Race 2008 GSXR1000 Won't Start After Crash

[Rossi86]

This bike flipped a couple of times at a crash last year, and to rebuild needed a new gas tank, subframe, exhaust can, right handle bar, and fairings. The battery ripped the seat off, it took out the leads, and the ECU took off the bike on its own too.

I replaced all the structural damaged parts and hooked everything as it was into the original ECU and harness. When I turn the bike on, it won't attempt to start and I get an FI msg with the flashing red light. Here's what I've done so far, each step separately with no luck:
-Replace Tip Over sensor, using one from my street bike
-Hook up another fuel pump
-Hook up the street bike's ECU, then the original since nothing changed

I used a paper clip to get the bike into dealer mode and I got multiple error codes using the original ECU:
1) C13 - IAP sensor
2) C14 - TP sensor
3) C15 - ECT sensor
4) C21 - IAT sensor
5) C22 - AP sensor
6) C23 - TO sensor

I disconnected all above sensors and blew them with an air compressor, absolutely no luck after reconnecting them, none of the codes came off. I disconnected and did the same for the main harness plug, and just about any plug I could find, no codes have come off so far.

So the fuel pump will prime, but the upper throttle valves do not open at all. I removed the Secondary Throttle Valve Actuator and cleaned the couplers, no luck; it pulses but doesn't open the upper throttle valves. I plan to try my street bike's STVA on tomorrow and see if that will fix any thing. Anyone have any other ideas in what I should be looking for?

Looks like RACE round #1 ain't happening this weekend

 

[GreyGhost]

Have you unplugged/replugged every connector? It sounds like it was a pretty violent crash, maybe some of the connectors aren't properly seated. (It sounds like you may already have done this).

You say the ECU disconnected itself from the bike? That can't have been good for the harness. I would test some leads to make sure they are still connected and you haven't broken the copper inside the insulation and/or depinned the connector.

 

[Rossi86]

All the sensors involved in the error codes have 1 or 2 wires of the same colour in common that eventually join 4 into 1 at the ECU plug terminal. I'm thinking I have a shorted circuit somewhere, I've pulled both types of wires out of the harness ~ 1 foot length and can see the 4 into 1 joints are fine, nothing looks suspicious so far. For all the codes I get the manual says: 1) Sensor voltage is higher than specified value; possible cause = sensor circuit shorted to VCC or ground circuit open.

 

[GreyGhost]

So without looking at a schematic, i would guees that that pin that splits into 4 supplies power to the sensors (or possibly ground as some of those sensors may be mounted in plastic). I would consult a wiring diagram and check continuity of the 4-1 wire (for both proper connection and absence of a short). If that wire is ground and is broken, it may solve all your codes with one simple repair.

 

[racepro171]

probably pulled wires out at ecu plug push real hard on harness into plug and ecu, if that works replace harness. you pulled wires so tight they may have broken internally.

 

[Rossi86]

probably pulled wires out at ecu plug push real hard on harness into plug and ecu, if that works replace harness. you pulled wires so tight they may have broken internally.

That would make sense and my life easier, but with the multimeter from the sensors' plugs to the ecu terminal plug both wires would show connectivity on all 6 sensors. Tried moving the wires around with the ignition on to see if the flashing FI warning would disappear, nothing happened. So far, I've replaced the stva, STP sensor, TO sensor, IAP Sensor, rectifier, fuel pump, ECU not a single code has come off, looks like the easy fix is to put another harness in...

 

[GreyGhost]

That would make sense and my life easier, but with the multimeter from the sensors' plugs to the ecu terminal plug both wires would show connectivity on all 6 sensors. Tried moving the wires around with the ignition on to see if the flashing FI warning would disappear, nothing happened. So far, I've replaced the stva, STP sensor, TO sensor, IAP Sensor, rectifier, fuel pump, ECU not a single code has come off, looks like the easy fix is to put another harness in...

Is there a chance the ecu was physically damaged? Are you supposed to get voltage on some.pins to drive these sensors? Can you bodge wire the sensor to the ecu bypassing the harness?

 

[Rossi86]

Read the whole manual section on FI today, and finally fixed it! All it was the ground Black/Brown wire, that all 6 sensors share, was slightly pulled off the ECU plug and wasn't making contact with the ECU. It was frustrating measuring voltage and continuity from end to end on all sensor plugs and ground on the frame, but not at the end of the plug. I just pushed the ground Black/Brown wire into the plug and it found its proper spot and it wouldn't come out anymore. All codes disappeared, bike is running fine. Now, the marathon starts to get it ready for CSBK this weeked

 

[racepro171]

 

[905]

Read the whole manual section on FI today, and finally fixed it! All it was the ground Black/Brown wire, that all 6 sensors share, was slightly pulled off the ECU plug and wasn't making contact with the ECU. It was frustrating measuring voltage and continuity from end to end on all sensor plugs and ground on the frame, but not at the end of the plug. I just pushed the ground Black/Brown wire into the plug and it found its proper spot and it wouldn't come out anymore. All codes disappeared, bike is running fine. Now, the marathon starts to get it ready for CSBK this weeked

Didn’t sound all fixed at the track. I did hear a lot of throttle going on in the pits along with a ton of sputtering. I’m thinking that there’s an issue?


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[Rossi86]

Didn’t sound all fixed at the track. I did hear a lot of throttle going on in the pits along with a ton of sputtering. I’m thinking that there’s an issue?


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I posted this before CSBK weekend, only ran the bike on the rear stand at home through the gears at no more than 5000 rpm. As soon as I went out on track during Friday practice at CSBK, I realized something was wrong right away, the bike would have no more power beyond 5000 rpm or so, I was like WTF just happened now did I just blow the motor or the clutch?! I didn't even finish that one lap, and that was my entire CSBK weekend

After more frustration and playing around in the pits with the throttle, I figured out the problem too late on Saturday. The secondary throttle valve actuator was not opening the STV so the bike was starving for air and power would cut out. STVA and STV position sensor were 2 of the codes in the initial problem, I had removed them to diagnose and eventually fix the electrical problem above. When you remove them, the STV is closed; when you install them, you should OPEN the STV and reset the STV position sensor with a voltmeter. This f-ing sentence on the manual would've saved my CSBK weekend, if I had read that far into the manual when reinstalling those 2 ?

I drove home on Saturday afternoon to get the STVA and STV position sensor off the street bike which I knew were fine. I put them on the race bike around 1 pm hoping to at least make it to qualifying, nope same problem! Here I realized, I was installing them incorrectly.

Oh well, after screwing up 3 bikes to swap the STVAs and STV position sensors into the race bike, this lesson was learned the hard way ? Thankfully Adrian came over and all 3 bikes have properly installed STVAs now, but have only ridden the street bike so far, which runs well. Need to do a track day soon to test the other two...