Search results

I also prefer to go up the rear before down the front. ;) Fewer teeth on the front shrinks the clearance from the chain to the swingarm/pivot, which may or may not be a problem on many bikes, but definitely on some. But it is the cheaper way to go and requires no change in your chain length...

Let me know when you plan to do the 3x drain and I'll see if my garage is in a state where you can use the lift. Worst case it just needs to be not raining so I can dump everything onto the driveway while we do it.

Come and get it! It's the least I can do to repay you. EDIT: I'm stuck at home this week for a family reunion, otherwise would deliver.

I was with you until your opinion of the Motion Pro Tool. I inherited a well-used one from @RC-31 and it's been great. I do grind the heads of the rivets before pressing them out to preserve the tool, but I would do that with any chain tool to prolong tool life and to make it easier on my hands...

I check the OEM specs and get a DID with a tensile stength that's close enough. I originally got turned off OEM chains when I started riding because the ones for my bikes were usually "endless" and required swingarm removal, which I didn't think was worth the hassle.

Funny how tire age always works to the shop's advantage: Inspection where customer pays - "Tires are otherwise fine, but need to be replaced due to age." Inspection where dealer pays - "Tires are fine, age doesn't matter."

If it's the same as our Odyssey (and a lot of other transmissions), a proper fluid service requires multiple drain/fills (like at least 3) to actually get all the fluid out (since only a fraction of the fluid comes out during a drain, leaving the majority of it still in the transmission). This...

Oh boy. I thought this was a thing of the past. I lived through this with my 2001, and pretty sure I shared the odyssey of our Odyssey's trans. First, what's the mileage and in-service date of yours, and line it up with the transmission warranty - check if there's a separate transmission...

Do both. If it's a conversation with the original shop, it won't (well, shouldn't) cost anything for them to explain.

Of all the tines I've gotten a bike safetied by Ted, he's never touched any of them except the CBR125 where he went through it with a fine-toothed comb. My only explanation is that he forgot who I was and assumed I was a new rider based on the bike, and felt it necessary to make sure everything...

I like this idea, and maybe even be upfront and say you bought it from her and want to understand how all the costs add up to decide if it's worth it to have them do it for you. That gives them a fair chance of explaining, and if it's all BS, I'd name the shop.

Great if you already have one sturdy enough that won't collapse while you're shaking the bike cleaning/lubing the chain. The one linked is USD$25 on Amazon.com, or $50 on .ca. At that point you can get a wheel roller for $25 that's less risky...

Paging KTM

Seems odd that they were just sitting there taking videos. I figured they were waiting for a report on the track conditions ahead, but they could have gotten it from the other train that came into view, yet they didn't seem to be in any rush to GTFO.

Was it working fine before with the original carb (before it clogged)? Maybe your new carb is too small for the motor? Or maybe it's not adjusted to optimum running speed?

Whoever though a malfunctioning dash display should disable the entire bike should be shot. It should literally be just a display.

Watched these commercials between Saturday morning cartoons?

Of course, but you could say the same for the US wildfires that were out of control a while back.

Deservedly? If ever there was a case of unwarranted victim blaming. We can control the weather and wildfires about as much as they can. Maybe next time American oil refineries take a hit from Mother Nature, we blame them for the hike in gas prices instead of the weather? Also, it's convenient...