Bazzaz or PC5 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Bazzaz or PC5

Michael0124

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I'm looking to get a tuner for my FZ8, the bike has terrible fuelling in the lower rpm range and I want to clean it up a bit.

My first thought was to order the pc5 but looked at the bazzaz and it seems to be more than enough for what I want and is cheaper. I'm not looking to tune the bike to the ragged edge just want to clean up the fuelling and improve ride ability, don't plan on dyno tuning and will use the "improved" map it comes with.

I don't know much about the bazzaz brand, Google searches don't bring up much feedback about it. Anyone have experience with the bazzaz tuner? Is it pretty much the same as the pc5 or is there a reason it's cheaper?
 
Does one or both offer auto-tune? Does one or both offer quick-shifter/auto-blipper and does that interest you?

IIRC (which I may not), @Brian P used bazzaz on his R3.
 
Ive used both over the years and prefer bazzaz, the shops id go to preferred tuning it over the power commander too.
 
Does one or both offer auto-tune? Does one or both offer quick-shifter/auto-blipper and does that interest you?

IIRC (which I may not), @Brian P used bazzaz on his R3.

They both offer optional auto tune and quick shifter, the bazzaz offers traction control (not sure if PC does). I'm happy that I have no interest in those features because they cost more than the tuner itself
 
I installed one of these on my friends Yamaha bolt. Very easy to tune, no computer required. I quite liked it and am considering one for my t7.
Keep in mind, it is just an injector tuner. It does not have quickshifter or other capabilities.
Royal Distributing sells them for $300 or so.

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Thanks, appreciate the tip. I'm going to explore this as an option. I only need the fuel tuning capability so this might fit the bill. Dynojet had a similar product but they discontinued it and I can only find it for sale in Europe, after duties it'll be more than the bazzaz zfi though.
 
Why don't you get the ecm flashed instead..the pc and bizzazz do not eliminate fuel cut and fan temps..you can also have the fueling adjusted

I considered it but there seems to be so many options for that it's kind of overwhelming tbh. Would be easier as there is no harness or module to install.

Any gta area shops that do that? Or do I order one of those bench flash kits?

They seem to be more expensive than the tuners but the fuel cut is what I'm assuming is causing the low speed driveability issue, I assumed the tuners would handle that as part of the fuelling changes.
 
I considered it but there seems to be so many options for that it's kind of overwhelming tbh. Would be easier as there is no harness or module to install.

Any gta area shops that do that? Or do I order one of those bench flash kits?

They seem to be more expensive than the tuners but the fuel cut is what I'm assuming is causing the low speed driveability issue, I assumed the tuners would handle that as part of the fuelling changes.
@johnscruiser used to flash. Not sure if he still does. No idea on cost or benefits.
 
this guy has a real nice mobile dyno and tune setup
can clean up fuel map with a PC or ECU flash
saw him at Ride for Sight a few years ago
maybe worth contacting him

 
If the issue is abrupt lurching and snatching due to decel fuel cut cutting in and out (i.e. the decel fuel cut threshold is set to too big a throttle opening), no piggyback controller will fix it *. The ECU has to be reflashed to change how decel fuel cut behaves (i.e. whether it does it at all).

If the issue is excessive throttle sensitivity and the bike is fly-by-wire (which I think it is, but I'm not 100% sure), the issue is the mapping between the rider-requested throttle position and the ECU-commanded throttle position. Again, this is a map inside the ECU, and no piggyback can fix it * (although, my experience with aftermarket ECU reflashing is that they don't fix it, either).

Part-throttle driveability stuff is waaaayyyy more complicated to sort out than full-throttle mapping for max horsepower and torque, and you cannot fully deal with it on a dyno that a normal person can afford. (The OEMs have test labs with load-control dynos so that they can simulate every loading situation you can imagine ... you and I cannot afford those!)

Your best bet is to find internet forums that are dedicated to that particular bike (surely, they are out there) because I guarantee that you won't be the only one complaining, and maybe someone has come up with a solution ** - probably involving an ECU reflash, in which case you need to get that reflash, not just any reflash. Ask about decel fuel cut. Ask about fly-by-wire rider-requested versus commanded throttle position maps. It's in there, somewhere.

* Aftermarket piggybacks can cover up these issues to some extent but it is really hard to get right. I have a PowerCommander in my zx10r (no reflash was available to mere mortals at the time I did this, years ago), and the solution to the decel fuel cut was to make the slightly-cracked-open mapping (0%, 2% throttle) as lean as possible without misfire. The thinking is, when decel fuel is cut, the engine is making no power. When it cuts back in (or just before it cuts out), you want the engine to be making as little power as possible, so that the step between "fuel cut", and "just barely not quite cut" is as small as possible. And I managed to achieve it - the bike is a sweetheart on back roads, partly because of this. But it took hours of testing and mapping by hand, with an air-fuel-ratio gauge mounted to the bike, to get it like that everywhere in the rev range.

** My R3 race bike has a canned reflash and a PowerCommander. The canned reflash was claimed to solve a bunch of driveability headaches. I actually don't know if it did, because I never rode the bike without the reflashed ECU. But I sure had to fiddle with mapping on the PowerCommander to get it absolutely right. And then I degreed the camshafts ... and then had to do it all over again, because it affected stuff. I actually had to re-implement decel fuel cut in the PowerCommander - by zeroing out 0% and 2% columns above a certain RPM - in order to address a rich stumble that it was getting upon re-applying throttle mid-corner. Still don't have it 100%. I thought I did ... then I had a rain race, and discovered that I didn't have it right below 7000 rpm. Don't know if I fixed it, because it stopped raining.
 
I’ve had both - PC on a ZX-12R and Bazzaz on a ZX14. Both fuelled great but I would say the Bazzaz was better. Of note was the tuning time. They had the ZX-12R/PC on the dyno ALL day, did at least a dozen, maybe 15 pulls. The ZX14/Bazzaz was on the dyno for maybe 10 minutes and two pulls and done.
 
I got my fz09 flashed by vcyclenut down in the states a few years ago, he does fz8’s as well after looking at his website. I was totally happy with my flash, fixed all the problems. I think pro6 can do the woolich flash for your bike also.
 
The bike isn't fly by wire, when I first got it I noticed the throttle was very loose so adjusted to spec and lubed it but the stutter remained. I've read some posts about throttle bodies being out of sync can cause it as well so that's something I need to check to rule out.

My initial comment was a bit vague, what it's doing isn't violent, I don't feel like it'll throw me off but when I decelerate in first and it gets to around 3500rpm it starts to buck slightly and gets worse as the rpm drop. I thought maybe I'm lugging the engine but I've never felt that on any other bike I've ridden. If I add the slightest bit of throttle it goes away and smooths right out. And it doesn't do it all in 2nd gear under the same conditions.


I saw the vcyclenut site, good to hear some feedback about them on Yamaha's. Going to look into it, thank you.
 
The fz09 had terrible engine braking habits when decelerating and a very snatchy throttle when accelerating, the flash smoothed everything out.
 
seems to be a problem common to many Yamaha bikes of that era
FZ6 was well known for snatchy throttle - mine was pretty bad
my FJ09 wasn't much better
slow speed riding - parking lot stuff, required a lot of fine clutch usage
 

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