right side of my cbr 125r Speed/RPM cluster stopped working!? | GTAMotorcycle.com

right side of my cbr 125r Speed/RPM cluster stopped working!?

Bolt Speedman

Bolt Speedman

Well-known member
so i was giving someone a lift and halfway there i noticed my rpm and engine temp guage stopped working. these are both on the right side of the cluster and also my highbeam stopped working at the same time.

im guessing its just a blown fuse but has anyone got any other ideas or had a similar problem?

thanks
 
the bike still runs fine though?

check for loose wiring connections behind the instrument panel or a blown fuse.
 
yep it runs fine. i just finished checking some of the fuses and there was a blown 10 amp fuse which i replaced but still nothing:S thats making me wonder what the heck that blown fuse was for that i just replaced :p

im gona check the wiring under the inst panel now
 
just double checked the replaced fuze and it blew the new fuze i put in ::SSSS ugggh but at least im 99% sure its the fuze now. would there be a reason that it blew the fuze again right away? im gona go to C T to get some new fuses
 
Don't keep replacing fuses. Now that you know that the fuse blew again when you put a new one in, that's a good diagnostic sign.

You have a short circuit somewhere in that wiring. Find out what that fuse is for, and looking up what the circuit is. People here can help with that, including looking at the service manual, so you can start to track down where the short circuit is.
 
so i took off the fairings and tried to locate where the short circut was and / or where there was a wire touching the frame to ground the circut improperly and i couldnt find a thing! D: so since i doubt i will be able to fix this myself, is there a mechanic or a place anyone could reccomend that i take my bike to to have the problem located and fixed?

im not by any means wealthy or in a position to be pouring more money into my cbr 125 any guesses as to wether or not this will be really costly to get a mechanic to fix this?
 
its 2007 and i dont think theres a warranty anymore for me :(
as for the mods i havent done anything that crosed paths with any wiring but there were 3 owners before me and it looks like someone wrapped black electrical tape around most of the wires (im not sure if this is how they come brand new but it looks like almost anyone could have done that with the tape). ive had the bike for over a year and havent had any wiring issues until now D:
 
Did anything else on the bike stop working together with the instruments?

I'm guessing that there were other things not working also, because the instrument cluster doesn't have a dedicated fuse.

The fault may lie with whatever else is on the same circuit as instrument-circuit power. Give me a few minutes and I'll look it up in the shop manual.
 
Oops, I forgot about this (buried in work which is now done).

The white/green power wire is common between the tach, fuel gauge, and coolant temperature gauge. (You probably haven't noticed that the fuel gauge is holding position due to failed power supply rather than showing the current, up-to-date fuel level ... yet.) It is not shared with instrument lighting and the high beam indicator is fed to the cluster from a different source (more on this later).

White/green goes to the 3-pin connector in the cluster wiring, not the big connector.

White/green is fed from "sub fuse C" which feeds the instruments and the headlight ... and therein, most likely, lies your problem (and why the high beam indicator went out ... it went out because the entire headlight circuit is out!)

White/green goes through the harness to the high/low beam selector switch, and from there, the circuit obviously splits and goes to high beam (and indicator lamp) or low beam bulbs.

Question: Has your bike been modified so that it uses high and low beam together? If so, inspect the inside of your high/low beam selector switch to make sure someone didn't make a mess of the wiring and result in a ground-fault there.

High and low beam together should work correctly (and not blow the fuse) provided that the bulbs are the standard wattage, not higher-powered replacement bulbs.

If that's not it, the fault is most likely with the headlight bulb itself; they've been known to short out internally. Try switching to low beam and replacing the fuse again. If it works OK then there's your problem.

If the failure occurs on either high or low beam then inspect the internals of the high/low beam selector switch and the wiring leading to that switch.

Still stumped? To find out if the failure is in the harness itself, unplug the 3-wire connector to the instruments and unplug the big multi-pin connector to the switchgear on the left handlebar. At this point, there is no load on that circuit. If it blows the fuse in that condition ... you need to trace the wiring in the main harness back to the fuse, which is not much fun.

I don't think you'll get to that point. If the fault is not inside the high/low beam switch due to a butchered modification, the fault is most likely with the headlight bulb that you were using at the time (sounds like high beam).
 
wow thanks for the very in-depth response this is super helpfull and has the potential to save me a lot of money!

The high beam and low beams have not been modified to run simetaneously.

first thing tomorow ill remove the high and low beam bulbs to see if that will stop the fusefrom blowing
and it is the 3rd fuse (10a) that keeps blowing.

the high beam indicator isnt working, neither is the highbeam and im not sure if the low beam is working because the bulb burnt out months ago (i think like 8 months).

the failure seemed to be happening wether the beam selector was set to the low beam or the highbeam but im pretty sure it initailly stopped working when it was set to the high beam.

thanks a lot brian p, for the detailed instructions! and thanks Itiswhatitis, horizon xp and caboose
ill let yall know what the status is tomorow after i finish narrowing down what the problem could be.
 
Yeah, based on Brian's description, I'd say it's the bulbs. Take out both, put in the fuse, and see what happens. If it all works again, get new bulbs. They're not expensive, maybe $10 each from CT.
 
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