Do not hit it with an impact gun, if anything get a rachet on it.
Waht area are you in? maybe i can give you a hand
Broke bolt extractor - what to do?
- Thread starter NuggyBuggy
- Start date
Waht area are you in? maybe i can give you a hand
Mad Mike
Well-known member
In my case the jet was just too torqued from the factory. I have proper carb service drivers, the jet simply split.
Not the first time I’ve dealt with stuck or broken pilots… but it was the first time I had to deal with a factory problem on a new carb.
Bu the way, you couldn’t use the bit you show on most pilots or air screws - wrong tool.
That’s great of you ! The bike is in the Orillia area- Washago, to be precise.
I didn't read all the posts.
When tightening this type of pinch bolt assembly I note they have to be done in series back and forth. You tighten one to spec and it effectively lessens the tightness on the other bolt, so you go back and forth until they are both tightened the same.
Have you considered over tightening the bolt on the left by maybe 10% - 15% (maybe more...........??) to see if this effectively reduces pressure on the stripped bolt on the right.
When tightening this type of pinch bolt assembly I note they have to be done in series back and forth. You tighten one to spec and it effectively lessens the tightness on the other bolt, so you go back and forth until they are both tightened the same.
Have you considered over tightening the bolt on the left by maybe 10% - 15% (maybe more...........??) to see if this effectively reduces pressure on the stripped bolt on the right.
Wives sometimes know stuff. I had a KZ650 disembowled in the garage when the Squeeze suggested getting a new bike. I did not need to be told twice.
I have, while trying to avoid stripping the threads on the other bolt. Didn’t make a difference yet. Someone else made a suggestion to use a clamp to accomplish the same thing. That’s something I can try next weekend.
i hear you. Besides the problem of selling this one in its current state is the problem that there is no other bike that I really pine for. Not that ticks off the box of not being another project for me, anyways. Excepting the ones I know aren’t really a good fit - like a Panigale V2.
The Squeeze sounds like a keeper.
Years ok I expressed frustration to spouse about my ST1100 being at the house when I wanted it at the cottage and vice versa. Her response was why don't you just get a second bike and keep one at each place...........
I traded that KZ for 2 snowblowers. Not my best move.
It's all a matter of marrying the right gal.
I am happy to report - I freed the screw today!
Since my last post I decided I was going to take a break from actively working on it. I decided that on weekends where I could see the bike, I would keep hitting it with whatever combination of penetrating oil, heat, and tapping on it with a hammer I felt I had the energy for at the time. I had too much stuff going on to actively work on the problem so I crossed my fingers that time would solve my problems.
I did research more on penetrating oil and while many recommended acetone and ATF, Project Farm's test had Liquid Wrench winning out, so I started spraying that. My weekends at the cottage might include spraying it several times whenever I went near the bike, sometimes checking to see if I could move it, but not really trying to actively free it. The other thing I would do is switch between having the other screw on the leg either over-tightened or loosened, thinking that action might also help to break the screw free.
Today I decided to see where things were at. If all the treatment with penetrating oil and heat didn't work soon I was going to remove the forks and take it somewhere. Hammered my Torx bit into it again, and lo-and-behold, it moved, albeit with quite a lot of torque required. I was a little surprised to see that I never did penetrate the sides of the original screw during my misadventures in off-centre drilling. I was also surprised how well that Torx socket held in what was left of the screw cap.
Here's what the screw looks like after I finally got it out. LOL.
Thank you to everyone who was kind enough to offer advice here. And a big thank you to those so generous as to offer to take a look at it with me or lend me tools - @nobbie48, @Mad Mike, @ToSlow, @Relax - hope I didn't miss anyone there.
Since my last post I decided I was going to take a break from actively working on it. I decided that on weekends where I could see the bike, I would keep hitting it with whatever combination of penetrating oil, heat, and tapping on it with a hammer I felt I had the energy for at the time. I had too much stuff going on to actively work on the problem so I crossed my fingers that time would solve my problems.
I did research more on penetrating oil and while many recommended acetone and ATF, Project Farm's test had Liquid Wrench winning out, so I started spraying that. My weekends at the cottage might include spraying it several times whenever I went near the bike, sometimes checking to see if I could move it, but not really trying to actively free it. The other thing I would do is switch between having the other screw on the leg either over-tightened or loosened, thinking that action might also help to break the screw free.
Today I decided to see where things were at. If all the treatment with penetrating oil and heat didn't work soon I was going to remove the forks and take it somewhere. Hammered my Torx bit into it again, and lo-and-behold, it moved, albeit with quite a lot of torque required. I was a little surprised to see that I never did penetrate the sides of the original screw during my misadventures in off-centre drilling. I was also surprised how well that Torx socket held in what was left of the screw cap.
Here's what the screw looks like after I finally got it out. LOL.
Thank you to everyone who was kind enough to offer advice here. And a big thank you to those so generous as to offer to take a look at it with me or lend me tools - @nobbie48, @Mad Mike, @ToSlow, @Relax - hope I didn't miss anyone there.
Is there a narrow section on the bolt about three threads down from the head? If so, are those supposed to be single use torque to yield bolts? I think someone had it way too tight.
I see what you're seeing in the picture, but I don't see it in person. The shoulder and threads all seem to be uniform in thickness, to my eye.
The photo also really hides the length of the shoulder. I know it's a matter of perspective but in person you don't get that effect either.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Wouldn’t be torque to yield in that application - those are used in highly engineered surface mating applications like cylinder head and split cases. I doubt they would ever be used in suspension.
Lots of vehicles have them in suspension/brakes. Not even confined to the Germans. Chevy Malibu (and many other GM vehicles) have TTY bolts on the caliper brackets for almost 20 years.
RC-31
Well-known member
You can get a pitch gauge on there and see if there is any stretch at all... but I don't think you'll find any.
I think the root cause of this was not backing the bolts off alternately little-by-little on each side - never letting one side completely unload.
I think the unyielding grip in the bolt was due to the twist in the fork lower, because of this uneven unloading of the bolts.
I've seen vortex handlebar clamps hold an unbreakable amount of torque because one of the 3 was backed out too far. A finger tight then ¼ turn loading of that bolt was enough to release the twist and hence the grip on the other bolt.
Aluminum is pretty soft and deformable. The angle tolerance of the threads is tight enough that the alignment can cause an order of magnitude increase in friction.
I think the root cause of this was not backing the bolts off alternately little-by-little on each side - never letting one side completely unload.
I think the unyielding grip in the bolt was due to the twist in the fork lower, because of this uneven unloading of the bolts.
I've seen vortex handlebar clamps hold an unbreakable amount of torque because one of the 3 was backed out too far. A finger tight then ¼ turn loading of that bolt was enough to release the twist and hence the grip on the other bolt.
Aluminum is pretty soft and deformable. The angle tolerance of the threads is tight enough that the alignment can cause an order of magnitude increase in friction.
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