Motul 7100 vs 300V?

TekNinja81

TekNinja81

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Just a quick question; I'm currently using Motul 7100 in the bike, but was recently recommended to switch up to 300V.

What's the difference between the two? He explained it as being a double synthetic IIRC, and I could have heard wrong, but I only have basic knowledge of motor oils and I'm not sure what the benefits of this would be. Longer oil change intervals maybe? Cooler running temps? Other....?

I generally try to change my oil somewhere between every 5-6k, but wouldn't mind stretching that further if it can be safely done. I know some people who go closer to 10k intervals, but I'm not sure the savings are worth the risk of such a stretch.
 
Interesting. I'm thinking there's got to be more to it than 300v being more for racing/short change intervals, but that said I think I'll also be sticking to 7100. Significantly cheaper, and being on a sport tourer it's unlikely I'd ever be tracking it anyway.

Seems odd to me that the guy seemed so shocked that I was using 7100.... I'll have to ask why next time.
 
Could save some cash and go with Amsoil MCF as well ;)

-Jamie M.
 
Or rotella t6.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
 
300V is Motul's premier synthetic. It's excellent stuff. I use it in the street bikes because it last longer (5K or so, usually I do it at 3K) and the transmission definitely shifts better than anything else I've used. Motul is good oil.

I use 5100 (semi-synth) in the track bikes. Why? Because I dump it out every four to six hours of engine run time.
 
I bought Motul 300V as well, but I was told not to use it until Spring and that I should just use cheap engine oil for the winter (two oil change; one before winter and the other before spring).

Other people suggested just doing one oil change (before winter) and then start riding when spring comes?

IF I choose to do two oil changes, I don't have to replace the oil filter when spring comes right?
 
ipitythefoo said:
I bought Motul 300V as well, but I was told not to use it until Spring and that I should just use cheap engine oil for the winter (two oil change; one before winter and the other before spring).

Other people suggested just doing one oil change (before winter) and then start riding when spring comes?

IF I choose to do two oil changes, I don't have to replace the oil filter when spring comes right?
Click to expand...

I just did my winter oil change, and put in 300v cuz I had some residual stuff in 3 other bottles... I'll keep it in there probably till June, as it'll take me that long to put 6000kms on the bike between now and then. It's a full double ester synthetic - NOTHING like the old days of oil when the stuff would become questionnably acidic by just sitting in the motor for 3 months.

Changing oil before and after winter (effectively not riding with it) is a complete waste of money. Changing the filter would also be a huge waste (since it's not being used to filter anything?).

The main benefit of using high $$ synthetics is that they *last longer*, so why not use them accordingly?
 
ipitythefoo said:
I bought Motul 300V as well, but I was told not to use it until Spring and that I should just use cheap engine oil for the winter (two oil change; one before winter and the other before spring).

Other people suggested just doing one oil change (before winter) and then start riding when spring comes?

IF I choose to do two oil changes, I don't have to replace the oil filter when spring comes right?
Click to expand...

Don't forget to change spark plugs, and maybe change the whole engine while you're at it? And oil changes every week help too. /sarcasm. Sounds like such an amazing waste of premium oil and filters.
 
Agree with ViperZ. Put fresh oil in the bike in the fall, ride it until it's old in the spring.
 
you should not be using 300V in a street bike. Stick to 7100. While 300V will shift a little easier, it is intended for a race weekend and no more. The purpose is to squeeze out that extra HP or two, but is not intended for longevity. No benefit in using it for "winter storage" either.
 
smergy said:
you should not be using 300V in a street bike. Stick to 7100. While 300V will shift a little easier, it is intended for a race weekend and no more. The purpose is to squeeze out that extra HP or two, but is not intended for longevity. No benefit in using it for "winter storage" either.
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So i shouldnt be pulling spark plugs out and filling it to the gills with spendy oil?? You're not the boss of me!
 
ipitythefoo said:
I bought Motul 300V as well, but I was told not to use it until Spring and that I should just use cheap engine oil for the winter (two oil change; one before winter and the other before spring).

Other people suggested just doing one oil change (before winter) and then start riding when spring comes?

IF I choose to do two oil changes, I don't have to replace the oil filter when spring comes right?
Click to expand...

Stop listening to those people.
Always put new oil and filter before storage.
Ride bike in spring and change oil at 5k.

The Shell Rotella T6 stuff is pretty good and cheap as well.

When was the last time you changed your brake fluid and coolant?
 
http://www.motul.com/ca/en-US/products/11?f[range]=21

Note "street bikes" in technical data sheet:

http://www.motul.com/system/product...V_Factory_Line_15W-50_TDS_(GB).pdf?1303760348

They do not not recommend this oil for street use. It's just overkill.

Their FAQ also sells it as their top-line oil with no mention of race-only applicability.

http://www.motul.com/ca/en-us/community/447

That said, I usually use 5100. The ester it's based on is top quality stuff... and a lot of racers I've talked to swear by it.
 
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Reviving an old thread here... thought it might be fun to blow the dust off of this topic again, lol.

Seems to me that a lot of people are deciding on 7100 for their street supersport/superbike. Motul's own site suggest this oil meets OEM specs for full synthetic engine lubrication. Harley-Davidson apparently states that 7100 meets their requirements and I've heard from people I trust that this oil is preferred for 4 stroke twin cylinder engines.

The argument against 300V is that it is "racing only" and somehow despite the manufacturer's own statements that it is more stable, has greater power efficiency, has improved shear resistance, etc., these properties are somehow short lived. (?) So somehow it performs great for some period of time, then hits a cliff and drops off to being useless? Why wouldn't you expect that the performance of different oils in the same environment would degrade in a similar pattern, but at different rates? How can a "racing" oil perform poorer than a "general use" oil when it is not being pushed? No I'm serious, if anyone can answer this I'm interested.

Right. It's also not like these street supersports/superbikes are being ridden as hard as they would on the track... really? So if I do one track day a month and count the number trips to redline, how do you think that will compare to someone who has a street version of my same bike (2009 GSXR750) who rides it 5 times a week, or about 20 times more a month? Oh no, that's street riding, it's not anywhere as hard on the engine (or oil) as a track bike... I've never heard anyone redline a bike in downtown Toronto... :D And of course we're not discussing the long idle times and heat generated when the street bike is stuck in traffic...

Definitely the manufacturers are not helping themselves by publishing vague recommendations for use. On the Motul site if you search for what oil to use with any I4 sport bike, you get 7100. The product info for 300V states you can use it in street bikes and scooters, but they don't say which ones. They also say that 300V improves longevity and gearbox protection. That might be a positive thing for streetbike owners... or even Harleys!

Shaman you make good sense, I used 5100 in my 600 for the same reasons. I could *probably* save some $ by doing the same with my 750. But then there's the hook - I'd *probably* be fine, but I prefer to *definitely* use what I'm comfortable with.

All this science and ultimately we're left to the marketing department...
 
Ugggghhh,oil threads.Someone show me some broken motor bits from not using expensive mc specific oils please.I will always use what is on sale at Crappy Tire or Walmart.Just make sure that i have the correct grade and change it frequently.5k to 8k for street or every 2nd trackday.
 
Wingboy said:
Ugggghhh,oil threads.Someone show me some broken motor bits from not using expensive mc specific oils please.I will always use what is on sale at Crappy Tire or Walmart.Just make sure that i have the correct grade and change it frequently.5k to 8k for street or every 2nd trackday.
Click to expand...

Yeah that was my point. Bet you can't refer to actual data for your decision though. Not saying I disagree. But the argument goes both ways.
 
Wingboy said:
Ugggghhh,oil threads.Someone show me some broken motor bits from not using expensive mc specific oils please.I will always use what is on sale at Crappy Tire or Walmart.Just make sure that i have the correct grade and change it frequently.5k to 8k for street or every 2nd trackday.
Click to expand...

You've seen "The world's fastest Indian"? Over Burt's bed he had a shelf labelled "Offerings to the god of speed". I have a shelf like that, almost exclusively oil failure.
When I was racing an Ex500, I was going through a lot of motors (don't try to race an Ex500, it is an exercise in futility, but you get good at building motors). When I split a set of cases on a parts motor if I could smell diesel oil I knew that the left crank journal was spun.
 
bitzz said:
When I was racing an Ex500, I was going through a lot of motors (don't try to race an Ex500, it is an exercise in futility, but you get good at building motors). When I split a set of cases on a parts motor if I could smell diesel oil I knew that the left crank journal was spun.
Click to expand...

If you were to ride the ex500 on the street instead of the track, what motor oil would you recommend. Just your opinion I know but Dino or synthetic? 10w, 15w?

Thanks
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