I just upgraded to a 2000 ninja 250 and i love it. I learned a lot on the 125 such as leaning off the bike.I love this bike though i like that its bigger, bigger tires, more passing power and i dont have to tuck to keep up on the highway. My neighbor came an introduced himself because he saw the bike in the truck and thought it was a 600. He has a 2017 cbr 600RR we have been going on rides its great. Im fine with the top speed i got it up to 170 but i would like a bit more acceleration for passing and situations like that. I was thinking a sprocket change but i dont want to affect my top speed to much. Anyone know what i should do or what my top speed would be if i did a lower sprocket change on this bike? Thanks.
|
|
|
2000 Ninja 250 Sprocket Change
- Thread starter Cbr125guy
- Start date
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Gearing Commander ⚙ will help you.
TK4
Well-known member
Stock front sprocket is 14t, rear is 47t.
The front is already about as small as you can go without kicking the chain over too much and causing premature wear.
The aftermarket has rear sprockets to fit from 33t to 61t.
I would think that going up 2t on the rear to 49t would give you a little extra punch without increasing engine rpm too badly at highway speeds.
It may require a slightly longer chain, but I doubt it.
Its only a 250 after all.
The front is already about as small as you can go without kicking the chain over too much and causing premature wear.
The aftermarket has rear sprockets to fit from 33t to 61t.
I would think that going up 2t on the rear to 49t would give you a little extra punch without increasing engine rpm too badly at highway speeds.
It may require a slightly longer chain, but I doubt it.
Its only a 250 after all.
Thanks. Ya that might be true, i guess its just cause my buddy has a 600 and I feel slow accelerating next to him and some cars. I feel like I have the shifting down pat my 0-100 even to max is pretty fast for me away. Guess i just have to deal with it that its only a 250 until the upgrade. 1000X better than the cbr 125 though XD.
by using a smaller countershaft chainring you are increasing the load on the chain + sprocket by decreasing their contact area. Technically you should see more wear as a result. Whether or not a 20yr old Ninja 250 has the power for that to be actually become an issue is probably debatable.
The chain has to do a more severe angle change as it wraps around each tooth, and the chain changes its linear speed more as each chain link engages - this is why when you spin a chain/sprocket system, there is a little bit of a "bumpity-bumpity-bump" noise as the chain wraps around the sprocket one link at a time. These phenomena get worse as the sprocket gets fewer and fewer teeth, and 14 teeth is considered the practical minimum for a durable and relatively smooth-running chain and sprocket system.
The other thing is that the sprocket with fewer teeth is smaller in diameter, and it can lead to the chain rubbing against the plastic guides on the swing-arm ... and potentially rubbing through those plastic guides! It's okay if the chain lightly touches those guides now and again, that's what they are there for. But constantly rubbing and wearing ... will shorten the life of those guides.
The other thing is that the sprocket with fewer teeth is smaller in diameter, and it can lead to the chain rubbing against the plastic guides on the swing-arm ... and potentially rubbing through those plastic guides! It's okay if the chain lightly touches those guides now and again, that's what they are there for. But constantly rubbing and wearing ... will shorten the life of those guides.
Can I go up more dramatically in the back and be fine then? I heard people running 13/47 on their ninjas but now much the other way around. I also want to learn some stunting I know it sounds bad and im a beginner but I have a very safe area to do it and I just want some more low end power, and not have to rev to 10000 or more to get it up. I'm fine with dropping some top speed. Plz no hate not doing anything on public roads and always geared up. Thanks
Recommendation ... especially in view of your relative lack of experience (sorry, but it is) ... Stay with the stock sprocket ratios. The original manufacturer of that bike, knew what they were doing when they picked that final drive ratio.
If you need more acceleration while riding, downshift to a lower gear.
One or two teeth give or take, won't make enough difference that you will notice. Not enough to be worth the bother. Downshifting from 6th to 5th (or 4th) ... will.
A large difference in final drive ratio will make a difference that you will notice ... both good and bad. The compromise between that good and bad ... is why the bike's original manufacturer picked the final drive ratio that they did.
You are not yet in a position where you can second-guess that choice in an educated manner - so don't.
If you need more acceleration while riding, downshift to a lower gear.
One or two teeth give or take, won't make enough difference that you will notice. Not enough to be worth the bother. Downshifting from 6th to 5th (or 4th) ... will.
A large difference in final drive ratio will make a difference that you will notice ... both good and bad. The compromise between that good and bad ... is why the bike's original manufacturer picked the final drive ratio that they did.
You are not yet in a position where you can second-guess that choice in an educated manner - so don't.
No i understand i am i beginner and i still have a lot to learn. I understand when to downshift for extra power and what gear i should be in but i just feel that it still lacks a little bit, no matter if im in peak power rpm or not. Mainly i want the extra power in first and second for getting it up off the ground. Nothing crazy just enough to be comfortable with keeping the front up.
matt365
Well-known member
Going to a 60 tooth rear sprocket would make that bike nearly unrideable anywhere but a parking lot as a stunt bike.
Gearing doesn't make the bike faster. First would be good until 10-15kph at redline, and pull stumps like a tractor...
2nd would be the new first, and all the rest would be too close together to be of much use past 80kph.
New chain, and a 13 tooth difference in the rear? Go for it. Whats the worst that could happen.
Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk
Gearing doesn't make the bike faster. First would be good until 10-15kph at redline, and pull stumps like a tractor...
2nd would be the new first, and all the rest would be too close together to be of much use past 80kph.
New chain, and a 13 tooth difference in the rear? Go for it. Whats the worst that could happen.
Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk
I was joking about the 60 tooth ? I seen it though. I dont want it that drastic 13/47 inst nearly as big of a jump. I just something with a little more oompf at stunt speeds because right now its not that capable of much. Dont get me wrong i love the bike but i just wanna learn this.
|
|
|
|
|