Brake fluids

Dot 5 Dot 5.1 That shouldn't lead to any confusion. For two totally noncompatable fluids could we not at least have chosen another number.
 
BMW specifies DOT 4 LV Brake fluid
Will check with them to see if 5.1 is approved at their end.

I currently change once a season, or half of their 2 year interval
I always figure the engineers build in a "safety factor" and double that 2 year interval. Whether I actually get around to changing it at year four is another story......
 
I always figure the engineers build in a "safety factor" and double that 2 year interval. Whether I actually get around to changing it at year four is another story......
Brake fluid is like fork oil. Most folks don't bother to change it until it's filthy. Unfortunately in forks or final drives you can't see it until you pull it apart. Any fluid that doesn't get hot enough to boil off water contamination should likely be replaced as per manufacturers recommendations.
 
Not looking forward to doing the Ural. Sidecar caliper will be fun.
 
Brake fluid is like fork oil. Most folks don't bother to change it until it's filthy. Unfortunately in forks or final drives you can't see it until you pull it apart. Any fluid that doesn't get hot enough to boil off water contamination should likely be replaced as per manufacturers recommendations.
I usually do fork oil because I'm needing to change leaky fork seals. I always make it a complete tear down and cleaning. Having gone through fork seals way sooner than a recommended fork oil change it's easy to see just how fast and dirty fork oil gets. Brake fluid looks good longer but likely moisture is the bigger concern.
 
I usually do fork oil because I'm needing to change leaky fork seals. I always make it a complete tear down and cleaning. Having gone through fork seals way sooner than a recommended fork oil change it's easy to see just how fast and dirty fork oil gets. Brake fluid looks good longer but likely moisture is the bigger concern.
When I change brake fluid, the fluid in the calipers often looks like crap. The fluid in the lines/reservoir is not visually much different than the new fluid. I miss the old days where blue fluid was available to use every other time and make purges brainless.
 
I usually do fork oil because I'm needing to change leaky fork seals. I always make it a complete tear down and cleaning. Having gone through fork seals way sooner than a recommended fork oil change it's easy to see just how fast and dirty fork oil gets. Brake fluid looks good longer but likely moisture is the bigger concern.
Any chance it's a GL1500?

Also don't forget the clutch fluid if you have a hydraulic clutch. My brake fluid didn'tlook bad but the clutch stuff was lumpy gravy.
 
Any chance it's a GL1500?

Also don't forget the clutch fluid if you have a hydraulic clutch. My brake fluid didn'tlook bad but the clutch stuff was lumpy gravy.
No. My KLR650 gobbles fork seals. Perhaps because it sees a lot of gravel.....
 
No. My KLR650 gobbles fork seals. Perhaps because it sees a lot of gravel.....
Spindly forks - don't like being twisted about. Does yours still have the fork bellows ? I've also discovered over the years that some of the aftermarket seal kits aren't made to the same specs as OEM. All Balls is great, but not the same quality as original.
 
But when you're looking for the obscure, odds are they'll have something. Try to find steering head bearings for a Hyosung 650.
All Balls does come through :)

When I did the steering head bearings in my buddy's BMW F800GSA I was surprised to see that they were Japanese and not German FAGs..

Yes... I typed "FAG" Giggidy giggity...
 
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