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# 530 drive chain spring clip master links. common in the states, but impossible to find up here, so far. North Toronto area.....

I just tried that very process for the first time. $11 each installed, Competition Auto, 395 Red Maple L4C 6P3 Ive swapped out a lot of Triumph & BSA guides, and I like this method a lot more. Any clearance you want.

Ive used these type fuse boxes on a few re-wires. The top row of connectors get a wire right down across all of them, connected to ignition switch, and gets a cover made from cutting a piece of fuel line to cover, and a couple dabs of black silicone keeps the cover in place. The cover is below...

Im a firm believer in a kill switch at your thumb..iI got later alloy switchgear- a joke, compared to Japanese gear of the same era- but I know my around around them- I just use them to control a relay. the small load means they don't burn and so forth. I ran those later switches for years, but...

On the head, barely a pass- just enough to show its flat.....and, yuh- there was umpty changes to the pushrod tube sealing rings and stuff....this is all original, if abused.....I got a gasket set from MAP cycles- they make their own, pretty much. ANYHOW, tracked down a old machine shop with...

No....you can easily get the bushings out of alignment with each other, causing binding that soon translates to sloppy bushings. I found a shop thats been around long enough to have reamed a lot of auto kingpins. $20, next day service, dead true, optimal ..... Berco Machine, 163 Milvan M9L 1Z8

the reamer needs to be at least 7 in long, to cut both bush's at the same time, so they are aligned w/ each other. Thats the tricky aspect. If I ream one side, then the other, they may not be aligned, so the shaft will bind.....

neither big local shops have an expanding bar long enough. Shaft dia is .874- its an old Triumph. thx, Mutt

Got the head back from competition automotive, L4C 6P3. Replaced two exhaust seats, 80 inc seats, fit four guide bushings- Ive been wanting to try that. $44. for the four, complete. cut four 3 angle seats- they use something like router bits, not stones- $100/4. Seems to be the going rate. They...

Neat things! I think the one small indicator that changes colour will go into the Trumpet I'm working on. I run bicycle speedos on my bikes. Cheap and small. $20. But they aren't illuminated.....the price jumps up into the hundreds it seems when ya go looking for a cycle speedo....you folks know...

0Ive been running the same Kuryakn volt meter as above on 2 bikes over 15 years. VERY nice gadget. early warning heads up....

the under tank version. Cash. Im located GTA

I need acess or someone interested in bandsawing a fr. caliper bracket. Ill drill the holes & file it smooth after Got a pattern made. ....the 1/4 in Al plate i have is too much for my hand jig saw.....

Im not a fan of sandblasting aluminum bits, but there were two broken fins on this one....donor fins located and welded, and the sandblasting removes the weld.....kept the damn thing outta the head mating surface and combustion chamber. When the valves arrive, Ill swing by some shops to see...

Whoa!! THANKs for that link,. JoeT.....neat.

Across the southern border. Some shops are set up to do production head work. Way back it was $1.25 a valve and $1.75 a seat. 1970....... But I do see where most everything is more expensive in Canada. Ill be buzzin the various shops recommended. Thanks for the various rec's.....

$120 to cut 4 seats is 30/seat. Im new to Canada, and all, but usually cutting seats is 3-7 bucks each, facing valves, half that. Its hardly being cheap to question $30 a seat, then. Im talking JUST cutting the seat, not facing the valve and R&R the guide. Just cutting the seat.

I assemble the heads myself for a lot or reasons...one being I like to use a pencil to check where things are seating, if its concentric, etc. Ive find some dodgy jobs that way. I like to make sure everything is free of debris, etc. Packages: back cut valves, bead blasting, cost for facing...