What oil should I put in my bike before winter storage?

Drennan57

Drennan57

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Beating a dead horse with this one I'm sure. But I bought a bike with no owners manual and its my first bike.

When you guys do your oil change before putting the bike away do you use the "recommended" weight or something thicker/thinner etc.

It's going to be my first oil change and I'm doing it myself so I wanted to ask you guys what you recommend. It's a 2002 CBR600F4i 36k. Thanks in advance.
 
Drennan57 said:
Beating a dead horse with this one I'm sure. But I bought a bike with no owners manual and its my first bike.

When you guys do your oil change before putting the bike away do you use the "recommended" weight or something thicker/thinner etc.

It's going to be my first oil change and I'm doing it myself so I wanted to ask you guys what you recommend. It's a 2002 CBR600F4i 36k. Thanks in advance.
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The oil that you want in the bike when you're going to be riding it in the spring. 9 times out of 10 it's a motorcycle 10w40 oil that is JASO-MA rated (that is on sale). If it's your first oil change, don't strip the threads on the drain plug (also a good idea for subsequent oil changes).
 
No manual...look for the service manual pdf online. Service manual not owners manual. This will have the torque specs for the oil drain bolt. You don't want to strip that bolt.

NOTE: there is a post in the technical section with manuals but most of the links on the first page are dead.

Update: here's a link to a manual. http://stephygee.com/ click here skip intro scroll to the bottom and click on your model to download free factory service manual for your specific model (from cbrforum)

Are you buying your oil at a bike shop? Ask them, that's what I do. But it is going to be what Twisted said, 10w40 that is JASO-MA rated.
 
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Thank you. An yes I am leaning towards Motul 10w-40. I believe the previous owner used Motul as well.

I am a little worried about torque specs on stuff tho, don't have a torque wrench so I don't know how to go about that.
 
Drennan57 said:
Thank you. An yes I am leaning towards Motul 10w-40. I believe the previous owner used Motul as well.

I am a little worried about torque specs on stuff tho, don't have a torque wrench so I don't know how to go about that.
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I don't even bother with that as the torque spec is always given for dry threads, so you can still strip the pan that way. You can eyeball the torque spec for wet threads by subtracting about... a third? (I actually forget and Google is being useless at providing a reference) However it is a good idea to always remove the old crush washer and install a new one. Cue oil change magicians that say they never replace the crush washer, always win at Russian roulette, have never gotten sick from taking the TTC, etc
 
You might as well price a socket for your rear axle too while you're there.
 
TwistedKestrel said:
I don't even bother with that as the torque spec is always given for dry threads, so you can still strip the pan that way. You can eyeball the torque spec for wet threads by subtracting about... a third? (I actually forget and Google is being useless at providing a reference) However it is a good idea to always remove the old crush washer and install a new one. Cue oil change magicians that say they never replace the crush washer, always win at Russian roulette, have never gotten sick from taking the TTC, etc
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If you do your own oil changes, and get your filters from a dealership, I usually get at least a 6 pack at a time which usually gets you a discount, and they usually throw in the crush washers for free.

Anyone ever run a fumoto (ball type) drain valve? I've run the for years on multiple cars. Love the drain-pan-free oil changes. I put a hose on the end of the valve, and drain the used oil directly into an old oil jug. Never tried putting one on a bike though.
 
if you're one of those guys that changes his oil again in spring even though it hasn't been used just get the cheap stuff from CT
 
On seasonal engines I always believe in a fresh change in the spring before the engine is started for the first time, thereby removing any moisture that may have accumulated during the winter months. Leaving used oil in for the winter is pretty harmless in this scenario.

Not starting the engine during the winter at all (unless it can be driven and brought up to full operating temperature) will help alleviate moisture issues, but hey, if there's any there that accumulated regardless during a warm spell in the winter (coupled with a garage that gets even warmer from the sun, for example) followed by a cold night, I'd like to get it out before the engine circulates it around in the spring.
 
The same one you use any other time unless you're going to ride it over the winter. In that case you might want to look into a "winter weight" oil.

Moisture shouldn't be a big deal in your oil come spring as it will evaporate as soon as you reach operating temperature.
 
The correct viscosity of oil is vital for trouble free operation of the engine. You should be able to find yours with an internet search.
Just google yourbike specs
Spirit oil or synthetic? Many older bikes are not rated for synthetic oil. It can cause the seals to fail. While on the website see if synthetic oil is suggested.
I use Spectro4 spirit oil 10w40 in my 1990 BMW. Many folks on the forum swear by synthetic, but it's not suggested for my bike.
How you are going to winterize your bike will determine if you should change the oil at freeze up. If you will run it at regular intervals to keep the battery charged, then change it in the fall and again in the spring. If you are going to pull the battery and let it sit, just change it in the spring.

The correct torque is essential. A few years ago one of my group was riding down the road with us when the plug went flying and all the oil drained out.
We found the plug, replaced it and between the group had enough spare oil to get him to a shop in the next town.
But if he had been solo in the middle of nowhere he might still be there.
 
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statsman said:
The correct viscosity of oil is vital for trouble free operation of the engine. You should be able to find yours with an internet search.
Just google yourbike specs
Spirit oil or synthetic? Many older bikes are not rated for synthetic oil. It can cause the seals to fail. While on the website see if synthetic oil is suggested.
I use Spectro4 spirit oil 10w40 in my 1990 BMW. Many folks on the forum swear by synthetic, but it's not suggested for my bike.
How you are going to winterize your bike will determine if you should change the oil at freeze up. If you will run it at regular intervals to keep the battery charged, then change it in the fall and again in the spring. If you are going to pull the battery and let it sit, just change it in the spring.

The correct torque is essential. A few years ago one of my group was riding down the road with us when the plug went flying and all the oil drained out.
We found the plug, replaced it and between the group had enough spare oil to get him to a shop in the next town.
But if he had been solo in the middle of nowhere he might still be there.
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I don't believe any of this is true. Proper weight barely matters (as long as it's close and there's oil in it, you'll be fine). Synthetic causing seals to fail is an old myth. And I think I may have torqued an oil drain bolt once.

I guess some bikes or cars might be more picky. I know the VW TDIs are.
 
statsman said:
If you will run it at regular intervals to keep the battery charged, then change it in the fall and again in the spring.
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Don't do this
 
Am I the only one that just puts their bike on a tender then starts it in the spring? Or the occasional nice winter days? Just talking battery here. I change oil in the fall. Also put Shell 91 and CT stabilizer in the tank.

Sent from a Samsung Galaxy far, far away using Tapatalk
 
Joe Bass said:
Am I the only one that just puts their bike on a tender then starts it in the spring? Or the occasional nice winter days? Just talking battery here. I change oil in the fall. Also put Shell 91 and CT stabilizer in the tank.

Sent from a Samsung Galaxy far, far away using Tapatalk
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You're probably one of the few that actually ride it during those months and a tender only is fine. Mine hibernates like a bear and waits till spring.
 
Joe Bass said:
Am I the only one that just puts their bike on a tender then starts it in the spring? Or the occasional nice winter days? Just talking battery here. I change oil in the fall. Also put Shell 91 and CT stabilizer in the tank.

Sent from a Samsung Galaxy far, far away using Tapatalk
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I dont do anything to any of my bikes, I store them in a heated garage but even when I didn't, I have never done anything to them for winter. No stabilizer, no oil change, not battery tender, nothing......Never had a problem in spring
 
As a few have touched on, starting during the winter and NOT driving it until EVERYTHING (including your drivetrain) reaches full operating temperature is just a recipe for drawing moisture into places where it shouldn't be.

For the battery, get an electronic charger or a tender and leave it be.

I was always (and will probably be this year) one of those crazies who'd take my bike out on a winter day if an unusually warm one came along (6 or 8 degrees feels awesome in January or February, no?) but I'd never start it unless I was committing to go somewhere.
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