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I’ve used the PA one shown by the OP for years. I don’t use it to suck the fluid down but to prevent brake fluid from getting on the calipers/pads/master after bleeding the traditional way. It just acts as a tube with a container really. It’s nice to have when installing new lines though.

Not really but if that makes you feel better it’s ok.

How did I miss this gem?! This is gold I tell ya! I might just come out and watch next year to see how this thunderdome match plays out.

Needs = all of it Budget = see above

The best thing about not racing for a season, no winter maintenance. The worst part about not racing for a season, not doing the winter maintenecae the winter before so now you have to do it this winter. Hopefully it’s not so cold.

It would be pretty cool laying down a big blackie out of turn 3 at Mosport while laying on the horn durning a national.

If I’m driving 4hrs to see a bike I’d like to know if it’s been butchered or built properly. Just saying, if I have an opportunity to post up pics of my handy work I do it especially if I’m trying to sell it. I’d hate to show up and find mismatched fasteners, scratches all over the top triple...

I get that most of us or really anyone looking at a bike like this will know that you need to see it in person but I feel like maybe pictures of the bike itself with/without fairings would be a better way to advertise. Just saying, I’d be more interested in the quality of the build than action...

I tried Rotella twice and within 1000-1500km the bike started to shift like a farm tractor. I never did a ton of miles so the more expensive oil was only changed twice a year or so and wasn’t a big concern. I’d rather the bike ride nice than save $60 over a season.

16/42, and I use the gears caboose recommended in the turns how he’s explained. The pro that said they use second out out of the hairpin, are they on a 1000?

Why ask for help if you’re not going to listen? He told you how to improve you’re lap times. I told you why you’re loosing time and getting out pulled by a 600. Good luck.

You’re getting out driven on to the back straight because you’re in 2nd and your rpms are too low. You’re racing against pros, not amateurs. Listen to what caboose is telling you. If you set you’re gearing properly, how he’s telling you to ride the track is the fast way around. You can try it...

Had one blow an O-ring on me. OEM only for me now and I’ve only ever had one problematic filter which was from the factory on a new bike.

Why? Race SS then. As much as I like seeing racing affordable I want to see unobtainium parts with trick setups and the best riders using them. Canada doesn’t need it, the US can sort of support it. WSBK, why does that need to be dumbed down? It’s factories racing factories or guys with deep...

Yep, MA has real superbikes. Our superish bikes aren’t up where there’s are and too modified to run SS so you’re either detuning or going into a gunfight with a knife. They have actual factory teams, we have guys who are making the best of it with what’s available and what their checkbook...

Well there goes that plan.

Better than nothing. So if I win the pro sbk championship I could break even with the other pay outs as long as I only hire one guy to work and don’t crash! Bonus!

Funny, most of the ones that recovered and recovered the quickest were on the throttle. I guess I’ll just keep riding in a responsible manner in the designated areas.

I’m not sure there’s a more serviced bike. So I should just keep it under 140km/h? What about the other 5 gears?

But if I speed up it makes things worse so I might go into a full speed wobble! Oh man this is scary stuff! What should I do?! I’m so confused now...