Do i need to upsize my battery to handle larger loads that i place on it due to accessories added, also is there other issues i might face???
Each item comes with its own fuse and battery feed which starts to crowd terminal. Solutions???
Finding places to put all the switches also presents a problem, some give rockers, some toggles, Solutions???
It's not the battery, its the charging system. The battery doesn't create the power, it just stores it.
Hook everything up, turn it on and then start the bike to see how much generator voltage is left going to the battery.
If you don't still have at least 13.5 volts at idle then you'll have to rethink.
the bike is a 2007 ninja 650R, i just replaced the stator, as seen in earlier post,
driving lights i got are halogen 55W
Regulator/Rectifier, from the readings i showed could the regulator be an issue???learning, understood that it should be constant no matter what rpm. and it changes as i bring rpms up.
1) Change illumination to LED lights. A stock headlight used about 55watts, changing to LEDs reduces that to about 12watts -- that's the single biggest upgrade. Just be sure your rectifier is in free air as it will run hotter as it dumps excess power at higher RPM. Changing your signal lights can save another 10 watts, this may require a change to your flasher unit or the addition of signal lamp resistor kits to make them blink correctly.
2) There are lots of handlebar switch options available from Amazon or Aliexpress.
3) A small power distribution box can be wired, that way you dont have a jumble of wires running straight to the battery. Most bikes have a little room under the seat, maybe use the area where your tool kit is stored. You can run one heavy +wire to the extra fuse panel then connect your switches to the outputs. Better yet wire in a relay before the fuse panel so the accessories are only energized when the bike is switched on.
+
Your stator cam pump about 300W at 4000 RPM. That's lots for a stock bike and should be enough to power a few accessories.
Headlight 55 / Highbeam 60 each
Brake light 26
ECU 20
Fuel Pump 50
GPS, cell phone charger, 5 watts
Radio - up to 30 watts
Heated Grips - up to 50 watts
Jacket Liner 77
Gloves 22
Underglow 10 watts each
BlueFire Upgraded 6 Way Blade Fuse Box Fuse Holder Standard Circuit Fuse Holder Box Block with LED Indicator, Fuses & Protection Cover for Car Boat Marine Truck Vehicle SUV Yacht RV https://a.co/d/0gwT89f
the bike is a 2007 ninja 650R, i just replaced the stator, as seen in earlier post,
driving lights i got are halogen 55W
Regulator/Rectifier, from the readings i showed could the regulator be an issue???learning, understood that it should be constant no matter what rpm. and it changes as i bring rpms up.
Readings should be close to battery voltage at low RPM, rising till you hit 4000RPM then leveling off at 14-14.5V with stock bike electrical loads.
Your readings look fine to me.
I'll state again, make sure your regulator has not been relocated to somewhere that makes it hard to cool. It should be in free air, away from sources of heat.
I think i should of go LED driving lights, but i was in such a rush after accident i just got the easiest quickest ones i could find.
Also i really like bluefire, it'll fit perfectly next to battery where tool bag was.
Is there a specific point to take positive from so i can utilize the ignition function for it????
Or do i tap into fuse box that came with bike, in order to grab a power lead and just up the fuse capability and gauge of wire????
I think i should of go LED driving lights, but i was in such a rush after accident i just got the easiest quickest ones i could find.
Also i really like bluefire, it'll fit perfectly next to battery where tool bag was.
Is there a specific point to take positive from so i can utilize the ignition function for it????
Or do i tap into fuse box that came with bike, in order to grab a power lead and just up the fuse capability and gauge of wire????
There are distrubution blocks similar to bluefire that allow you to pick whether each circuit is always on or on with key (for instance FuzeBlocks). I like that concept as it makes it easy to leave on a phone charger (or underglow if you're mm). They run a power lead from the battery and you grab a signal lead from an existing 12V switched source. The box has a relay that connects the switched circuits when the key is on.
As for is your charging system good enough. Check voltage with engine RPM around cruising rpm. At idle most are slowly discharging battery even with stock loads.
I think i should of go LED driving lights, but i was in such a rush after accident i just got the easiest quickest ones i could find.
Also i really like bluefire, it'll fit perfectly next to battery where tool bag was.
Is there a specific point to take positive from so i can utilize the ignition function for it????
Or do i tap into fuse box that came with bike, in order to grab a power lead and just up the fuse capability and gauge of wire????
Your main power lead to the Bluefire fuse box should go through a standard automotive relay.
The power lead on the relay (pin 30) goes directly to the battery, use a ring terminal for this.
The trigger lead (pin 86) can be spliced into the + line of any accessory that goes live when the key is in the run position -- it uses very little power. Relay pin 87 goes to the + input on your Bluefire.
Relay pin 85 AND the ground on your bluefire go to any good chassis ground, you can go directly to the battery or any place on the frame with a ground lug.
You can wire the Bluefire directly without a relay... I wouldn't. Bluefire type fuse boxes have LEDs that use a teeny amount of power, that drain will always be there if you don't use a relay. A relay also protects you from forgetting to switch off your accessories when you turn the bike off - protects against running down your battery.
There are distrubution blocks similar to bluefire that allow you to pick whether each circuit is always on or on with key (for instance FuzeBlocks). I like that concept as it makes it easy to leave on a phone charger (or underglow if you're mm). They run a power lead from the battery and you grab a signal lead from an existing 12V switched source. The box has a relay that connects the switched circuits when the key is on.
As for is your charging system good enough. Check voltage with engine RPM around cruising rpm. At idle most are slowly discharging battery even with stock loads.
That looks easy! I've seen integrated relay/.fuse boxes before, but not in a small tidy package like this. A bit pricey compared to a simple fuse box+relay, but it looks tidy and easy to install.
That looks easy! I've seen integrated relay/.fuse boxes before, but not in a small tidy package like this. A bit pricey compared to a simple fuse box+relay, but it looks tidy and easy to install.
It's even got diodes to snub the upstream spike when the relay disconnects (I'm assuming that's what they're for anyway, I haven't researched in detail).
Installing a voltage monitor isn't a bad idea if you intend to frequently run enough stuff to be close to the limit of your charging system. Like mentioned above, you can easily be discharging the battery if you're at low or idle RPM, and the voltage monitor can remind you to shut some stuff off if necessary. I've got a simple small red/green LED like this one:
Installing a voltage monitor isn't a bad idea if you intend to frequently run enough stuff to be close to the limit of your charging system. Like mentioned above, you can easily be discharging the battery if you're at low or idle RPM, and the voltage monitor can remind you to shut some stuff off if necessary. I've got a simple small red/green LED like this one:
I like the concept of that light and how it is small, visible and easy to fit somewhere. I dislike the voltage thresholds they picked. Green at 12.0 and up? Yikes. I probably would have done green at least 12.4 (ie. battery is full or going up). Possible green at 13.0 to show you are charging, yellow for 12 to 13 to show not much is happening with battery and red below 12 to show things are not going well. Alternatively, use an ammeter setup on the battery lead and get green if power is going in and red if it's going out.
I don't recall if I have that exact voltage monitor or just something similar. I do recall being quite surprised that the stock handlebar warmer circuit on the VStrom suffered from an entire volt of voltage drop as compared to directly wiring to the battery. The stock circuit has tiny little wires for some reason.
Orange is the Garmin Controller.
Yellow is a USB Port.
Blue are the plugs for the camera.
Green is the two dashcams controller.
Red is for a heated jacket.
Everything except possibly the heated jacket is triggered by the Thunderbox under the Garmin controller which is connected to the battery directly.
I didn't tap into any relay lines, so they don't turn on until the engine is running, which is a minor pain with the Garmin.
If I want, I can attach a wire from the Thunderbox to something that turns on with the key, and then everything will come on with the key.
Edit: I had to kind of squish everything in or the seat won't go on it's lowest setting.
I have a voltage display. Unfortunately, the best location for it is an unswitched port, which would have it powered all the time, which would eventually drain the battery. Therefore, it isn't usually connected.
do you have a schematic for wiring setup and model # ref etc.. for equip you used (looks like a great setup, just curious on electric draw, fusing etc.. that makes it tick,) in the process of designing 1 for my bike , so getting all feedback and knowledge i can before jumping fully in
do you have a schematic for wiring setup and model # ref etc.. for equip you used (looks like a great setup, just curious on electric draw, fusing etc.. that makes it tick,) in the process of designing 1 for my bike , so getting all feedback and knowledge i can before jumping fully in
Thunderbox is either 1x16A or 2x16A circuit breakers. If it were me, With a 2x16 I would have a 35A fuse as close to the battery as possible and then a line to the thunderbox. Thunderbox has some brains so you can avoid a trigger wire but I wouldn't. For instance, I wouldn't want it to kill my gps when I lost charging as I need the fastest way to civilization at that point. Trigger wire from somewhere convenient (maybe tail light or license plate light in the pictured install?).
Start with a list of loads you want to power and the required amperage for each load. Divide into with key or always on (you may decide all one way or the other). Pick a distribution system that has enough circuits and input current for your loads (hopefully with at least a circuit or two to spare for future loads). I like the dumber boxes where I can pick fuses properly. I don't want a 16A load to make it to a usb circuit.
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