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Load test battery. Surface charge will give you a false reading on regular Volt meter. If you don't have proper tools to measure the battery under load, you can do it with plain old volt meter while holding the started button. And check all of the charing system when you get your bike...

how does one confuse a competition with practice...

I have a #270 that i can part with. Cyclewerx were unable to order a particular size for me since nobody apparently manufactures that specific size. Ted was able to sell me the size i needed. But Cyclewerx is my goto shop.

Still imo bad electric contact. Check the wires, particularly around the fusebox. If it's an old style glass tube fusebox then the spring loaded finger that hold the fuse in place are known to fail, but i think yours are blade style fuses. In either case - bad contact that shakes off...

My bike has short plug caps and when wet they will sometimes arc through air onto the body of the bike or give a really weak spark. Adding some dielectric grease around the boot solved that issue. You could have corrosion on spark plug wires which gets bad with weather - take of the plug boot...

Let's take this thread back on track. How does OP suggest we help with the process? Remember just because something is legal to do, doesn't mean you have to do it. Don't feel safe doing it? Then do not do it.

try riders plus.

in addition to the float or needle issues you are likely to have a leaky petcock too.

How about listing some paved twisties? Is the data available for download?

Holy smokes that person parting out, add up and you can buy several used radians for that price. I'm interested in cluster + exhaust. Both asking prices are 250$ that's unreasonable

sure, filter is a filter, right? although i upgraded mine to reusable k&n

I knew about self canceling, but i thought you knew that. What i was going on about though is the FAST flashing indicative of one of the light bulbs not being connected, thus the loose contact.

It was. I'm sad to say. But it has had some hidden problems, like the exhaust "H" mount was barely hanging on with internal rust. And later on an accident that the bike hasn't fully recovered from. It took me 6 month to heal up. So unfortunately exhaust + gauge cups are rushed up...

https://plus.google.com/photos/114939886152000413082/albums/6002513224674435681?authkey=CO-svJnL143_aw

It's an awesome, peppy bike. Just gotta fix my forkseals :( But yes, i'm still riding it.

Any chance you can help me do my fork seal replacement? I am lacking specialty tools for a yx600.I'm sure we can get away with some 3/4" ratchet extensions and a PVC pipe though.

Take out the light bulbs out of the sockets and inspect for oxydation. Clean them. Make sure they are seated correctly. Next look where the connectors are [i have a yx600 similar to FJ] mine were under the headlight bucket, and make sure that connectors are not oxidized, and make sure they...

Perfect, glad i was able to help. You can clearly see the wear on the rubber grommets + rubber washers from the age. I kept the old gasket too :D just in case. While i think it should be ok to reuse it, i do believe they tend to get squished with age :) Also with regards to torque value IIRC...

i had a 23 yr old gasket on my radian + old grommets. Changed them all for good measure. I also recommend check your valve clearance even if it's not due for service, you are under there, can't hurt. And will give you updated records on their wear. grommets. : outer bolts: While i...

Grommets are indeed the right solution. Inspect your gasket before you put it in. Don't forget to retorque if starts weeping again. Also synthetic will leak more. Torque settings - check the manual