Engine oil filter | GTAMotorcycle.com

Engine oil filter

MarioRRR

Well-known member
I was changing engine oil for Motul 7100 10W40 4T on my Suzuki GSX 1250. I want to show you difference on the basic oil filter. I hope it is visible that OEM filter has different hole diameters for oil filtration prior coming to paper insert filter. That being said performance on both filters are completely different.


OEM
05607298-1349-4979-85E7-0DFAEFBFBA13.jpeg

Aftermaket filter
57217CDF-4718-4840-95B3-8240AD82EDB8.jpeg
 

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What brand is the replacement non-OEM filter ? Virtually all racing organizations will not allow aftermarket spin-on filters because of past problems.
If they do not allow proper oil flow, excessive pressure can build up causing leaks at the mating surface and in extreme instances the threads can pull out causing catastrophic failure, oil all over the ground and your rear tire.
 
What brand is the replacement non-OEM filter ? Virtually all racing organizations will not allow aftermarket spin-on filters because of past problems.
If they do not allow proper oil flow, excessive pressure can build up causing leaks at the mating surface and in extreme instances the threads can pull out causing catastrophic failure, oil all over the ground and your rear tire.
Please see below:
FF923AA1-D5CF-4CEE-8570-7E63741DE700.jpeg
 
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I tend to trust the OEM filter that was spec'ed by the engineers for that specific engine, and in most cases, they're actually much cheaper than aftermarket. The only exception is on my Ducati's I use K&N because of the hex nut that helps with removal because the filter is mostly recessed.
 
The only exception is on my Ducati's I use K&N because of the hex nut that helps with removal because the filter is mostly recessed.
The ones that were leaking all over the place a year ago or so?

:unsure:
 
The ones that were leaking all over the place a year ago or so?

:unsure:

I’ll have to look into that. I stocked up and haven’t had to buy one recently (but I am on my last one), so maybe it was a bad batch. Never had a problem yet and this bike only runs at Mosport.
 
Have a closer look inside the filter
I see a new filter and a used one, can't really see what you are referring to.

How can you tell they perform differently just by looking inside?

Edit: I guess you are referring to the size of the holes? Hard to tell from the pics just how different they are.

I ask because I use hiflo filters, and have never had an issue with them. Never heard anything bad about them, either.
 
KN-204 had the recall a few years ago
where the nut is welded on was defective and could leak

I've seen nowhere of any other KN filters having that problem
I still buy them

I can't see how a different size hole in the steel mesh changes anything
the filter medium does the filtering
 
The big hole in the middle of the filter is the output - the main restriction is the filter media, which the oil flows through before going through the smaller holes you are referring to. While it is an assumption, I feel safe in assuming that whoever Suzuki contracted their filter out to met their specifications.
 
The first K&N filter I ever used, a KN-204, failed just as described above and left me stranded in northern BC a couple of years ago. Never again.
 
I stocked up on like 6 HF filters, actually the same model.
Used 3 of them so far and I honestly don't know how they perform. How do you tell? I have no leakage and oils always dirty (as in not honey colour) when I change it.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
 
I stocked up on like 6 HF filters, actually the same model.
Used 3 of them so far and I honestly don't know how they perform. How do you tell? I have no leakage and oils always dirty (as in not honey colour) when I change it.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

It is basically impossible for the average person to know. If you're very lucky, manufacturer will publish specs for bypass valve pressure, flow, and filtering efficiency (Hi-Flo doesn't) but you're still taking their word for it. The best you can do is judge by reputation and construction, and maybe not buy the cheapest filter on the market (e.g. "Certified" filters at CT, though for all I know they could still be perfectly fine)

Edit: Laboratory used oil filter analysis is also a thing I guess
 
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Wasn't the real underlying issue with the K&N's leaking were people using the nut to tighten down the filter when installing? as a result slightly warping it leading to weld failure. Those nuts are single use just to remove the filter. I've used the 204 exclusively and haven't had any leakage, although that's post recall.

You can also buy oil filter cutters if you really want to see what the paper filter is picking up.
 

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