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300V is not recommended for idling, it requires high oil pressure to lubricate properly, ie/track

Honestly if you want Mottorad service Budds' is really on top of that department. They're probably pretty slammed right now but I'm sure they'll make an effort to get you scheduled in within a couple weeks

That won't do anything, if you want to play around go get a roll of camera film, cut a hook shape out of it and insert it between the seal and fork tube and pull it around. I've never tried it but I've heard it sometimes works if theres debris in there and the seal isn't physically damaged. Be...

Only benefit to copper is you can reuse them a couple times if they're not crushed to ***** although I prefer not to. Even if there was a corrosion issue, which there isn't, its a crushwasher, you're going to change it out soon anyway.

smoothness is far more important than any ambiguous number

What you use is a grease gun and zerk in place of the bleed nipple, grease gun will make up to 5000 psi, and a mess, but it will get it out

For many (myself included), riding isn't feasible until you turn 25. Good luck.

after seeing a couple youtube videos of knee injuries after a crash I swore to wear my knee pads at all times, and thankfully was wearing them during my first crash, landed on my knee, and thought nothing of it

It's not that mechanics have no idea what's going on, it's that most people don't want to pay for an actual diagnosis that takes time and only want them to take a "quick listen". As with most things in life you get what you pay for.

I bought my bike from Kahuna, from Sergio. It was in a crate "all the way in the back". I picked it up assembled 4 days later

The most critical aspect of break in on a street bike is high cylinder pressure on the rings. You achieve that with WOT at low to mid rpm, progressively increasing engine speed with each pull. Change your oil and filter (mineral) at 500 and 1500 km, switch to synthetic at 3000km if your want.

Gws, this is the only part of the forum I hate seeing activity on

What they mean is clean pistons, caliper parts, sliders and re-lube, sometimes sliders rust and become seized, which can take a while to remove, clean, lube and reinstall Ps. Don't forget the cost of parts

Lowes

chicken strips speak louder than words

If your caliper pistons are dirty inside its possible that they're not fully retracting and causing your pads to bounce around a bit. You can try removing the pads, cleaning the calipers with kerosene (or soap and water) and a toothbrush, and lube the pins, sliders, back of the pads and spring...

until you yard sale

Congrats, be safe and have fun. If anyone makes fun of you for starting on a 125/250 pay no attention to them, because they're an idiot.

I wouldn't say cheap, lots of labour involved unless you're implying the average person is capable of doing all the work themselves, in which case new second gear(s) are roughly $200-300