Recommendation needed - Rachet Set

M

Merkid

Well-known member
Can anyone recommend a rechargeable battery operated ratchet set ?

It would be needed for basic engine work so some usable torque is needed but not the industrial grade type.
 
Out of curiosity, why a powered set? Most folks use regular wrenches (I prefer T-handle wrenches with sockets, only use ratchets when necessary) and possibly a cordless drill for pulling out bolts after they've been loosened by hand. Powered tools don't offer a lot of feel, so it is very easy to under- or over-torque a fastener...
 
I've got two of the older style Milwaukee M12 ratchets. I think they put out 30ft-lbs, which for me seems more than enough for what they are. I don't like the newer style Milwaukee Fuel because of the size of the head, however they are faster and put out closer to 50ft-lbs. The cheaper brands like Ryobi use 18V batteries which are too big, and unless you are spending $500 for a Snap On/Matco, there isn't any other name brand options.
 
I work on small vintage outboard race engines and a lot of them have numerous 7/16 and 1/2 bolts so I don't need a lot of torque, just something that is easier on my wrists. I think a small battery version would be ideal.
 
Ave on youtube has taken apart a few of them, I think the Milkwaukee ones pass his tests the best.

Project Farm has probably done the same, but I can't stand his videos
 
On the Milwaukee brand, I understand that there are two versions of each of their models, one being for the usual hardware store versions for the DUI folks, the other being contractor grade.
 
Merkid said:
On the Milwaukee brand, I understand that there are two versions of each of their models, one being for the usual hardware store versions for the DUI folks, the other being contractor grade.
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Both are ok. As Conner said, the non-fuel heads are much smaller but they put out less torque. The Fuel head is much bigger. If my pneumatic ratchets ever die or I see the battery ones on super sale, I may get them but they dont make financial sense to me right now. The vast majority of the time I just use a hand ratchet, when confronted with lots of bolts I usually put sockets on a drill, occasionally pull out the air ratchets if required for access.
 
Merkid said:
I work on small vintage outboard race engines and a lot of them have numerous 7/16 and 1/2 bolts so I don't need a lot of torque, just something that is easier on my wrists. I think a small battery version would be ideal.
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hmmm merkid
as in mercury?
would make sense
can you make my 9.9 act like a 15hp? lol
cool wrenching
 
While I love my Milwaukee, I can't see myself buying anything else that runs on the M12 battery other than the Rocket work light. They just seem too expensive for what they are. The greatest benefit of the M12 system is the low profile small battery.

On the other hand, the Ryobi ONE+ lineup is well priced if you're OK with the bigger form factor of the 18v battery. I have a lot of their tools on my wish list, just waiting for the next project, and it's nice not to have to buy batteries for each new tool.
 
Relax said:
While I love my Milwaukee, I can't see myself buying anything else that runs on the M12 battery other than the Rocket work light. They just seem too expensive for what they are. The greatest benefit of the M12 system is the low profile small battery.

On the other hand, the Ryobi ONE+ lineup is well priced if you're OK with the bigger form factor of the 18v battery. I have a lot of their tools on my wish list, just waiting for the next project, and it's nice not to have to buy batteries for each new tool.
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I normally buy when atlas or IHL are having deals. Normally it is buy another drill/impact set and get a free bare tool and battery. I have far more drill/impacts than I need (but it is handy having them everywhere) but it works out that they are ~free compared to buying the bare tool and battery at normal price. If you want fuel tools, you normally have to buy fuel drill/impact, if you want regular tools, regular drill/impact works.
 
Merkid said:
I work on small vintage outboard race engines and a lot of them have numerous 7/16 and 1/2 bolts so I don't need a lot of torque, just something that is easier on my wrists. I think a small battery version would be ideal.
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:cool: Do you race on Beaver Lake
(the Beaver Lake next to 41 highway)

I picked up the cheapest smallest Milwaukee 1/4" hex impact driver you can buy,
not powerful enough to break anything buy it is fast and saves on the arthritis (y)
 
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A speed handle (crank shaft type) goes a long way. I have 1/4" and 3/8" drive.
I am impressed on how often I use them. Anything from fairing fasteners to automotive wheel lug nuts.
I could easily adapt my pneumatic ratchet, cordless drill or it's brother torque driver but the feel of the speed wrench just feels right.
The speed wrench is fast, reliable and I have never stripped or over torqued anything with this very simple tool.
 
ungoloth said:
A speed handle (crank shaft type) goes a long way. I have 1/4" and 3/8" drive.
I am impressed on how often I use them. Anything from fairing fasteners to automotive wheel lug nuts.
I could easily adapt my pneumatic ratchet, cordless drill or it's brother torque driver but the feel of the speed wrench just feels right.
The speed wrench is fast, reliable and I have never stripped or over torqued anything with this very simple tool.
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Interesting. I have them but almost never use them. My most often used 3/8" is flex head so I bend the handle up after breaking it free and spin it like the speed handle (obviously with very little available torque though so that doesn't work in every situation).
 
I bought a set of the Motion Pro T-Handle spinner drivers, one bit driver, one 1/4" and one 3/8". The spinner bit sounds like a gimmick, but it really helps get bolts in and out super quick. I use them all the time...

Spinner T-Handle II, 1/4" Drive - Motion Pro
 
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