Europe 2013 - 13 day loop through the Dolomites, Alps and Vercors | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Europe 2013 - 13 day loop through the Dolomites, Alps and Vercors

Day 7

Day 7: Rencurel, France to Valloire, France (Vercors to the Route des Grandes Alpes)
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Click HERE for a more detailed view of our GPS tracks in Google Maps.
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An idyllic setting for a great stay at Le Marronnier.
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Last to leave Le Marronnier in the morning. We're heading through more of the Vercors and then making our way back East to the Route des Grandes Alpes. The owner of Marronier warns us of a detour on our way to Grenoble, Gorge de la Bourne would be closed for repairs.
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Megan loving her extra warm, extra pink socks my dad gave her pre-trip. :D
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A 15 minute ride or so from Le Marronnier we arrive at this spot - Canyon Des Ecouges.
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Megan climbs down for a better view of the river.
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We head through the Tunnel des Ecouges (below Col de Romeyère), a very cool experience. Apparently cyclists need to legally have a light to go through here as it's so long, not perfectly straight, and there's no way to see the end… it's completely pitch black.
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Arriving at the beautiful Gorges du Nant.
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Megan and a cyclist (up ahead) looking over the edge.
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Riding to the other end of du Nant, we take a look back. With the cyclist for reference, you can see just how narrow the roads are.
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Making our way down the mountain, we stop at a hairpin...
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...For this great view overlooking the Vercors.
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Riding back towards Gorges de la Bourne (from yesterday) as we head for Grenoble. As expected, half way through de la Bourne, we'd hit a detour and have to head South and then back North again to Grenoble. Gas is running low on the 1200, and fingers are crossed that we'll make it in time!
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Reaching a gas station in Grenoble, we're 22kms till empty… closer than we'd have liked... but we made it. :D
 
Day 7: Continued...

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We find a Triumph Dealership in Grenoble. Leaving Barcelonnette the day before we noticed our bikes were leaking antifreeze when they were started up from cold (my 1200 leaking much more than the 800). We stopped by the dealership to get a top up and buy a jug of antifreeze so we could top up on the road as needed… the last thing we need is an overheated engine. :eek1
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Checking out Triumph Grenoble while waiting for the bike to be serviced… nice to see Steve Mcqueen is now selling Triumphs. :D
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Lunch in Grenoble next to the dealership.
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We'd pass straight by Le Bourg D'oisans and L'Alpe d'Huez along the 1091… no time to take a detour up these mountain passes as the sun is getting low. We stop at the entrance of the Tunnel des Ardoisières to get some photos of the view behind us as we head to Col du Galibier.
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Arriving at Col du Galibier. We'd pass by a scene of about 10 sportbike riders and an ambulance off to the side of the road. There's too many people to see much of anything, but it's clear a rider went down. Hoping he or she is alright, it serves as a chilling reminder of how dangerous these passes can be - especially if you push your limits.
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Reaching the summit as the sun sets over Galibier.

From here we'd ride down Galibier and stop at the first town we enter, which would be Valloire. The daylight fades away and the air gets cold, quick.
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We'd find a nice spot at Hotel Patchwork Altitude.

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Exploring the town on our way to dinner after another great day of riding. Next up, we're heading North towards Switzerland with more high passes along the Route des Grandes Alpes!

Day 7 riding video:

[video=vimeo;98140124]http://vimeo.com/98140124[/video]
 
Day 8

Day 8: Valloire, France to Cluses, France (Route des Grandes Alpes)
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Click HERE for a more detailed view of our GPS tracks in Google Maps.
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First stop after leaving the hotel is to grab breakfast and lunch at the Carrefour in Valloire.
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Not far from Valloire, we spot the 19th Century forts of the Barrière de l'Esseillon from the road. We stop to have a look at fort Victor-Emmanuel.
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Megan gets her morning coffee across the way within the walls of fort Redoute Marie-Thérèse.
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Heading along the D902 and passing through Lanslebourg-Mont-Cenis we stop to get our bearings.
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Opting for the road less travelled as riders pass by on our way to Col de L'Iseran.
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Arriving at Col de L'Iseran.
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Looking back at the valley we rode through to get here.
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Turns out we would stop at the perfect time to watch a paraglider take flight. He flies above us for a nice photo op before he disappears out of view.

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The view from Megan's camera.
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Stopping ahead for more views as we work our way up.
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Near the top the terrain changes to rock.
 
Day 8: Continued...

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The view looking back at the South side of Col de L'Iseran.
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Past the summit and heading North to the other side of Col de L'Iseran.
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The North side of the mountain. Megan added for scale. :D
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Reaching the bottom and stopping next to Chevril lake, the lake we could see in the distance while at the top of L'Iseran.
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We find a picnic table by the side of the road and stop for lunch.
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Riding between the valleys towards Cormet de Roselend.
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The sweeping view of Cormet de Roselend.
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Looking down on Roselend Lake a short while later.
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The view behind, with the massive rock dwarfing the Triumph.
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Pitstop in Beaufort to get some Beaufort cheese for the road.
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Heading towards and then eventually through Col des Aravis with some light intermittent rain on the way.
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Views from Col de la Colombière as we head to Cluses, France.

Arriving in Cluses, we're wanting to push on but it starts to rain and some fatigue is starting to kick in - I can only imagine what my father feels like. We stay at the National Hotel, which would be our least appealing stay of the trip (hence the lack of pictures). It was a chain hotel (or at least felt like one), it's generic, and Cluses definitely had a more built-up feel than the smaller villages we'd previously been through and preferred.

We're more or less at the end of the Route des Grandes Alps and it's been a journey to remember. Tomorrow, Switzerland lies ahead as we travel North-West. Lots more beautiful scenery and great memories as we venture on.

Day 8 riding video:
Another one of my personal favourites. :D

[video=vimeo;98210903]http://vimeo.com/98210903[/video]
 
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Day 9

Day 9: Cluses, France to Thun, Switzerland
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Click HERE for a more detailed view of our GPS tracks in Google Maps.
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After a slow start to the rainy morning, we get on the bikes and head North-West towards Switzerland. Despite the heavy rain, there's some good views still to be had.
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Approaching the Swiss border we stop in Chatel, France. It's a wet and cold day, and we're all pretty tired. My dad's been going on about the natural hot springs in Switzerland (better known around here as 'Les Bains'), and if we were going to do it, today was the best day for it. We stop by a restaurant and ask about the nearest hot springs. He tells us there's one en route in Val d'Illiez, about 15 minutes away... right after we cross the Swiss border, and we'd only have to detour less than 5 minutes in the opposite direction. Score! :D

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With the plan set, we're happy to hang out in a dry place for little longer. :D
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Passing into Switzerland as we ride down through the clouds on Route Forestiere.
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Arriving at Les Bains du Val d'Illiez Thermal Park.
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Spending a couple hours there, it's just what we need. :D We'd have lunch here before heading back out on the road.

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Arriving in Villar-sur-Ollon, the main roads are closed. We use the GPS to guide us through the narrow side streets, until we end up here… another road block. As we come to a stop, we see a couple vintage race cars pass by us. We get off the bikes and wonder around the crowds to figure out what the event was that we'd just stumbled upon. Turns out it's the Ollons-Villars 6th Annual Historic Hillclimb! Very cool.
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A few more cars pass by before the barriers are moved to the side, revealing the next group up - race bikes!
 
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Day 9: Continued...

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I walk up the road and see the old race bikes lined up as they await their cue to go. I wonder through the line-up for the best shots I could get. I get the feeling I'm not supposed to be here, as the fans/onlookers are all crowded in behind a row barricades - looks like our detour through the side streets landed us in the best location with VIP access. :D

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Dad's chilling, resting his leg out on someones front porch (alongside the friendly homeowners :D), while I'm utterly confused trying to process detour directions in French.
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We find our way out and get back on the road as the rain comes down heavy. Not the ideal day to take photos, trying to keep the camera lens free of rain drops for a clear shot was a real nuisance.

I'm definitely glad we stopped here though… just as we're ready to take off a beautiful McLaren passes us from behind.
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Approaching Thun, Switzerland we stop alongside a river.
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Megan striking a pose on the bridge over the river. :D

From here we'd enter Thun, and start looking for a place to stay. It's Switzerland and we know the prices are going to be high, so we figure we'd head away from the hotels on the lake, as we're sure they'd be charging a premium. We come across a couple hotels that are almost completely empty, but the prices are just crazy high… one place wanted around 250 euros per room, and we'd need two of them! :huh No thanks. Almost out of options we head back down to the lake and find a spot, Stella del Lago, right on the water. It's around 150 euros… sold!
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Megan drying out our backup written directions… turns out the tank bag isn't as waterproof as it claims to be. :D

Tomorrow we're heading for Switzerland's high mountain passes on our way to Andermatt - lots of unfinished business there after missing a couple highlights during our trip through the area the year before.

Day 9 riding video:

[video=vimeo;98262406]http://vimeo.com/98262406[/video]
 
Day 10

Day 10: Thun, Switzerland to Andermatt, Switzerland
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Click HERE for a more detailed view of our GPS tracks in Google Maps.
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Megan's morning walk through Thun, Switzerland.
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The bikes are loaded up in front of Stella del Lago. More rain in Switzerland, just like last year - we've still yet to see Switzerland dry. If we had the luxury of time, we'd postpone riding the high mountain passes for a clearer day… but time's of the essence so we push on for what would be a great, but tiring day.
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Riding along lake Thun as we leave, I spot a nice view in the rear-view mirror.
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Megan spots the calf and we stop to feed the cows. :D
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Arriving at Aar Gorge… We'd just found out about this place the night before while online at Stella del Lago.
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It's a pretty decent hike from where the bikes are parked, but my dad insists on walking it… with a broken ankle.
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The views are great, despite the rain.
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As we walk back to the bikes, we see the biggest snail we've ever seen! They're not this big back home. :D
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Riding on, we reach the familiar sights of the Grimsel pass. Last year we'd been through it, but this side (the North side) was in the clouds and visibility was limited.
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Climbing up higher we have a look back at the view we missed out on last year.
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As Megan described it, the landscape of Grimsel is harsh and dramatic... the chiseled rocks engulfed by the clouds. The wet, cold conditions only add to that sentiment. We pass up and over the summit, the visibility for the descent down the South side is poor this time around as we ride through the clouds. It worked out nicely in that sense, we're able to get the views we missed the year before. This year though, the Grimsel was more kind to us... the ride to the summit wasn't nearly as nerve racking as the year before when we passed through snow and ice!

We'd head down and then up the start of the Furka pass to visit the site near the Hotel Belvedere that I'd been kicking myself for missing last year... the Rhone Glacier. We were so close the year before, turns out we parked the bike in the parking lot next to the gift shop that gives access to the hidden glacier… and we had no idea it was even there!
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Walking the trail to Rhone Glacier with a beautiful view of the valley we rode in from - the start of the Furka and end of the Grimsel in clear view. To the right, you can see the original pathway the glacier had carved when it went over the edge of the mountain... now receding significantly as it's melting away.
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The glacier sits just below the clouds.
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Approaching the entrance as hikers retreat the opposite direction along the trail after finishing their visit.
 
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Day 10: Continued...

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Walking through a glacier is a pretty awesome experience. :D
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Coming across ice wine barrels. My dad stops and catches some melting glacier water as it drips from the ceiling onto his tongue, cleverly suggesting that it's the oldest water he's ever drank. :D
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Heading out and walking back up the trail. The smooth rocks revealing the original path of the glacier… now melted away to a fraction of its original size.

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Pulled this from Google - You can see how the Rhone Glacier has retreated up the mountain in just over 100 years.
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Arriving back at the gift shop where Megan is waiting for us.
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She's borrowed some dry gloves in the gift shop to warm up while we're out. :D It's been one heck of a cold day of riding.
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Having rode the Furka the year before, we switch up the route and head the short way back down the Furka and arrive at the Nufenen pass on our way to Andermatt.
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About to disappear into the clouds as we climb towards the summit.
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As we reach the summit, our hands are in a lot of pain… intense pins and needles all around. Megans having it the worst as her fingers begin to swell up and she starts to lose feeling in them! We find a pocket between the clouds on our way down Nufenen, and stop by the roadside to warm our hands off the heat of the engine.

Our waterproof, thickly lines gloves are completely drenched, and the plastic gloves were wearing underneath them (to stay dry) seem to be insulating the cold!

From here we'd continue East and then North on the Gottard pass.

Aiming to take Tremola, we accidentally end up taking Rt 2 instead. As we climb the floating bridge (detached from the mountain side) towards the clouds, it's almost surreal - the highway to heaven I call it. :D
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We stop one last time to capture the view from where we came. From here, it's too wet and cold to stop for more pictures. We'll leave it to the video for the rest of the coverage!

We'd arrive in Andermatt to a ghost town pretty much (motorcycle wise). There isn't one motorcycle in view, completely contrasting our experience from last year. As we stop by the first hotel, the front desk clerk tells us there's snow coming overnight, and that since we're on motorcycles, we need to get to lower ground! Just great...

It's getting late, and we're all exhausted and in need of the warmth of the indoors. Just as we're trying to figure out what to do, a fellow rider who's visiting the Swiss Alps (this time for a hiking trip), mentions he's staying at a hotel up the street - the cheapest rate in Andermatt and that it has underground parking for the bikes.

Conflicted, we take his suggestion and head to the Alpenhotel Schlüssel, where we get our two rooms for the night. Here the hotel owner also warns us about snow… Fearful for my fathers situation (the last thing he needs is riding through snow with a broken leg), I've got strong mixed feelings about our decision to stay in Andermatt with the potential heavy snow fall overnight.

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Watching as the sun sets over Andermatt. Later, I'd wake up in the middle of the night and look out the window to see snow beginning to fall. Only time would tell, the morning sun the next day would reveal what we'd be up against. Fingers crossed!

Day 10 riding video:

[video=vimeo;98346775]http://vimeo.com/98346775[/video]
 
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Day 11

Day 11: Andermatt, Switzerland to Wolfenschiessen, Switzerland
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Click HERE for a more detailed view of our GPS tracks in Google Maps.
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Snow!! Okay, maybe a bit dramatic...
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A pulled back view shows a more accurate morning view off the balcony. :D

All is good, We're at just a low enough altitude (1,444m) that there wasn't enough snow to accumulate on the road.

On last years trip while stopping in Interlaken, an old British gentleman highly suggested the Grimsel and Furka over the Susten pass (which we were originally planning to hit). After he'd mentioned that a classic James Bond car scene was filmed on Furka and that there was a glacier to see, there wasn't much deliberation. :D This year, the plan was to actually SEE the glacier on Furka (mission accomplished from yesterday) and then today, loop back West via the Susten pass for the first time.

The bad news - Every pass around Andermatt is now closed due to the heavy snow overnight… Grimsel, Furka, Susten, etc.

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Drying out the gloves before heading up for breakfast.
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Over breakfast I go online to check out the live web cams of the Swiss Alps. I come across this view of Susten pass. This pretty much confirms that the pass won't be open again for a good while. We'd need to start figuring out a detour.
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We hit the road and ride down the Gotthard pass, the only way out besides the toll highway.
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Heading North towards Lake Lucerne.
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We take the East side of the lake as we head North. It's a beautiful road with lots of sweeping turns and not too much traffic… and, the sun is out. :D
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Finding a spot in Lucern to stop for our lunch...
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A nice spot right by the lake.

We continue riding alongside the lake, as it wraps West and then South… We'd heard great things about a much lesser know pass, the Acherli pass. Even with Susten pass now closed, we're adamant to still make it to this pass.
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By the road near the foothills of the Acherli pass.
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Starting our climb. The roads get extremely narrow, and there's gravel too... we slow down the pace as we make our way up.
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The trees lining the road lessen to the point where we have a beautiful open view as we look back with lake Sarnen in the distance.
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That pose! :D
 
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Day 11: Continued...

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Onwards we go approaching the summit. The tight turns and narrow roads make for some great riding and scenery. The entire way up we didn't pass a single car, only a cyclist making his way up the hill. This is my kind of road.
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I remember trying to route this pass into the GPS pre-trip… it was a real challenge. No wonder we didn't pass any riders, only locals here.
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Reaching the East side of the summit.
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On the way down, there's a row of cows blocking the road. Some move out of the way while others stare us down while staying put… tough cows. :D
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Seems like around every corner there's a beautiful view.
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Working our way down, we're near the bottom. There's a row of hotels there but they're all closed for the season. They tell us to head for Wolfenschiessen, a small town about 10km South.
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Finding a great stay along the tracks at Hotel Ochsen. We park next to a group of riders all the way from the Netherlands, and exchange our stories over dinner.

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Having one of the best meals of the trips. :D

There's a big day ahead of us tomorrow as we head through Liechtenstein and into the Austrian Alps.

Day 11 riding video:

[video=vimeo;98445883]http://vimeo.com/98445883[/video]
 
Re: Day 11: Continued...

Hey WOW very nice travel report. Reminds me of my honeymoon trip in 2012. Serbia-Croatia-Slovenia-Italy-France and back. I would appreciate if you can share with me the program(s) you used to edit the video and the music list is amazing. Once I know the program(s) I will make myself edit all the video and post it. Thank you
 
Re: Day 11: Continued...

Great pictures! They're awesome. Looks like a fantastic trip, except for your dad injuring his ankle. Glad he's better.

Thanks for sharing!
 
That looks like an incredible trip. I would love to do something like that but fear I'd never come back :D
Amazing photos. Thanks for the share
 
Re: Day 11: Continued...

Thank you! Your 2012 trip sounds incredible. I used iMovie 10 to edit the videos, it's as easy as it gets in terms of video editing software. I'll put together a playlist at the end of the post. Look forward to your video!
 
Great pictures! They're awesome. Looks like a fantastic trip, except for your dad injuring his ankle. Glad he's better.

Thanks for sharing!

That looks like an incredible trip. I would love to do something like that but fear I'd never come back :D
Amazing photos. Thanks for the share

Appreciate it. I had a hard time leaving as well... the last day is always a downer on a trip like this.
 

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