Played garage Tetrus and got the icebike out where I can get to it. Slipped the battery in a hope to hear it running today. Once I know it's good to go it will loaded for a trip my buddy's place. He lives about 10 minutes from Rice Lake and he's willing to let me store it there.
What did you do in your garage today..?
- Thread starter Hack
- Start date
Gaoler
Well-known member
Buddy snapped the mirror off his '78 R80.
Cleaned up the end a bit, drilled and tap'd a bit....
This should work... OEM had a threaded shaft that went down through a hole with a nut on the end to secure it.
This is just the 180deg. of that,,,
The R80/7 in question before the mirror mis-hap
Cleaned up the end a bit, drilled and tap'd a bit....
This should work... OEM had a threaded shaft that went down through a hole with a nut on the end to secure it.
This is just the 180deg. of that,,,
The R80/7 in question before the mirror mis-hap
Last edited:
With the new (to me) bike, I needed new paddock stands as the Duc had a single sided swing are and I never had a front stand.
Ace moto in Milton has these for 130 cash for the pair. They are the same as the Venom stands that you see on Amazon for 120 so after tax it's the same price.
The only problem with these stands is the wheels. I had looked up inline wheels but the price would increase the cost to over what better stands would be anyways so I figured I would just deal with it.
Last week, Google being the spying thing that it is, served me up a Canadian Tire ad for these wheels that they were blowing out for under 4 dollars per pack of 4.
It cost me $8.88 all in for 8 80mm (3.15") dia wheels.
I have lots of spare bearings at work left over from projects that just gather dust, so those were free.
The shafts on the stands were not what you would call 'precise' so I did need to do some fitting so the .375" ID bearings would sit, but that is kind of what I do, so no biggie.
Two minutes of assembly later and I have some sweet, easy rolling stands.
Ace moto in Milton has these for 130 cash for the pair. They are the same as the Venom stands that you see on Amazon for 120 so after tax it's the same price.
The only problem with these stands is the wheels. I had looked up inline wheels but the price would increase the cost to over what better stands would be anyways so I figured I would just deal with it.
Last week, Google being the spying thing that it is, served me up a Canadian Tire ad for these wheels that they were blowing out for under 4 dollars per pack of 4.
It cost me $8.88 all in for 8 80mm (3.15") dia wheels.
I have lots of spare bearings at work left over from projects that just gather dust, so those were free.
The shafts on the stands were not what you would call 'precise' so I did need to do some fitting so the .375" ID bearings would sit, but that is kind of what I do, so no biggie.
Two minutes of assembly later and I have some sweet, easy rolling stands.
Gaoler
Well-known member
Buddy snapped the mirror off his '78 R80.
Cleaned up the end a bit, drilled and tap'd a bit....
This should work... OEM had a threaded shaft that went down through a hole with a nut on the end to secure it.
This is just the 180deg. of that,,,
The R80/7 in question before the mirror mis-hap
Update:
'Repair seems to work as intended
Can't even notice from the riders POV...
Not only is it the day I park the bike, but... Today is also my 30th wedding anniversary...
If you’ve been married for 30 years your probably old enough to remember this. Happy Anniversary!'Patient is on the table..
'Tucked away 'til spring...
Gaoler
Well-known member
Oil filter and oil change, fuel top up and fuel stabilizer added. Cover is on and parked.
Now the honey do list for the inside of the house begins. I’ve got some base boards to install from a room Reno from last year and a few more things to get started on. At least the garage is organized and ready for me.
Now the honey do list for the inside of the house begins. I’ve got some base boards to install from a room Reno from last year and a few more things to get started on. At least the garage is organized and ready for me.
Built it years ago for a $100 Ice bike challenge. (Spoiler I spent $80 on new purpose made studs and blew the limit)
Motor was stuck and I rebuilt it. The velocity stacks are made from plastic urine sample jars with the bottom cut out and screen hot-glued in the lid. To make sure they don't clog with snow (when I dump it) I made shields from empty oil jugs - they have big louvers on the inside. The rear pegs are being used with a GP shift pattern and home made rear brake pedal.
Last edited:
Mad Mike
Well-known member
You could join me on my ride up the Wetum in January.
matt365
Well-known member
Clutch swap on my str675r.
Wasn't slipping yet, but was near the end of the cables allowable adjustment (clutch side and lever).
Some steel plates looked a little burnt.
Then an oil change.
Hopefully it feels a bot more snappy, and I get one more ride before it gets stored.
Sent from my SM-S921W using Tapatalk
Wasn't slipping yet, but was near the end of the cables allowable adjustment (clutch side and lever).
Some steel plates looked a little burnt.
Then an oil change.
Hopefully it feels a bot more snappy, and I get one more ride before it gets stored.
Sent from my SM-S921W using Tapatalk
pecan_choco_hurricane
Well-known member
I drained the carbs on my xj650. I was very intimidated at first but it was pretty easy; just make sure you're using a JIS driver. What threw me off was the gas didn't come from the drain hole instead is just came out of the drain screw area (clogged drain hole or something wrong?). now my next project is clearing out the jets from a toro ccr 2450 snow blower.
Last edited:
My ZX10R is way overdue for its major scheduled maintenance. Supposed to be every 24 000 km and it's been 60 000 km (almost 156 000 on the bike). At the moment, the fairings are all off and I have the airbox off. Tomorrow will be for removing the throttle bodies and getting access to the top of the engine.
The list:
Adjust PowerCommander map based upon some recent findings (done and test-ridden - good)
Repair cracked tab in rear bodywork and reinforce it again given that the last time apparently wasn't enough (done)
Find and fix why the horn doesn't work (fixed broken wire with the replacement longer so that it doesn't bend as much with handlebar movement)
Replace inop headlight bulb
Replace air filter (have the old one out - dirty, though I've seen worse - new one on order)
Replace sparkplugs (done)
Check valve clearances (done - only had to change 1 shim)
Engine oil and filter change (done)
Added: remove inop SpeedoHealer. I went back to stock gearing quite a while ago, so this is no longer needed. (done)
Surprise discovery, which kinda explains some stuff ... Crankcase venting was restricted. There's a foam pad inside the airbox where the crankcase vent hose connects; presumably this is meant to act as a last-resort oil-mist separator. When I took the airbox out, I noticed that this looked like it was breaking apart, and it definitely felt restricted when blowing through the vent connection. While cleaning out the airbox with a garden hose, I aimed the hose up the crankcase vent, and the whole thing blew apart! There is now definitely no restriction to the crankcase venting, because the foam pad completely disintegrated and disappeared.
update 1: Spark plugs are all worn, cylinder 4 has more carbon deposits than the others, but I've seen worse. No real surprise.
update 2: One exhaust valve, cylinder 2 right, has valve clearance tighter than the specified range, and needs the shim swapped. ONE valve. Removing the camshaft to gain access, is tomorrow's job.
update 3: mostly through the list, it's going back together tomorrow up to the point where I'm waiting for parts.
The list:
Adjust PowerCommander map based upon some recent findings (done and test-ridden - good)
Repair cracked tab in rear bodywork and reinforce it again given that the last time apparently wasn't enough (done)
Find and fix why the horn doesn't work (fixed broken wire with the replacement longer so that it doesn't bend as much with handlebar movement)
Replace inop headlight bulb
Replace air filter (have the old one out - dirty, though I've seen worse - new one on order)
Replace sparkplugs (done)
Check valve clearances (done - only had to change 1 shim)
Engine oil and filter change (done)
Added: remove inop SpeedoHealer. I went back to stock gearing quite a while ago, so this is no longer needed. (done)
Surprise discovery, which kinda explains some stuff ... Crankcase venting was restricted. There's a foam pad inside the airbox where the crankcase vent hose connects; presumably this is meant to act as a last-resort oil-mist separator. When I took the airbox out, I noticed that this looked like it was breaking apart, and it definitely felt restricted when blowing through the vent connection. While cleaning out the airbox with a garden hose, I aimed the hose up the crankcase vent, and the whole thing blew apart! There is now definitely no restriction to the crankcase venting, because the foam pad completely disintegrated and disappeared.
update 1: Spark plugs are all worn, cylinder 4 has more carbon deposits than the others, but I've seen worse. No real surprise.
update 2: One exhaust valve, cylinder 2 right, has valve clearance tighter than the specified range, and needs the shim swapped. ONE valve. Removing the camshaft to gain access, is tomorrow's job.
update 3: mostly through the list, it's going back together tomorrow up to the point where I'm waiting for parts.
Last edited:
Relax
Well-known member
I'm guessing at that mileage, not much valve adjustment required?
What was going on that's explained by the blockage? Oil leak or something else?
matt365
Well-known member
How about a new head? Or valve seals?
Or a boneyard low km motor.
Just sayin'. No need to change the oil, just top it off. It burns it like a 2 stroke!
Sent from my SM-S921W using Tapatalk
Do you still have the beast?
