Yes ... and getting to that spark plug hole involves removing all the same stuff around it on the bike that you have to remove in order to get the valve cover off.
So I assume the bike does not come with a plug wrench?
:| seems strange, if I can get a wrench on the plug I think I should be able to get a compression tester in the hole.
,,, & you can build a compression tester plug out of an old sparkplug
... or do you mean things like removing the seat and tank :/
so the dealer did a recall, and this caused high oil consumption?
engine ran low on oil after and needed a new piston?
maybe I'm reading this wrong?
if the engine was rebuilt and had a new piston (and there would have been other stuff) installed
the valves would have been set upon re-assembly
so if this is what happened, OP
and the rebuild was by a competent tech
you are safe to reset the clock on your valve set from that point forward
regardless how many km are on the chassis
so the dealer did a recall, and this caused high oil consumption?
engine ran low on oil after and needed a new piston?
maybe I'm reading this wrong?
if the engine was rebuilt and had a new piston (and there would have been other stuff) installed
the valves would have been set upon re-assembly
so if this is what happened, OP
and the rebuild was by a competent tech
you are safe to reset the clock on your valve set from that point forward
regardless how many km are on the chassis
Why would the valves have been touched? If honda was paying for bottom end only, why would the shop waste time on checking the valves yet alone actually adjusting them? I agree that it is a good idea, but obviously good ideas were not part of this recall or Honda would just be swapping in reman engines instead of picking and choosing parts to replace.
so the dealer did a recall, and this caused high oil consumption?
engine ran low on oil after and needed a new piston?
maybe I'm reading this wrong?
if the engine was rebuilt and had a new piston (and there would have been other stuff) installed
the valves would have been set upon re-assembly
so if this is what happened, OP
and the rebuild was by a competent tech
you are safe to reset the clock on your valve set from that point forward
regardless how many km are on the chassis
You might do the valve setup if you rebuilt the motor, no dealer mechanic is doing a 2 hour operation unless he's instructed to do so AND paid. Sadly rebuilding a bottom end and cylinder would not necessitate checking or adjusting valves.
If it was a factory rebuild (swap) then you could reset the clock. Factory rebuilds have all tolerance in spec.
Radiator needs to be moved out of the way at a minimum, and possibly taken out of the bike (which means draining the cooling system).
Moving the radiator out of the way means that all of the bodywork panels on both sides of it need to be removed first.
This is not a *huge* job ... but it's a bigger job than just pulling the spark plug cap (which you can't reach until you do all of the above) ... and after you have pulled the spark plug cap, removing 2 bolts will have the valve cover off.
With a DOHC shim-under-bucket design, removing the camshafts and re-installing them afterwards will not affect the valve clearance, and the job that was done does not necessitate disassembling the cylinder head ... the valves, shims, and buckets can all stay together, thus no need to check the valve clearances at the time of replacing cylinder and piston.
And yes, a diligent person working on their own stuff ought to take the opportunity to check the valve clearances (I would) because it will never be easier than when the engine is on the bench ... but a dealer mechanic paid a flat rate for doing the job, therefore the faster the job gets done the more their effective hourly rate is, is not going to do it.
There's all sorts of ways that a cylinder and piston re-installation could lead to oil consumption.
... has 2 press fit metal crank bearings, those would go first if it was starved for oil pressure, everything else is on rollers, you would be hard pressed to destroy the piston seeing as it does not rely on oil pressure for lubrication.
Agreed. I was just thinking that the most important "asset" the OP might have right now is a good laser printer to take this entire thread (or choice portions of it) to the shop who did the work and ask them to fill in the missing answers!.....or else.
I did the recall I’m convinst that’s why I ended up need to do a rebuild. Basicly my bike was consuming more oil then normal end I ended up with low oil in the engine and my piston got burnt. So I ended up geting a engine rebuild
If there was no change to parts, just removed cams to get the timing chain off there would be no reason to do a valve service clearance -- it goes back thee way it came out. No reset on the valve check clock.
OP , just take it and get the valves checked, = or - your at the point in the life of the motor to have them checked. You can be 95% sure nobody set them beyond how they were when the engine came out of the bike for the rebuild. Thats just how life is.
If you put 5-8000km on the bike after the rebuild you can go back and yell at the dealer, or yell at the clouds. You'll get them same results.
This part is a fallacy:
"my bike was consuming more oil then normal end I ended up with low oil in the engine and my piston got burnt"
that would lay down a smoke screen for miles, he would know it.
The recall relating to the bottom end bearing does make perfect sense, if you experience low oil pressure, that's not low oil,
one day it just goes clunk clunk clunk.
Nope same one. Obviously a number of body panels would have already been removed to get it to that state (and not all of it has to come off to do what needs to be done here). At this point, you have to move the radiator in order to get to the top of the engine. I don't know if there's enough slack in the hoses to get the valve cover out without actually REmoving the radiator ... on a 125, there is enough slack to just barely sneak it through the gap. If there isn't, radiator has to come off, cooling system has to be drained. You miiiight be able to get the spark plug out from the top ... but the fuel tank has to come off to do that, and on the later model cbr125, you have to remove the side fairing panels and the seats and the trim panels around the fuel tank first before you can remove it. It's less work to go in from the front, moving the radiator, and leave the fuel tank in place.
This is not built like a dirt bike ...
Late model Honda street bikes have fairing panels that are a real pain. You can remove every screw in sight and be no closer to having it apart. It's all held together with clips and tabs in addition to that. If you know the sequence of disassembly, and if the bike in question has not been crashed (i.e. all the tabs and push-pins and such, all still line up!) it's not that bad, but someone looking at the bike in front of them for the first time, is not going to like the task ahead of them ...
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