What did you do to your Race/Track Bike today - 2014 | Page 40 | GTAMotorcycle.com

What did you do to your Race/Track Bike today - 2014

Mina said:
A question for those of you with BrakeTech Iron rotors. What kind of maintenance do these things need? I know they're not supposed to get wet or if they do, you're supposed to wipe them down ASAP. Is that the only issue or is there anything else? Just debating if I should get a set or not.
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My track bike lives outdoors under a cover. I gave the cover a full spray down with that stuff from canadian tire to waterproof tents. I just make sure that if the rotors or especially the brake pads get wet I take it for a few laps around the block while holding down the front brake (warning: CP1 wet pads hardly grip at all, but once warm/dry it'll grab hard/quick, be careful). I always put her away hot and dry instead of cold and wet and I haven't had any problems :) Braketech said the most damage comes when wet pads sit against the rotors for long periods of time.
 
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Mina said:
Well, that's a downer. :(
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My bike is always cleaned and washed each ride. After you dry the bike wipe the rotors dry and then 10min later wipe them again they won't get much rust on them.

The carbon pads are not meant for wet conditions.
 
What dricked said. My bikes get stored in an unheated garage all winter. So I take the front wheels off and keep in the house. Makes it a little harder to steal the bikes as well.
 
Speaking of storing track bikes, any thing special I need to do when storing outside for winter? First time I'll have a bike without a garage.
 
Brian P said:
If you are the type to wash your bike and keep it clean on occasion, these rotors will drive you nuts, because washing the bike involves water. So you either have a clean bike and nasty, rusty brake rotors, or a dirty bike and non-rusted rotors.

They work very well ... they just look awful if the bike has seen water and wasn't ridden immediately afterward.
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Round 5 last year, took a pic of your rotors BP
uquvady6.jpg
 
daisoman said:
Speaking of storing track bikes, any thing special I need to do when storing outside for winter? First time I'll have a bike without a garage.
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Good coolant flush, make sure the antifreeze is all through the system. Plug up everything if critters are still around in the fall-they will be instinctively making nests where ever they can.

I'd make sure it's on stands and know the rubber will most likely be garbage after the winter.

Not much else you can do other than fill the tank. I'm not much of a stabilizer believer in the cold, I would be much more inclined to stabilize the snow blower in the summer than my track bike in winter but that is just my opinion. Heat breaks down gas much more than cold.
 
Sitting in the rain that will happen. After a wash and wiped down they look like this.



I also wash my bike the day before I'm going to ride before I load it up. That way it doesn't have much time after being wet and being ridden. Riding in the rain you can't do much about it.
 
Found a good deal on a set of BrakeTech Axis Cobras. Thanks for the input guys.
 
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johnscruiser said:
Nice! Get those caliper pistons polished up and silky smooth wheel bearings and you're good to go :D

What pads you gonna run?
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I have about 4 (novice) days on my Ferodo XRACs, which is what Braketech recommends.

Question - Do I need to put on new pads or can I just use my existing ones? I'm slow, so I think they still have a lot of life left.

The rotors I bought are slightly used, should I have them honed and start the break-in procedure all over again or just put them on and ride?
 
BrakeTech recommends using Ferrodo pads with the Axis iron rotors, either the XRAC or CP1. I am using the CP1s, I found the initial bite with the XRAC was too aggressive and I was lifting the rear wheel without trying and when I didn't want to.


What did I do today?

- Installed the new QS switch I got from Bazzaz. If this one doesn't work I'm going to abandon the Bazzaz QS.
- Changed front sprocket
- Installed new CP1 pads
- Made a few small geometry changes
- Did a fiberglass repair on a mount point for the upper fairing.
 
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caboose56 said:
- Installed the new QS switch I got from Bazzaz. If this one doesn't work I'm going to abandon the Bazzaz QS.
.
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If you are switching I heard the HM QS is really good....


..I kid I kid
 
caboose56 said:
I had one on this bike before I switched to the Bazzaz unit and it worked well.
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Mine worked well but multiple people have had issues with it
 
Sold it.
 
Hello GTAM!!! It's been a long time since my last post and log in. :) hope everyone is doing well and riding safe!

I'm still riding a 2011 ZX6R stock bike and I've tracked it a TMP twice this summer and will be tracking it one last time at the end of the month. For now I will continue to use the bike for both street and track. Knowing that I plan to track the bike a lot more next year I will be adding a few bits and bobbles over the fall.


I plan to get...


- Woodcraft Rearsets, clip ons and replacement bars.
- Speigler front brake lines
- DID chain and sprocket kit
- not sure about exhaust


For the most part I see myself riding local tracks like TMP and CanTire MP therefore no real need to get to over 250km+ On a 600cc stock bike.


My question is should I keep the sprocket setup stock or go (-1,+2) like I've heard this is the thing to do???


Anyone with this setup on a zx6r that can comment? I really don't want to lose too much top end(sub 230km) just to get quicker times off the line. But if it means I can pass other 600s quicker then it might be a good compromise.

Thanks!
 
johnscruiser said:
http://gearingcommander.com will have all the answers :)

a -1/+2 (15/45) would get you a top speed of 256km/h so would be suitable for the tracks you plan on running.

A nice bit of kit: http://www.superbikesupply.com/mm5/...awasaki&Category_Code=520-conversion-kawasaki
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Thanks for the quick response and the cool links as well.


If I'm understanding the charts correctly then the -1/+2 (15/45) configuration actually tops out at 224km. To be honest I can't say that it's often I get to ride over 230km+ for very long anyway. And considering stock is 250km top speed then I can see why people do it.


Do I need to buy a speedohealer, or will the speedo be accurate?
 
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ROGO said:
Hello GTAM!!! It's been a long time since my last post and log in. :) hope everyone is doing well and riding safe!

I'm still riding a 2011 ZX6R stock bike and I've tracked it a TMP twice this summer and will be tracking it one last time at the end of the month. For now I will continue to use the bike for both street and track. Knowing that I plan to track the bike a lot more next year I will be adding a few bits and bobbles over the fall.


I plan to get...


- Woodcraft Rearsets, clip ons and replacement bars.
- Speigler front brake lines
- DID chain and sprocket kit
- not sure about exhaust


For the most part I see myself riding local tracks like TMP and CanTire MP therefore no real need to get to over 250km+ On a 600cc stock bike.


My question is should I keep the sprocket setup stock or go (-1,+2) like I've heard this is the thing to do???


Anyone with this setup on a zx6r that can comment? I really don't want to lose too much top end(sub 230km) just to get quicker times off the line. But if it means I can pass other 600s quicker then it might be a good compromise.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Don't buy exhaust, buy suspension
 
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