replacing handle bars

[5:12]

example1:
from drag bar to an ape hanger

- i would assume, depending on the length of the cables etc, you would need to re wire to accomodate the new handle bar (ie: would need longer cables)

example2
from ape to drag (let's say mini ape 12")

- would the cables need to be shortened? since the long cable can accomodate the shorter drag bar, how would this affect the functionality of the brake/clutch levers if the same cable length is used?!

how much length difference would it have to be for the cables to be adjusted accordingly?! (ie: if you only use a riser and raised it by an inch. cable wise it may not have any effects).

is there a suggested length/tension/slack for the cables with respect to handle bars?! i hope i made sense here thanks.

 

[mighty mouse]

It would depend on the make of bike you are changing the bars on.
Burly makes kits for harley that supply longer cables, throttle-clutch-brake
and wire for the turn-start-high beam switches.
Cables have fixed ends so shorting them not a good idea.
I have changed my 5" risers drag bars to 12" apes with 2" risers and use the kit no problem.

 

[Torren]

Any moderate change in handle bar height up or down will require new cables and wiring.

If your just adding a set of risers 2-4" you may be able to use the stock cables and wiring by re-routing the stock cables to gain more length. I know for my bike I can put on a set of 6" risers and use the stock cables. Anything more then that and I would have to get longer ones. If you change the cable routing, you need to make sure that there is no binding when you turn the bars both ways lock to lock. Also make sure that the cables and wiring are not stretched to tightly.

 

[Michael C]

Last year I put taller bars on my R1. I bought no names from china and had to source new brake lines and a clutch cable. A kit with all the bits you need would have been quicker and easier in the long run and not much more expensive

 

[DJM]

What make bike are we're talking about. Some brands (HD) have a lot more aftermarket options (Drag Specialties etc.)in terms of cable and brake line lengths. I went to drag bars on my sportster from the stock bars. About a 4 inch drop. I had to shorten my wire harnesses by tucking and tying them underneath the fuel tank and re-position the brake line out of the master cylinder.

 

[5:12]

If you change the cable routing, you need to make sure that there is no binding when you turn the bars both ways lock to lock. Also make sure that the cables and wiring are not stretched to tightly.

sorry, what did you mean by binding?

is there like a general rule of thumb for an ideal slack for the cable/wiring?!

thanks.