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They never had a Toronto factory in the early 90's? I distinctly remember it was Maple something or other, not Schneiders.

It was more because of which parts went into the ham than the actual process.

A couple of my friends worked part time at Maple Lodge Farms making ham. They both said they'd never eat ham again.

Hard to beat their $1.50 hot dog / polish sausage including a drink. Probably the only place I'll order one. I really miss their turkey pesto sandwiches.

All you need is to keep the tire from sticking to the rim when it's going over. Worst case scenario, just do as Hailey would, and Hawk Tuah!

There's also this, but there is such a thing as too much lube and your tire will spin on the rim if applied improperly: https://www.princessauto.com/en/product/tire-bead-lube/PA0008223208/8223208

You have a perfectly ruined tire you should be practicing on. Mount the bad bead first, then practice mounting and unmounting the good bead before you ruin another new tire. It's not the lube, especially if you're using spoons - it's the technique. Keep the opposite side of the tire in the drop...

Unless you actually have 12-point or triple-square fasteners.

There are times when it's worth paying the premium for high quality tools. Sockets and wrenches need to have close tolerances or you pay for it in stripped fasteners.

In fariness, it's pretty easy to scratch a rim and/or ruin a tire if you do it wrong, and worst case if you don't realize you are riding on an unsafe tire. As for ballers, I'd say @NuggyBuggy is the real baller for practicing on his Ducati rim and a brand new tire.

Speaking of PA, here's something I know you all need, even though it may not technically be on sale: https://www.princessauto.com/en/product/11-pc-10-mm-socket-and-wrench-set/PA0009463373/9463373

Not specifically since Princess Auto started carrying most of the same stuff and it's so much easier to do an exchange/return if there's a problem. But if I'm in the area anyways, I always drop in.

That's what the rear preload adjuster is for - set your sag to account for your top box weight, and away you go. Doesn't your model have hydraulic preload adjuster, so no tools required? If so, I'll be going to Gus Tacos tomorrow night and can bring my sag scale. Should take 5 minutes.

I should have clarified that my comments apply equally to air or battery ratchets (and ratchets only - I use my battery impact for lots of stuff, and have been considering investing in a new Thor air impact for even more power). Air and batteries are always ready to go, it's more about not...

I bought a 1/2" impact and 3/8" ratchet with my first compressor back in the early 90's. The ratchet is still in its unopened box. In over 30 years of working on Japanese and Euro cars and bikes, I've never NEEDED it, although many times once I was already in the middle of loosening/fastening in...

Also make sure the pump pistons are retracting properly, might need some lubrication if gummed up.

This is how Dunlop does it (you have to watch on youtube for some reason):

I have a 30-year-old 3T jack from Canadian Tire that occasionally does that. No leaks that I noticed, so all I do is jack it up all the way to the top and keep pumping a bunch more times. This bleeds the air out of it and stops it from sinking under its own weight. The alternative air bleeding...

I always wondered who would be dumb enough to waste their money on one of those uselessly small tool boxes that looked like they belonged in the toy section for their kids, but OMG - mounting them to the wall to take advantage of unused space is genius! Looks like they also can hold a more...

Yup, expensive. I remember my parents buying an original IBM PC with 2 floppies, the ATI memory board, CGA colour monitor, and Epson FX80 printer and the bill being just under $10,000! Which was 1/3 the price of my dad's brand new Mercedes 450 SL he bought a few years earlier.