Best rattle can engine paint? | GTAMotorcycle.com

Best rattle can engine paint?

GreyGhost

Well-known member
Site Supporter
Covers or block? Alan Millyard uses Simoniz acrylic wheel paint on covers. I'm not going to argue with him.

 

TK4

Well-known member
Depends on what you're painting - for surfaces that don't suffer high heat I use PlastiKote.
 

Michael0124

Well-known member
Site Supporter
If it's for high temp I've had good experience with VHT paint.


Here's the engine block specific stuff:

 
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Roadghost

Well-known member
What brand worked best for you? I'm thinking silver / aluminum color.

The original paint is usually an anodized finish. You can use off the shelf rattle-can paint, but it won't hold up. The best thing to do is to strip any old paint off, then high polish the cover. After that use a can of 2K 368 0061 Clear, which dries very hard and can be buffed to a high-shine. If you don't want to buff, then get some silver Krylon and spray some 2k over it.
 

timtune

Well-known member
The original paint is usually an anodized finish. You can use off the shelf rattle-can paint, but it won't hold up. The best thing to do is to strip any old paint off, then high polish the cover. After that use a can of 2K 368 0061 Clear, which dries very hard and can be buffed to a high-shine. If you don't want to buff, then get some silver Krylon and spray some 2k over it.
Thanks RG. Where do you get the 2K? CTC?
 

alpacaandy

Member
when i was working at moparts we used wurth paints. They were great especially in the black satin paint color when i restored frames, dashes and steering columns. Finding them could be an issue
 

Priller

Well-known member
Would all of the above pertain to painting the frame (black) as well?
Watching replies closely. My RC51 has a black painted frame and swingarm, and both have a few good chips. Needless to say, a sharpie didn't get me very far. Don't need a show quality finish, just something durable that'll make them look less tatty...
 

jc100

Well-known member
Watching replies closely. My RC51 has a black painted frame and swingarm, and both have a few good chips. Needless to say, a sharpie didn't get me very far. Don't need a show quality finish, just something durable that'll make them look less tatty...

Does nail varnish work for small areas? I’ve used this as a concealer on small jobs before but it’s mainly been the clear coat. Don’t see why a colour coat won’t work. Shops might be locked down but just mug a goth.
 

Chris-CJ

Well-known member
Watching replies closely. My RC51 has a black painted frame and swingarm, and both have a few good chips. Needless to say, a sharpie didn't get me very far. Don't need a show quality finish, just something durable that'll make them look less tatty...
For the smaller chips on the frame, try using the pen-type touch up paint that is purposed for minor car paint chips. These "pens" come with dual applicator tips (one, at either end), one is the paint color and the other is clear-coat.
For heat bearing areas that are painted black, try paint used on barbecues.

(I take no responsibility for the results, these are best effort suggestions!)
 

bitzz

Well-known member
Every "clear" I have seen eventually yellows.
Every "aluminum" paint I have seen, save one, doesn't look right. Too smooth and glossy or too matte.
I did find one "aluminum" paint that looked right, a house brand from World Electric Supply. Then they switched suppliers to Tremclad.
If you want semi semi gloss black cases try VHT caliper paint.
 

Mad Mike

Well-known member
I use rattle cans to paint frames and engines (can’t be bothered to setup and clean my gun).

Cases don’t need high heat paint, cylinders do. I paint aluminum cases on dirt bikes all the time, sometimes on street bikes. Scuff with a scotch rite green pad, be sure they are really clean. Bondo spot putty small gouges and dings. Start with a high build etching primer in a rattle can. Fair the part then use Silver, (Canadian tire, $7) it’s a great match to the silver used on most painted cases. 3 coats, let flash for 20 min between coats. After 5 days, rattle can Duplicolor automotive clear with 2 coats.

The finish will be pretty and tough.

just finished this

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timtune

Well-known member
Start with a high build etching primer in a rattle can. Fair the part then use Silver, (Canadian tire, $7) it’s a great match to the silver used on most paint

is the high build primer a key step? are you getting that at ctc?
 

Mad Mike

Well-known member
Rustoleum for paint, I get primer from the PPG paint store
 

Delboy

Well-known member
I use a single stage urethane with an activator over an epoxy primer for a glossy finish. I've also used a mix of around 50/50 base and clear - activating the clear first and then adding the base - for a more semi-gloss or satin look as you can buy clear in a number of different sheens from Gloss to almost Flat.

Gas, oil and heat proof, and quite resilient.

Its nasty stuff so a pressure fed respirator is a good idea, worst case you need a really good organic respirator. Casings are small so you don't get a lot of mist and overspray but its nasty stuff.

I just did the crankcases on a current build with Cerakote. Its supposed to be good but only time will tell. It goes on really thin. It was $50 for a half pint and I hardly used any.
 

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