Mad Mike
Well-known member
500ml should be plenty. Always get the smallest size that works for the job, an opened container of brake fluid has a short shelf life.
You should have enough to flush the clutch line too.
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Reverse brake bleeding question
- Thread starter Michael0124
- Start date
You should have enough to flush the clutch line too.
I finally got around to installing the braided lines. The old brake fluid looked like coffee, might actually have been the original stuff in there.
I installed the rear line first, very easy with reverse bleeding it took about 20 minutes to complete.
The fronts were a different story, the lines are the same length on both sides and don't use the factory clips so took some creative routing but I'm happy with how they look and fit.
Trying to reverse bleed the fronts gave me a case of tourettes lol, after 40 minutes I gave up and bleed them the traditional way, took about 3 or 4 tries before the trapped air sputtered out and I got a firm lever.
My only concern is how the rear line fits, it's a bit longer than the original one, so it has this double S look to it along the swing arm. No severe bends but could definitely be an inch or two shorter. I forgot to take a pic I can post one tonight.
I can pivot the fitting on the master cylinder side to take up some slack (would have to remove it and bleed again) but then it would route it a bit closer to the shock and more exposed to road debris flung up.
Aside from looking a bit weird any issue leaving it like that? There is good clearance around the wheel and exhaust now, and there is more than enough slack for suspension travel. Am I being ocd about the appearance?
I installed the rear line first, very easy with reverse bleeding it took about 20 minutes to complete.
The fronts were a different story, the lines are the same length on both sides and don't use the factory clips so took some creative routing but I'm happy with how they look and fit.
Trying to reverse bleed the fronts gave me a case of tourettes lol, after 40 minutes I gave up and bleed them the traditional way, took about 3 or 4 tries before the trapped air sputtered out and I got a firm lever.
My only concern is how the rear line fits, it's a bit longer than the original one, so it has this double S look to it along the swing arm. No severe bends but could definitely be an inch or two shorter. I forgot to take a pic I can post one tonight.
I can pivot the fitting on the master cylinder side to take up some slack (would have to remove it and bleed again) but then it would route it a bit closer to the shock and more exposed to road debris flung up.
Aside from looking a bit weird any issue leaving it like that? There is good clearance around the wheel and exhaust now, and there is more than enough slack for suspension travel. Am I being ocd about the appearance?
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