Chain removal... grrrr....

[JohnnyP636]

You figured "the small one was more likely to push the rivet out of the old chain"? This doesn't sound like you had a handle on the physics involved. In general, the tool is setup in a way to shear off the riveting of the pin that you are trying to break out of the chain. The pin should be very close in diameter to the pin of chain link you are removing. Thinking that the smaller one will clear better through the hole is wrong. Anyhow... Using C-clamp type chain breaker, you will notice there is a C-clamp having a threaded end and a smaller, non-threaded hole at the other end. The threaded end receives the special guide bolt which is also threaded to receive the pressure bolt. The guide bolt must be fitted with the right sized anvil which also has a hole to receive the dual ended pressure pin. Back out the pressure bolt, and snug the guide bolt to the link you want to break. The anvil should be cupped in a way to allow alignment as the raised part of the existing riveted pin your are trying to break out, is received by the cupping of the anvil. Once all is aligned and snug, begin to press the pin out by tightening down the pressure bolt -- all the while being absolute sure that the guide bolt remains snug and aligned. I can't stress enough the importance of zero tolerance on alignment and precise fitment of this tool while pressing/breaking the pin out. If anything is allowed to be loose, slipping will cause the whole job to go awry, and likely you will need to buy a replacement pin for your tool. The pin being pushed through should be slowly shearing off the riveting material of the linked pin on the chain. And going nowhere else but through. Rushing this job is usually a mistake. Good luck. Cheers!

Here is a pretty detailed explanation... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9vhZTQDx8i0

LOL in that video at 6:52 seconds a message comes up that says
"UPDATE I always grind the pin off now...It puts less strees on the tool...Just take time with your alignement"

bahahahhahaha In the video he even says "this is only my 2nd time doing this" Guess he found out later when he actually had some experience, that busting out the grinder for 30 seconds will extend the life of this tool....Because he also says this in the comments

"cool thanks for watching. I now recommend you grind the head of the pin off first......it's a lot of strain for the tool otherwise and may lead to damage. Mine broke and I had to get another."

LOL!

Maybe next time before he makes a video telling people how to do things, he should do it more then twice before he becomes a professional chain breaking teacher

 

[JohnnyP636]

You figured "the small one was more likely to push the rivet out of the old chain"? This doesn't sound like you had a handle on the physics involved. In general, the tool is setup in a way to shear off the riveting of the pin that you are trying to break out of the chain. The pin should be very close in diameter to the pin of chain link you are removing. Thinking that the smaller one will clear better through the hole is wrong. Anyhow... Using C-clamp type chain breaker, you will notice there is a C-clamp having a threaded end and a smaller, non-threaded hole at the other end. The threaded end receives the special guide bolt which is also threaded to receive the pressure bolt. The guide bolt must be fitted with the right sized anvil which also has a hole to receive the dual ended pressure pin. Back out the pressure bolt, and snug the guide bolt to the link you want to break. The anvil should be cupped in a way to allow alignment as the raised part of the existing riveted pin your are trying to break out, is received by the cupping of the anvil. Once all is aligned and snug, begin to press the pin out by tightening down the pressure bolt -- all the while being absolute sure that the guide bolt remains snug and aligned. I can't stress enough the importance of zero tolerance on alignment and precise fitment of this tool while pressing/breaking the pin out. If anything is allowed to be loose, slipping will cause the whole job to go awry, and likely you will need to buy a replacement pin for your tool. The pin being pushed through should be slowly shearing off the riveting material of the linked pin on the chain. And going nowhere else but through. Rushing this job is usually a mistake. Good luck. Cheers!

Here is a pretty detailed explanation... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9vhZTQDx8i0

LOL in that video at 6:52 seconds a message comes up that says
"UPDATE I always grind the pin off now...It puts less strees on the tool...Just take time with your alignement"

bahahahhahaha In the video he even says "this is only my 2nd time doing this" Guess he found out later when he actually had some experience, that busting out the grinder for 30 seconds will extend the life of this tool....

He also says this in the comments
"cool thanks for watching. I now recommend you grind the head of the pin off first......it's a lot of strain for the tool otherwise and may lead to damage. Mine broke and I had to get another."

LOL!

 

[DoubleJ]

Chain breaker can be gotten at Princess Auto.

 

[toysareforboys]

Hope your EXTRA careful with that tool......
http://www.google.ca/search?q=angle grinder injury&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi&biw=1440&bih=746

This does NOT look like the safest angle grinder blade/disc I've ever seen:

-Jamie M.

 

[rmemedic]

Got time to do it today, finished the job thanks guys!!
The job itself didn't take too much time, but the fact that I decided to clean everything up (road grime, brake dust, the black goop flung off the chain) it took me a little bit longer.

Ground off the rivet heads, used my "jaw" type chain breaker to seperate the chain.

Time for the test ride!