sburns
Well-known member
I change all 3 oils when the crank oil is due (5000), eventhough you can do the primary and transmission oil every second time. It's not much extra to do.
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Is my Clutch Toast - or normal wear?
- Thread starter sburns
- Start date
Trials
Well-known member
That's AMSOIL 20W-50 Synthetic
certainly not what I would be using for a wet clutch and a chain.
or for the simple little spur gear transmission.
Neither of those applications warrant a 20w multi-grade engine oil.
sburns
Well-known member
?
? It works, I don't have to buy separate oils, and is always in stock. Pricing also hasn't changed due to UD$ or CVOID.
And it 's recommended by HD. Hopefully they know what works ?
sburns
Well-known member
Update!
Finally was able to get back to this. F9 order was delayed because of a part from the US, which was the EBC friction plates. But they offered to split the shipment. So I got the screw adjustment plate and steel plates. I really wanted to try out the screw adjustment plate so I put it all back together using the old clutch plates. One thing I noticed when I removed them there was a spring plate in the wrong place. I put it back in the correct order now.
Just got back from a test run. Clutch shifts good, and so far hasn't slipped out of adjustment.
Will go for a longer test ride tomorrow.
Finally was able to get back to this. F9 order was delayed because of a part from the US, which was the EBC friction plates. But they offered to split the shipment. So I got the screw adjustment plate and steel plates. I really wanted to try out the screw adjustment plate so I put it all back together using the old clutch plates. One thing I noticed when I removed them there was a spring plate in the wrong place. I put it back in the correct order now.
Just got back from a test run. Clutch shifts good, and so far hasn't slipped out of adjustment.
Will go for a longer test ride tomorrow.
sburns
Well-known member
Re activating my thread with an Update!
So as you might recall I was having clutch adjustment problems (adjustment not staying).
Yep it was still happening since I started this thread.
The new clutch pack helped, but only with the transition in and out of the friction zone.
HD says to adjust the clutch cold. Makes sense. But since I was only doing a 1/4 turn I think this is where the issues started. I was doing it this way to compensate for a previously stretched cable, and not knowing any better. The manual states 1/2 to full turn when you back off the adjuster. I believe this allows the clutch to expand when it warms up. 1/4 isn't enough space, so when I would go for a ride the clutch when expanded would "pop" the adjustment out of place.
Next was the cable, HD says to allow 1/6 to 1/8 slack when you pull at the sleeve. Sure I did that. But once that clutch warmed up that slack would increase and also throw the clutch out of position. Since I've been doing it "wrong" I think my cable stretched, so pulling at the sleeve was missleading.
Re did the clutch adjustment. Backed off 1/2 (sets the friction zone further out)
Start up bike, test clutch, feel it warm up, feel the grip go slack.
Tighten up cable more so removes slack.
Test ride bike, feel grip go slack, pull over, tighen cable a couple of turns, removes slack.
Clutch is finally good!
So when I mean buy good, I can find neutral, can shift up and down through gears when clutch pulled fully in, no stiffness. Grip has constant pressure all the way in and goes all the way out when released. When the bike is fully warmed up only a bit of slack is noticed.
I'm sure most of this might be familar territory for you, but I'm still learning some of this stuff.
Anyhow I probably have another stetched cable and plan to replace it. Might do the clutch pack as well. At least I finally got someplace on this.
So as you might recall I was having clutch adjustment problems (adjustment not staying).
Yep it was still happening since I started this thread.
The new clutch pack helped, but only with the transition in and out of the friction zone.
HD says to adjust the clutch cold. Makes sense. But since I was only doing a 1/4 turn I think this is where the issues started. I was doing it this way to compensate for a previously stretched cable, and not knowing any better. The manual states 1/2 to full turn when you back off the adjuster. I believe this allows the clutch to expand when it warms up. 1/4 isn't enough space, so when I would go for a ride the clutch when expanded would "pop" the adjustment out of place.
Next was the cable, HD says to allow 1/6 to 1/8 slack when you pull at the sleeve. Sure I did that. But once that clutch warmed up that slack would increase and also throw the clutch out of position. Since I've been doing it "wrong" I think my cable stretched, so pulling at the sleeve was missleading.
Re did the clutch adjustment. Backed off 1/2 (sets the friction zone further out)
Start up bike, test clutch, feel it warm up, feel the grip go slack.
Tighten up cable more so removes slack.
Test ride bike, feel grip go slack, pull over, tighen cable a couple of turns, removes slack.
Clutch is finally good!
So when I mean buy good, I can find neutral, can shift up and down through gears when clutch pulled fully in, no stiffness. Grip has constant pressure all the way in and goes all the way out when released. When the bike is fully warmed up only a bit of slack is noticed.
I'm sure most of this might be familar territory for you, but I'm still learning some of this stuff.
Anyhow I probably have another stetched cable and plan to replace it. Might do the clutch pack as well. At least I finally got someplace on this.
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