Can u trust clip links over rivet?

I had a clip fail me after 5000K. Punched a chunk out of my crankcase.

The safety wire is new to me. Awesome tip. After some searching I found:

Would it be a bad idea to do both sides? That way even if the clip falls or breaks, the other side that holds the chain together won't come out.

attachment.php
 
daught said:
I had a clip fail me after 5000K. Punched a chunk out of my crankcase.

The safety wire is new to me. Awesome tip. After some searching I found:

Would it be a bad idea to do both sides? That way even if the clip falls or breaks, the other side that holds the chain together won't come out.

attachment.php
Click to expand...


I'm not sure what you mean. I've only seen safety wire used to hold the clip in place against the side plate (as shown in your diagram)
 
sircastic said:
I'm not sure what you mean. I've only seen safety wire used to hold the clip in place against the side plate (as shown in your diagram)
Click to expand...

In order for a clip to be removed it has to spread open, wiring it around the width will keep it from being possible to spread without cutting the wire off..Therefore in theory it will hold it in place and prevent it from being able to come off unless the wire is cut off..So its not really about holding it to the plate, its getting wire around the width...
 
Last edited:
Michael C said:
I tried a link when a rivet was not avaiable, as a stop gap measure near then end of a very long road trip. Later that day while passing a pickup at 145 kph the chain came apart at the clip. One end wrapped itself around the rear wheel and sprocket and locked it up solid so it no longer turned. The other end of the chain punched a twonie sized hole in the crankcase. Rivets are better
Click to expand...

I;m sure you're glad it punched the crankcase and not your legs.

Rivets for me
 
Michael C said:
I tried a link when a rivet was not avaiable, as a stop gap measure near then end of a very long road trip. Later that day while passing a pickup at 145 kph the chain came apart at the clip. One end wrapped itself around the rear wheel and sprocket and locked it up solid so it no longer turned. The other end of the chain punched a twonie sized hole in the crankcase. Rivets are better
Click to expand...
Everyone should take note of this guy's experience. I'm a licensed technician with almost 30 years of experience. Clip links have no place on streetbikes PERIOD! Not all chains are sold with a soft nosed pein link or a rivet style link but they should be. Back in the 80's chains were nowhere near as strong as the metals and processes used to make chains now and I saw them outright fail at speed a few times! very scary! (a drive chain from another bike sliding down the road at night throwing sparks all over the place while you're trying to pick a path around it is not fun!). Many chain manufacturers offer a pein or rivet style link separately for less than $10, you should order one immediately and have it installed as soon as it shows up. Masterlink clips can come off for a few reasons: installed in the wrong direction, sharp side should face outwards, chain stretch, serious lack of lubricant (increases shock forces acting on links), misalignment of axle, incorrect chain tension, other misaligned or failing parts. As with any of the main chassis components of a motorcycle, most people likely shouldn't mess with them unless they are double damn sure of what they're doing, if they're not, then stick to working on off-road bikes until you know enough. Most decent streetbikes made in the last 20 years will go well over 100 mph, not a good place for "trial and error" repairs to be attempted. If you don't know or have the "expensive special tool" that's gotta be the first thing to tell you "hands off". Road racers are a different story, their equipment receives different maintenance and they're better equipped to deal with problems, like actually wearing REAL protection all the time when riding.
 
Last edited:
found a clip link that has been installed on my chain... no safety wire installed... know. i would like to add on said safety wire + LUBE, can i use just any steel wire to do this + white lithium grease? Or is it really that big of a deal? im certain the link has been installed correctly, especially since it hasnt failed at 175km/h. Im currently thinking about changing both sprockets and chain all together when i get a chance, but dont have the funds for that just yet, so im going to need to make this one a temporary fix for about 1000-3000 km's or so. What do you guys think? btw the whole chain and sprocket combo is about $120, and i need to find the time and resources to do the installation properly :D

-Armen
 
If all you're going to do is replace the chain (with one having a rivet link ...) in only another couple thousand kilometers anyway, don't bother doing anything other than keep a close eye on it.

Regarding clip versus rivet, rivet if there is any choice in the matter. If you have a small bike that uses a 428 chain and there is no retrofit to a 520 chain (many 250cc and smaller bikes are in this situation) - I have yet to find a 428 chain that uses a rivet link. If I find one then I'm on it. Otherwise, clip link it is. When I install a clip link, when the clip is ready to go on, I clean off the outside of that link with parts cleaning solvent to get all trace of grease or oil off, then coat the outside of the link and the ends of the pins in JB Weld, then install the clip (facing the correct direction, of course), then run a loop of safety wire around the outside plate and the clip and bury the safety wire in the JB Weld, then let it sit for 24 hours to cure. That clip ain't coming off.
 
A decent chain will be $110-$195.
Add front and rear steel sprockets for another $65-$120
You may get a bit of a discount by buying a kit that contains chain and sprockets together.
 
Are you serious ... "Bikemaster" chain?

Read the specifications carefully. That is a NON O RING chain. Lubricant is not sealed inside each link. It will have a very short life.

That bike requires a 520 chain. I always recommend DID 520 ERV3 for that application.

Quotation " ***This chain is not recommended for high performance machines.*** " LOL

If you insist on Ebay then http://www.ebay.ca/itm/DID-ERV-3-52...rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2311cdf21a

... but you can get such a chain for a comparable price locally - go with that.
 
Brian P said:
Are you serious ... "Bikemaster" chain?

Read the specifications carefully. That is a NON O RING chain. Lubricant is not sealed inside each link. It will have a very short life.

That bike requires a 520 chain. I always recommend DID 520 ERV3 for that application.

Quotation " ***This chain is not recommended for high performance machines.*** " LOL

If you insist on Ebay then http://www.ebay.ca/itm/DID-ERV-3-52...rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2311cdf21a

... but you can get such a chain for a comparable price locally - go with that.
Click to expand...

EASY BIG BOY! im quite mechanically inclined but im really just starting to grasp the mechanical know how of bikes... yes i did catch that ***This chain is not recommended for high performance machines*** im not getting a new chain or sprockets for at least a month or two, considering the ones i have seem to not be too worn down, Also if i was in urgernt need of such parts i would do more research as to what type of quality i can expect from each manufacturer, tbh i just searched this on ebay a few days ago and put it in my watch list as reference. Still not certain as to how to match quality to name brand for motorcycle parts, so its either trial and error or hours of research fun on the interweb :P BTW thanks for the suggestion :D A little out of my price range but like i said, i will be doing more research when it comes time to change parts / actually have money to buy said parts :P

-Armen
 
DID, Tsubaki, RK, EK, and Regina are the most common good motorcycle chain brands. Don't go outside of those and definitely use an O-ring or X-ring chain at a minimum for a street bike. You'll find that within those constraints, the DID chain is competitively priced for something GOOD.

Using a cheap chain in this application is false economy at a minimum (due to its likely much shorter life and it will ruin your sprockets in the process) and given that the chain is a factor in your safety on the bike, using a cheap chain becomes a non-starter. And DO get a rivet link and get it properly installed.
 
Brian P said:
DID, Tsubaki, RK, EK, and Regina are the most common good motorcycle chain brands. Don't go outside of those and definitely use an O-ring or X-ring chain at a minimum for a street bike. You'll find that within those constraints, the DID chain is competitively priced for something GOOD.

Using a cheap chain in this application is false economy at a minimum (due to its likely much shorter life and it will ruin your sprockets in the process) and given that the chain is a factor in your safety on the bike, using a cheap chain becomes a non-starter. And DO get a rivet link and get it properly installed.
Click to expand...

Definitely! I will most probably end up doing the installation myself so i will have to shell out $100 just for the riveting/grinding tools, also some good instructions with the installation should aid in a successful and happy rider :D But for now im going to have to settle for the Clip + safety wire, the clip hasnt failed yet and im sure its been on the chain for a while so i just hope it doesn't put out anytime soon, ill get on the safety wire + lube during this weekend. Just to re-itterate, can i use just any steel wire? I have those green garden tie wraps, and im pretty sure it will do the trick (yes i will remove the green plastic coating :P )
 
Armen444 said:
im reffering to this
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/320764044446...X:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_1332wt_1037
Click to expand...
I've bought two kits from these guys, fast shipping, great prices: http://www.bluestreakracing.ca/en/b..._and_Sprocket_kit/chain_sprockets_yamaha.html

E-mail them with what bike you have, and if you'd like to change the gearing at all (i.e. -1/+2). You can mess with the gearing for your bike at http://www.gearingcommander.com (remember to change the RPM to your actual redline in the "custom" section, and make teeth changes there too).

-Jamie M.
 
toysareforboys said:
I've bought two kits from these guys, fast shipping, great prices: http://www.bluestreakracing.ca/en/b..._and_Sprocket_kit/chain_sprockets_yamaha.html

E-mail them with what bike you have, and if you'd like to change the gearing at all (i.e. -1/+2). You can mess with the gearing for your bike at http://www.gearingcommander.com (remember to change the RPM to your actual redline in the "custom" section, and make teeth changes there too).

-Jamie M.
Click to expand...


INTERESTING! i knew i could change gears for torque up or speed up, however a calculator such as this is pretty cool, ill have to check up on all the STOCK variables of my bike because im not too sure of most of the gearing, redline rpm, etc, etc. but thanks alot for the link :) from the chart on that website im already thinking of adding one more tooth to both the front and rear sprocket.
 
Armen444 said:
INTERESTING! i knew i could change gears for torque up or speed up, however a calculator such as this is pretty cool, ill have to check up on all the STOCK variables of my bike because im not too sure of most of the gearing, redline rpm, etc, etc. but thanks alot for the link :) from the chart on that website im already thinking of adding one more tooth to both the front and rear sprocket.
Click to expand...
When you add teeth to the front it reduces your power/acceleration but will cruise on the highway at a lower RPM, possibly give you better fuel economy. When you subtract teeth from the front it increases your acceleration, raises your cruising RPM and limits your top speed (assuming your bike could have gotten there anyway).

The rear sprocket is the opposite, more teeth = better acceleration, high cruising RPM's, limited top speed. If you subtract teeth, less power, lower cruising RPM.

I hope that makes sense. The most common upgrade is to take one tooth off the front (-1) and add two to the rear (+2). It gives you a nice boost in acceleration (makes your 600 feel like a 1000 :)), and it's not too insane for driving on the highway, etc.

You shouldn't go more than -1 or +1 on the front sprocket ;)

-Jamie M.
 
I need to buy a new connecting link, preferably one with a clip that I will safety wire on. I don't really want to buy the whole chain. What's the best bet - motorcycle wreckers?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom