Had to do a carb clean and co2 bypass on a cheapass Firman genny with a pair of vice grips and a screwdriver at -25c.
Learned a new trick from an electrician yesterday - you can make a jump pack with a piece of 14/2 wire and a Milliwakee tool battery. Jam the wire into the connection on the battery then touch the dead battery. Won’t start a car, but cranked over the atv just fine.
Snowblower runs without leaking.
Only thing now is the connector for the wire that makes the thing blow keeps vibrating off. I’ve temporarily fixed it with duct tape. Might try some blue loctite. I’m not sure why it wasn’t vibrating off before.
Installed an oil pan heater and did the SEIC switch and reprogrammed upgrade our last F’d-150. The upgrade sets 1000 RpM as base idle and heats oil for startup and phaser lubrication.
Hopefully this will help the poor Coyote to live past 40k.
Installed an oil pan heater and did the SEIC switch and reprogrammed upgrade our last F’d-150. The upgrade sets 1000 RpM as base idle and heats oil for startup and phaser lubrication.
Hopefully this will help the poor Coyote to live past 40k.
Yes - our trucks are in a very challenging severe service environment in the far northern reaches of Ontario. Rough clay/mud roads, -30 for months on end. It’s still -5 (as in your pic) some days in early June.
You don’t see many Ford trucks here - if you do they rarely last 3 years - they can’t take the rugged terrain or the cold. We’re lucky to see 50k from an F150, most are dead in 3 years and rarely hit 100k.
It’s Dodge and GM country, Fords come here to die.
The main Ford issues (F and E series) are cold related. Broken door latches are so common we keep a box of spares for 2 trucks - both inside and out. They don’t start reliably below -30 without being plugged in, and they often go into starter lock out from cranking. You can’t heat them up at idle and they idle all day. They don’t produce enough engine heat or oil flow at idle to serve the cam phasers (or warming spots for the crews) that’s the killer. The ABS /Traction control sensors freeze and the trucks go into limp. These are not random problems - they happen to every late model F and E series gas truck that operates here.
Some owners zip tie the gas pedals to keep idle at 1100rpm to build heat and oil flow. Ford has a hidden high idle setting, but it’s got to be enabled in the BCM using a programmer. It’s a PIA to use - every time you stop: enable the parking brake, turn on cruise control, then simultaneous press of the set and resume buttons. Awful when a bunch of guys use the truck because they have to remember the sequence and to turn it on. Awful because F series parking brakes freeze ON in the cold so nobody will touch them. I do an upgrade that bypasses the control part to keeps the high idle always on - it helps, the engines live to 80-100k.
Dodges and GMs live till they rust out or get crashed. Fords tap out early here - 3 years and 50k is all you get from a work truck.
A fleet manager spelled it out clearly for me:
Ford designs F-150s primarily as consumer pickups with work capability, GM and Ram still design theirs primarily as work trucks that consumers buy.
Ditched the cam timing belt covers on the DragWing. Shaved about 4lbs, probably reduced the CoD by a ridiculously small amount and turned the Cool Factor up to Eleven.
This is more, what am I GONNA do in my garage today, and probably tomorrow.
With my shop finished I'm going to turn on the little heater and finish sorting, cleaning and organizing my tools. Then I'm going to sort my Norton commando parts in preparation to getting it on the lift to finish it off. First though, I'm going to install the little wind screen, crash bars, and my lower pegs on the GasGas 700. Then get the Commando on the lift to finish it.
I have a 3'X4' east facing window. Mornings are GLORIOUS in there with a thermos of coffee.
Its funny eh...
Buddy of mine and his wife moved to a place nearby about 6 years ago...
The house itself came with a few issues... The well was nearing its end of life, it needed a new roof and a few other little things...
But... F### all that... it also has a 20x40 workshop on the property.
I swear... to my buddy the house meant NOTHING... he wanted that shop.
And he got it...
Im over there two/three times a week. I can't remember the last time I went into the house.
It's into the driveway, park and into the shop at the back of the property.
Changed the air filter on my F150 this morning as mileage has been noticeably poor. 17min drive (this direction is slightly uphill) I averaged 15.4L/100. Same drive today (slightly downhill) after the filter change was 9.8L/100.
The incline/decline will affect it a bit but not that much. Surprised how bad it was after only 18,000km but it was the oem one.
Changed the air filter on my F150 this morning as mileage has been noticeably poor. 17min drive (this direction is slightly uphill) I averaged 15.4L/100. Same drive today (slightly downhill) after the filter change was 9.8L/100.
The incline/decline will affect it a bit but not that much. Surprised how bad it was after only 18,000km but it was the oem one.
That’s a huge difference! I’d expect 2-3% mileage difference yours seems degraded by 50% - huge.
I change truck filters to high flow, they are a tiny bit better on fuel, but noticing better on throttle response.
They sound nicer too!
My F150 is getting some love next week. Gotta do a front suspension overhaul, I think I’ll treat her to a proper 3” lift too - not a lot of extra work when the suspension is apart.
That’s a huge difference! I’d expect 2-3% mileage difference yours seems degraded by 50% - huge.
I change truck filters to high flow, they are a tiny bit better on fuel, but noticing better on throttle response.
They sound nicer too!
My F150 is getting some love next week. Gotta do a front suspension overhaul, I think I’ll treat her to a proper 3” lift too - not a lot of extra work when the suspension is apart.
I usually do air filters at 30k but swapped this one early as I couldn't explain the loss in mpg. Maybe it got a bunch of Krown rust spray in there or maybe it just sucked up a lot of dirt between factory to dealer. Will check this new one at 15k.
I'll take a look at the cabin filter this week as well.
I usually do air filters at 30k but swapped this one early as I couldn't explain the loss in mpg. Maybe it got a bunch of Krown rust spray in there or maybe it just sucked up a lot of dirt between factory to dealer. Will check this new one at 15k.
I'll take a look at the cabin filter this week as well.
I’m religious with oil changes, particularly on late model pickups because they are all sensitive to dirty oil. I blow out air filters as part of my LOF routine so even on my rougher than normal travels, I’ll go 40k on a good air filter.
I’m not much of a F150 fan and would never have one as a work truck, but ironically my daily is an F150 (fortunately its toughest work is getting coffee). I change oil and filter every 6000km, the old coyote has 250k on her and she has 195-205 psi on all cylinders (like new), and quiet phasers.
NOTE: To protect the aluminum rims I cut up a 4 litre oil jug into pieces about the size of a business card, folded them in half and then rounded one end so as not to poke the tube. Tucked between the rim and tire where ever I used the lever. This worked really well.
Was out with the Squeeze and we stopped at a thrift shop. Was gonna just read in the car but decided to go in for a quick look. Ended up buying a pit stand similar to this. For $35 I'd roll the dice that it fits something I own. Turns out the swing arm pads work with the KLR and the spool bits work on the DragWing axle bolt so well worth it. Sadly the 750F and KLX don't work with either.
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