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You need a new charger, or just don't try to constantly 'maintain' it during the off season. Smart chargers kill batteries. They're usually turning down the juice when they should be turning it UP... that's why your charger thinks the battery is good, and yet the battery won't start the bike...

My bike is some 20 years older than yours; it is also carbureted. My carburetors have and idle adjustment screw. I've never played with a kawasaki, but being oldschool, I can't imagine a carb setup without an idle adjustment. My bike came with an 'owner's manual,' and I bought a...

+10000... this is how you do it. OP : Don't curse the product, there's nothing wrong with it. Don't take out 1 bolt entirely and then move to the next: undo them 1/4 or 1/2 turn at a time. As soon as you release the pressure from one bolt, more pressure is put on the other. Some clips have...

That's a rivet link. It looks fine. What you're thinking of is a clip type master link. Those ones have the locking clip. Notice how the ends of the pins on your master link are dimpled in the middle? That's one way you can tell. Clip type master links will not have a dimple; they will have...

Bead breaker : http://www.kapscomoto.com/product_p/smi2063.htm Balancer : http://www.kapscomoto.com/product_p/wb3003.htm

What's the matter?.. didn't like being told to "get the fork-oil outta here?" "No parts for YOU. ONE YEAR !!" Doing your research helps. They ARE the only Honda dealer in town; you will have to drive an hour ;) Checking out a website and firing off an email before heading down probably would...

If the correct part is no longer available, you can also look for a coil spring that is the same outside diameter and length of your hose. Putting the spring around the hose will prevent it from kinking. You could also put a spring inside the hose, but outside will work just fine.

Shorting the 2 data pins together should trick most of the newer stuff into going into 'rapid charge' mode. You likely can't hack open the socket, but you can slice open the USB cable (the one from this socket to your device,) and twist them together. Just remember that this will become a...

bump... ... anybody ?

The day was in fact MAY 31... Sorry about that. Today is calendar flipping day, so naturally, I forgot which month had just past, as the name is no longer right in front of my nose, lol. Found it last evening on the during the commuting hours, posted up this morning when I got in.

I found a passenger seat from a supersport. If you lost one Thursday, MAY 31; I may have it. I'm not going to post where it was or what bike it fits, because if you lost it, you'd already know that info ;) Somebody must need this thing back. *** edited *** Date was wrong.

T-Rex Racing makes a decent reversible stand... Does the job of the forward handle OR the rear handle. It's a great stand; I'd say the quality is about 85-90% of Pit Bull.

Without knowing any details: 1. not normally 2. not normally 3. not normally 4. probably... because not everything would be 'off' Charge up your battery and do a parasitic current drain test (aka current draw)-- that will tell you if something is 'draining' your battery. Charge up...

Done it on 3 or 4 genuine Shoei visors. Both Rain X on the outside and Rain X anti fog on the inside. No problems. the Rain X instructions say that it might cloud up some plastics, but it was fine.

The throttle stop screw is the one that you want to be adjusting for idle -- and yes, it is common to have to adjust this a lot. It is the screw that is located with the throttle cables @ the carb. It literally keeps the throttle plate open a (however much you set it) bit when you let go of...

It's a part that probably costs around $12; and it can save your motor / life if the motor seizes and locks the rear wheel. The feedback is YOU. BTW... how are you going to fix the leak? Replace the switch with a bolt? or JB weld up the hole?

Quite right on my misuse of the term tension. I would have meant to use the word "sag." You're also right that using the sag spec in the bikes manual to the method I presented would (probably but not necessarily,) result in far too much sag. But the specification to use to set the sag would...

You're right that NO SHOP is going to do this. That's one of the reasons that I don't trust shops to do anything. Disconnecting the shock or ratcheting the suspension down are just the P.C. ways of doing it. The truly easiest way to do this is to have one of your larger/heavier friends sit on...

It is not always true that the chain tightens. A lot of bikes once its passes a certain point (ie all lined up) the chain slackens again. Factory bike manuals outline an easy approximate way of doing it. It is not always the best. -- But they do know the behavior of their design. Remember...

If you're adjusting the chain to get the correct chain tension, then you'll probably want the rear suspension COMPRESSED, not drooped. The goal is to make sure the chain is not too tight when the suspension has it pulled the tightest. The tightest the suspension can pull on the chain is when...