DOT 11 - just because.Dot 5 Dot 5.1 That shouldn't lead to any confusion. For two totally noncompatable fluids could we not at least have chosen another number.
I always figure the engineers build in a "safety factor" and double that 2 year interval. Whether I actually get around to changing it at year four is another story......BMW specifies DOT 4 LV Brake fluid
Will check with them to see if 5.1 is approved at their end.
I currently change once a season, or half of their 2 year interval
Brake fluid is like fork oil. Most folks don't bother to change it until it's filthy. Unfortunately in forks or final drives you can't see it until you pull it apart. Any fluid that doesn't get hot enough to boil off water contamination should likely be replaced as per manufacturers recommendations.I always figure the engineers build in a "safety factor" and double that 2 year interval. Whether I actually get around to changing it at year four is another story......
I usually do fork oil because I'm needing to change leaky fork seals. I always make it a complete tear down and cleaning. Having gone through fork seals way sooner than a recommended fork oil change it's easy to see just how fast and dirty fork oil gets. Brake fluid looks good longer but likely moisture is the bigger concern.Brake fluid is like fork oil. Most folks don't bother to change it until it's filthy. Unfortunately in forks or final drives you can't see it until you pull it apart. Any fluid that doesn't get hot enough to boil off water contamination should likely be replaced as per manufacturers recommendations.
When I change brake fluid, the fluid in the calipers often looks like crap. The fluid in the lines/reservoir is not visually much different than the new fluid. I miss the old days where blue fluid was available to use every other time and make purges brainless.I usually do fork oil because I'm needing to change leaky fork seals. I always make it a complete tear down and cleaning. Having gone through fork seals way sooner than a recommended fork oil change it's easy to see just how fast and dirty fork oil gets. Brake fluid looks good longer but likely moisture is the bigger concern.
Pffft... Who needs brakes..?
They just slow you down.
Any chance it's a GL1500?I usually do fork oil because I'm needing to change leaky fork seals. I always make it a complete tear down and cleaning. Having gone through fork seals way sooner than a recommended fork oil change it's easy to see just how fast and dirty fork oil gets. Brake fluid looks good longer but likely moisture is the bigger concern.
No. My KLR650 gobbles fork seals. Perhaps because it sees a lot of gravel.....Any chance it's a GL1500?
Also don't forget the clutch fluid if you have a hydraulic clutch. My brake fluid didn'tlook bad but the clutch stuff was lumpy gravy.
Spindly forks - don't like being twisted about. Does yours still have the fork bellows ? I've also discovered over the years that some of the aftermarket seal kits aren't made to the same specs as OEM. All Balls is great, but not the same quality as original.No. My KLR650 gobbles fork seals. Perhaps because it sees a lot of gravel.....
All Balls is great, but not the same quality as original.
But when you're looking for the obscure, odds are they'll have something. Try to find steering head bearings for a Hyosung 650.All Balls products are just repackaged bulk Chinese made stuff...
All Balls does come throughBut when you're looking for the obscure, odds are they'll have something. Try to find steering head bearings for a Hyosung 650.
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