32/30 for me all the time.
Please check your TIRE PRESSURE NOW before you crash
- Thread starter -D-
- Start date
-D-
Banned
ahhh, that explains it.
I dun have know problems with underflated trires, I jus do this...yeee haww....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sXI9iqc5e2w
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sXI9iqc5e2w
Malks
Well-known member
Thanks for the reminder. My bike felt a little skittish along CR 9 yesterday on my way up to Meaford. I just thought it was due to the wet roads; however, when I checked the pressure this morning, the front was down to 24 while the rear was slightly better at around 30. Topped them off and will see how it feels tomorrow.
wearelopey
Well-known member
Wondering what your logic for having underinflated tires on the street? You guys losing traction a lot at the higher PSI? Higher safety margin because of increased grip at lower PSI?
I put as much emphasis as possible on smoothness, and am an intermediate street rider (whatever the hell that means), and run my michelin PR2's at recommended pressures without ever losing traction.
Isn't the argument that sport touring tires are all you need on the street? That tire tech is so good now that you wouldn't really need to lower the PSI that much?
I too used to run lower pressure but have had absolutely zero issues running at the PSI recommended for the bike I ride... I enjoy my tires lasting longer as well
Am I missing something here?
I put as much emphasis as possible on smoothness, and am an intermediate street rider (whatever the hell that means), and run my michelin PR2's at recommended pressures without ever losing traction.
Isn't the argument that sport touring tires are all you need on the street? That tire tech is so good now that you wouldn't really need to lower the PSI that much?
I too used to run lower pressure but have had absolutely zero issues running at the PSI recommended for the bike I ride... I enjoy my tires lasting longer as well
Am I missing something here?
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Lickety-Split
Well-known member
Found my tires were down about 6-8 psi last week too. Could feel the difference when riding.
I agree with checking what the bike manual says vs. what the tire says. A combination of the two seems to make sense. Rider & bike weight should come into the equation too. I'm a 210lb guy on a 500lb VFR, I'll likely need a few more psi than a 120lb guy on a 400lb cbr with essentially the same tires, correct?
I agree with checking what the bike manual says vs. what the tire says. A combination of the two seems to make sense. Rider & bike weight should come into the equation too. I'm a 210lb guy on a 500lb VFR, I'll likely need a few more psi than a 120lb guy on a 400lb cbr with essentially the same tires, correct?
-D-
Banned
Yes you are
You're missing poser bullsh*t. Tire engineers knwo what they are talking about, the rumor-mill idiot-phone and the internet, not so much.
redridernl
Well-known member
You do realize that this applies to you as well, right?
Way too low? My bike manual calls for 28/28 and my tires say 42 max. I keep them both just north of 30. Feels fine to me.
"Max" molded into the sidewall of the tire means "past this point on brand new rubber, tire blowout can happen". If max is 42 and you inflate it to 42, you're ok rolling out of your driveway. Then when you start heating them up on the highway and they start going up to 45-50, then kaboom + gws posting.
Don't trust gas station pumps at all. I remember the digital ones Shell or another big chain experimented with once. They are long gone now. I loved them until I came across one that was mis-calibrated upward by 10 psi. 10!!
Don't trust your handheld gauges either. They can lose calibration if you drop them or handle them roughly.
If you have 1 gauge, then get a second. If both give the same reading then put one away. Chances are pretty decent both weren't roughly handled. If they differ, then you will need to get a third different one to see which of the two is off. You can still use the off one just need to mentally compensate for the number shown.
Don't lower your pressure to "drive better" in cold conditions either. It won't give you better traction and you can help damage them.
Don't trust gas station pumps at all. I remember the digital ones Shell or another big chain experimented with once. They are long gone now. I loved them until I came across one that was mis-calibrated upward by 10 psi. 10!!
Don't trust your handheld gauges either. They can lose calibration if you drop them or handle them roughly.
If you have 1 gauge, then get a second. If both give the same reading then put one away. Chances are pretty decent both weren't roughly handled. If they differ, then you will need to get a third different one to see which of the two is off. You can still use the off one just need to mentally compensate for the number shown.
Don't lower your pressure to "drive better" in cold conditions either. It won't give you better traction and you can help damage them.
Snobike Mike
Banned
Where did you get that idea? The Max tire pressure is generally the max "cold" tire pressure.
So? As I see it, when it heats up from use it will be higher than the cold max.
Snobike Mike
Banned
yes, because it will no longer be cold tire temp as the tire warms up as used. If however the ambient air temp rises, then yes you should reset, just like when it gets colder you should resent. So once the tire is used and warms up, it will be warm tire temp and the mfg is giving you the cold tire temp. Furthermore, the cold tire temp is for max load. if you aren't at the max load rating of the tire you can run lower temp cold.
In any event, a few PSI above cold max is generally not going to cause a "GWS" event as you described.
