Sourcing parts for an 87 Honda CBR600F | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Sourcing parts for an 87 Honda CBR600F

bitzz said:
From where I'm sitting, a 2001 is NOT an old bike. Newer than anything I've owned.
... but I find it MUCH easier to source parts for ol' Ducatis, Nortons, Triumphs and Guzzis than not so old Hondas... a LOT cheaper too.
I needed a first gear for a 350/500 unit Triumph: one phone call, $50 USD later, it's on the way.
Need a top end for a '70s T3 Moto Guzzi? $850 USD COMPLETE. 2 new pistons, rings, pins, gaskets and 2 NEW Nicosil lined jugs All quality stuff
It took me two years to find an air box for a '89 RC31 Honda. Good luck if you need a crankshaft!... or a FUEL PUMP... or a fuel tank. There ain't none.
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Hey, it's not old to me, either! In my mind, 2001 was about three weeks ago...

But I quickly discovered it was old in the eyes of the parts departments when I tried to get parts. It's past the magic 20 years now, so officially old.

And I think Honda is way better than the other modern manufacturers when it comes to keeping parts available. The Hawk GT/Bros was a niche bike that sold poorly in very small numbers, and then exploded in popularity after it had been discontinued (especially with racers who butchered bits to squeeze power - I remember drilling out or cutting the top off the airbox was a popular mod), so it's just about worst-case scenario for parts availability. I'm assuming you put the word out on Hawk GT forums and Facebook pages? With the RC51, lots of serviceable bikes get parted out because a few hard-to-find individual bits collectively end up being worth more than the bikes sell for complete. Uncut fenders, CDI boxes, coil packs, clean fairings, crank bearings, etc. If you find a clean, original, full Ti Akrapovic system, you can buy two other running RC51's just for what you could sell it for...
 
For a guy with a who just got his 68 & 76 Hondas running I agree 2001 is next to brand new.

OP best of luck with the Hurricane. It's a classic. You do not have to justify the cost. Call it a hobby and carry on.
 
When I lived in Guelph in the late 80's I watched a white Hurricane live outside one winter. Kind of broke my heart.....
 
RC-31 said:
If it's the same as the RC31 fuel pump then there is a set of electric points inside that usually go and can be replaced cheaply. You just have to take the pump apart to fix it.

If you can blow through the inlet (and hear the br-br-br-br) and not suck through the inlet then the mechanical part of the pump is probably okay.
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I am going to try this, this weekend hopefully. I fully expect my wife to say “why are you letting that dirty thing that smells like gas touch your mouth??”
 
RC-31 said:
If it's the same as the RC31 fuel pump then there is a set of electric points inside that usually go and can be replaced cheaply. You just have to take the pump apart to fix it.

If you can blow through the inlet (and hear the br-br-br-br) and not suck through the inlet then the mechanical part of the pump is probably okay.

Amazon.com: K&L Supply Universal Fuel Pump Point Switch Kit 18-4615 : Automotive

Buy K&L Supply Universal Fuel Pump Point Switch Kit 18-4615: Fuel System - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com

The above link is only to illustrate the general set up of your pump. This kit might not fit.
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I got to see my bike this weekend and take a look. If I blow through the inlet I can definitely hear something - not sure if it's a br-br-br-br - sounds almost like a fly buzzing around though? Sucking through the inlet, I don't hear any sound. I forgot to see whether I could actually draw air through the inlet, but I don't think I could.

The shop manual suggests shorting two wires that connect to the fuel pump relay, with the ignition on. Each time I connect the wires I hear a single faint pop and then nothing else. Is that right? I didn't connect the inlet to any fluid yet, as I assume hearing only one sound meant it wouldn't be pumping anything anyways.
 
One click (or a limited number of clicks) like that would mean that it has successfully pressurized the fuel system beyond to the preset limit of its internal regulator (if the pump were functioning correctly).

It wouldn't do this with the inlet dry.
 
RC-31 said:
One click (or a limited number of clicks) like that would mean that it has successfully pressurized the fuel system beyond to the preset limit of its internal regulator (if the pump were functioning correctly).

It wouldn't do this with the inlet dry.
Click to expand...
So it sounds like my pump might be working ? Awesome!
 
Darn ! Is this likely a problem with the electrical parts that I believe you mentioned could be replaced? Could it be a problem with the relay?
 
If you're putting 12V to the pump directly and that's how it behaves then it won't be the (external) relay.

The points inside the pump itself are a common failure point as the pump gets old.
 
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