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Vacation time
- Thread starter Jayell
- Start date
Day 8, Tuesday June 14, Dawson Creek, BC to Liard River, BC, 751km. This entry is a day late because there was no cell service or wifi at the campground.
I woke to a cold and grey day, the skies threatening. No matter, today was the beginning of the famous Alaska Highway. Sure enough, the rain came shorty after I left at 8:00am. Intense at times, it remained this way for much of the day. A fogging visor made an already difficult ride even more challenging. On the bright side, I was dry and even stayed warm.
The road was fairly straight, not particularly exciting, at times completely isolated. Following lunch at Fort Nelson, I carried on expecting more of the same. Not so. Suddenly, I was back in the Rockies, the road taking on an entirely different nature. Twists and turns, dips and plunges, many blind crests, not unlike the roads of rural Pennsylvania, but with better scenery. Fantastic riding, but I rode like a granny. If you run into trouble here, you're on your own. Rain, loose gravel, and knobby tires convinced me that I didn't need to ride it like Rossi, nor am I able, in any case.
I've met many riders today, all heading to Dawson City for D2D.
I stopped for gas at Toad River, considered staying for the night, but I was enjoying the ride so much, I chose to continue, even though it was getting late. Wonderful riding along Muncho Lake, so scenic. Here I encountered mountain goats. They saw me and quickly scampered back up the rock. About two kilometres from Liard River, the was a herd of bison crossing the highway. Many females and their calves. A most impressive sight. I took some photos, then cautiously rode on. I camped at a private campground across the highway from the Liard River Hot Springs provincial park. The price was right at $20, but no restaurant, no food. My rations will have to do. The provincial park was full, but the attendant said I could use the hot springs for five bucks. Or, come after eight o'clock, she said, when the office is closed and use the hot springs for free! What a relaxing way to end the day. Thirty minutes in the 100°F natural hot spring. Fantastic!
My camping neighbours are a father and son sharing a road trip. They generously provided me with beer and hot dogs for supper.
Tomorrow: Whitehorse, YT.
Critter count: three deer, one fox, one bear, seven mountain goats, one lone bison, and an entire herd of bison.
I was chilly, so I stopped for some chili. Fort Nelson, BC.
Looking south on the Alaska Highway. This photo was taken just before 11:00pm.
11:00pm and still light out.
via Tapatalk
I woke to a cold and grey day, the skies threatening. No matter, today was the beginning of the famous Alaska Highway. Sure enough, the rain came shorty after I left at 8:00am. Intense at times, it remained this way for much of the day. A fogging visor made an already difficult ride even more challenging. On the bright side, I was dry and even stayed warm.
The road was fairly straight, not particularly exciting, at times completely isolated. Following lunch at Fort Nelson, I carried on expecting more of the same. Not so. Suddenly, I was back in the Rockies, the road taking on an entirely different nature. Twists and turns, dips and plunges, many blind crests, not unlike the roads of rural Pennsylvania, but with better scenery. Fantastic riding, but I rode like a granny. If you run into trouble here, you're on your own. Rain, loose gravel, and knobby tires convinced me that I didn't need to ride it like Rossi, nor am I able, in any case.
I've met many riders today, all heading to Dawson City for D2D.
I stopped for gas at Toad River, considered staying for the night, but I was enjoying the ride so much, I chose to continue, even though it was getting late. Wonderful riding along Muncho Lake, so scenic. Here I encountered mountain goats. They saw me and quickly scampered back up the rock. About two kilometres from Liard River, the was a herd of bison crossing the highway. Many females and their calves. A most impressive sight. I took some photos, then cautiously rode on. I camped at a private campground across the highway from the Liard River Hot Springs provincial park. The price was right at $20, but no restaurant, no food. My rations will have to do. The provincial park was full, but the attendant said I could use the hot springs for five bucks. Or, come after eight o'clock, she said, when the office is closed and use the hot springs for free! What a relaxing way to end the day. Thirty minutes in the 100°F natural hot spring. Fantastic!
My camping neighbours are a father and son sharing a road trip. They generously provided me with beer and hot dogs for supper.
Tomorrow: Whitehorse, YT.
Critter count: three deer, one fox, one bear, seven mountain goats, one lone bison, and an entire herd of bison.
I was chilly, so I stopped for some chili. Fort Nelson, BC.
Looking south on the Alaska Highway. This photo was taken just before 11:00pm.
11:00pm and still light out.
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Last edited:
Day 9, Wednesday June 15, Liard River, BC to Whitehorse, YT 679km.
Nothing is worse than having to break down your camp in the rain. Ugh. Luckily, my neighbour (Duncan, the hot dog guy from the previous night) gave me a hand. The rain continued on and off all day.
There's no breakfast at the campground, so it's straight down to business. The ride began with another herd of bison, this one even larger than yesterday. I rode for about a half hour or so, then stopped in Coal River for fuel, coffee, and a bite. Everything is horrendously expensive in northern BC. $1.77 for a litre of premium, ten bucks for a bacon and egg muffin. Three gents from Alberta, who camped at the same spot last night, arrived shortly after and joined me for breakfast. They're going to Dawson, as well. A nice group of guys; one of them even picked up the tab.
On to Watson Lake, YT, home of the sign post forest. There are said to be over 77,000 signs here. I filled up once again. Gas stations are few and far between and running out is a real concern if you're careless.
Interestingly, after crossing into Yukon, the Alaska highway dips back into BC for a short run, then on to Teslin, YT.
The BC and Yukon works departments have a curious way of warning of construction hazards. When their sign says, for example, "Loose patches of gravel next 10km", what they really mean is "Gravel road next 10km." Not a hint of asphalt anywhere. No matter, the Tiger took it like a champ at 60mph.
I pulled into Whitehorse later than I would have liked, and since I have planned to camp for two nights in Dawson City, I convinced myself that somehow I deserved a motel room. Unpacked my stuff and went into town in search of a six pack and dinner. I asked the young guy at the liquor store where to eat. Not fast food, not a chain restaurant, and something in keeping with my modest travel budget. He suggested the Big Bear Bonair, just around the corner. I was skeptical, but gave it a try anyway. What a great choice! The food was...uhh, great! To make matters even better, they had lost my order, so it was taking some time. It didn't bother me, nor did I notice; I was too busy typing on this phone. He brought the food, apologized, and said my glass of beer was on the house! What a deal.
Not such great service at the motel. In fact, they suck. Not interested in accommodating the customer, and generally unpleasant. I got change for the laundry machine, then realized I had no detergent. Perhaps you have some to sell? "No!". Okay, maybe you can give me a thimbleful of yours? "No!". Get bent.
Tomorrow: Dawson City
Critter count: one fox, and the even larger, more impressive herd of bison.
Not the real Welcome to Yukon sign.
Bear?
That's better. Welcome to Yukon!
The sign post forest in Watson Lake, YT
Just a random sample of some of the thousands of signs.
Somewhere between Watson Lake and Teslin. Note the nasty weather on the right side of the photo. Guess which way I was headed?
Teslin, YT
The RCMP in Teslin are a sneaky bunch.
Whitehorse, YT
Three woolly mammoths, one Tiger.
The Whitehorse transportation museum.
This decommissioned DC-3 now serves as the world's largest weather vane at the Whitehorse airport, her nose always faithfully pointing into the wind.
A couple of crappy GoPro screen grabs.
via Tapatalk
Nothing is worse than having to break down your camp in the rain. Ugh. Luckily, my neighbour (Duncan, the hot dog guy from the previous night) gave me a hand. The rain continued on and off all day.
There's no breakfast at the campground, so it's straight down to business. The ride began with another herd of bison, this one even larger than yesterday. I rode for about a half hour or so, then stopped in Coal River for fuel, coffee, and a bite. Everything is horrendously expensive in northern BC. $1.77 for a litre of premium, ten bucks for a bacon and egg muffin. Three gents from Alberta, who camped at the same spot last night, arrived shortly after and joined me for breakfast. They're going to Dawson, as well. A nice group of guys; one of them even picked up the tab.
On to Watson Lake, YT, home of the sign post forest. There are said to be over 77,000 signs here. I filled up once again. Gas stations are few and far between and running out is a real concern if you're careless.
Interestingly, after crossing into Yukon, the Alaska highway dips back into BC for a short run, then on to Teslin, YT.
The BC and Yukon works departments have a curious way of warning of construction hazards. When their sign says, for example, "Loose patches of gravel next 10km", what they really mean is "Gravel road next 10km." Not a hint of asphalt anywhere. No matter, the Tiger took it like a champ at 60mph.
I pulled into Whitehorse later than I would have liked, and since I have planned to camp for two nights in Dawson City, I convinced myself that somehow I deserved a motel room. Unpacked my stuff and went into town in search of a six pack and dinner. I asked the young guy at the liquor store where to eat. Not fast food, not a chain restaurant, and something in keeping with my modest travel budget. He suggested the Big Bear Bonair, just around the corner. I was skeptical, but gave it a try anyway. What a great choice! The food was...uhh, great! To make matters even better, they had lost my order, so it was taking some time. It didn't bother me, nor did I notice; I was too busy typing on this phone. He brought the food, apologized, and said my glass of beer was on the house! What a deal.
Not such great service at the motel. In fact, they suck. Not interested in accommodating the customer, and generally unpleasant. I got change for the laundry machine, then realized I had no detergent. Perhaps you have some to sell? "No!". Okay, maybe you can give me a thimbleful of yours? "No!". Get bent.
Tomorrow: Dawson City
Critter count: one fox, and the even larger, more impressive herd of bison.
Not the real Welcome to Yukon sign.
Bear?
That's better. Welcome to Yukon!
The sign post forest in Watson Lake, YT
Just a random sample of some of the thousands of signs.
Somewhere between Watson Lake and Teslin. Note the nasty weather on the right side of the photo. Guess which way I was headed?
Teslin, YT
The RCMP in Teslin are a sneaky bunch.
Whitehorse, YT
Three woolly mammoths, one Tiger.
The Whitehorse transportation museum.
This decommissioned DC-3 now serves as the world's largest weather vane at the Whitehorse airport, her nose always faithfully pointing into the wind.
A couple of crappy GoPro screen grabs.
via Tapatalk
Last edited:
Day 10, Thursday June 16, Whitehorse, YT to Dawson City, YT, 540km.
Today was to be a lighter day, so there was no hurry. After a McBreakfast, on the road at 9:00am. I left the Alaska Highway and headed up highway 2, the Klondike Highway, to Dawson City. It was a gorgeous day, warm with not a single cloud in the sky.
I saw my mates from Alberta stopped at the gas station/restaurant in Braeburn, so I pulled in too. The Braeburn Lodge sells, as they claim, the world's largest cinnamon bun. I'm sure it was twelve inches in diameter, and could feed an entire family. Only ten bucks!
Off we went, the next fuel stop in Carmacks. I preferred a slightly quicker pace than the others, so I left 'em behind. The road is generally in good shape, a few short gravel sections due to construction. There are many signs indicating bumps, but it's difficult to tell how bumpy it may be. In some cases, nothing. Others, major bumps requiring a reduction of speed and great caution. But how do I know from a distance? I chose to take it easy, slowed down, and picked my way through.
Just as it was on the Alaska Highway, the Klondike Highway is also remote and isolated. You can travel a great distance without encountering a soul. But so beautiful and pristine.
Stopped for fuel in Cormacks and I met an older gentleman riding a GSA. Chuck Berry was his name (really!), riding all the way from Florida. An Iron Butt rider, he intends to ride to Prudhoe Bay, then across Canada to Newfoundland. Have you been riding all your life, I asked? "No, I'm 78 years old, but only started riding at 65." Amazing. He was no slouch on the bike, either, quite willing to twist it.
I arrived in Dawson City at 3:45pm, made my first stop at the visitor centre. The campground downtown was full, the hotels too rich for me. It was suggested I stay at the Yukon River campground across the river. A ferry runs twenty four hours a day, free of charge. A little less convenient, but the ferry ride is brief, and the campground is quite lovely and picturesque, lots of shade, right on the banks of the river, plenty of space, free firewood. Twelve bucks a night on the honour system. As I discovered later, the downtown campground is nothing more than a dusty parking lot full of rocks. They are jammed in like sardines, no privacy, no shade, no fun, at twice the price. I'm in the right place.
There are tons of bikes in town for D2D, of course. Not surprisingly, BMW is the most popular choice. Plenty of KLRs, a couple of brand new Africa Twins, and even a stunning Ducati SR2. Surely the Duc was trailered; every bike in town is filthy, the SR2 was spotless. I have seen one other girlie, this one a '99 885i.
I had dinner, bought some important provisions (beer and water!), then back to the camp site. It was 10:00pm, still bright sunshine, so I wandered about and stumbled upon a riverboat graveyard a little down river from the campsite. Abandoned and forgotten, it was a wee bit haunting.
Finished the day writing this blog in my handy dandy camping chair, beer in hand. Very quiet and peaceful. Still light out when I retired well past midnight.
Critter count: zero!
Tomorrow: day off!
On the Klondike Highway between Whitehorse and Dawson City.
The Tiger could use a freshening.
The Yukon River ferry.
Looking back to Dawson City.
Nice campsite!
ADV bikes everywhere.
The Yukon River, from the campsite, shortly before 10:00pm.
Abandoned riverboats.
Midnight.
Hi to my family and friends at home! ☺
via Tapatalk
Today was to be a lighter day, so there was no hurry. After a McBreakfast, on the road at 9:00am. I left the Alaska Highway and headed up highway 2, the Klondike Highway, to Dawson City. It was a gorgeous day, warm with not a single cloud in the sky.
I saw my mates from Alberta stopped at the gas station/restaurant in Braeburn, so I pulled in too. The Braeburn Lodge sells, as they claim, the world's largest cinnamon bun. I'm sure it was twelve inches in diameter, and could feed an entire family. Only ten bucks!
Off we went, the next fuel stop in Carmacks. I preferred a slightly quicker pace than the others, so I left 'em behind. The road is generally in good shape, a few short gravel sections due to construction. There are many signs indicating bumps, but it's difficult to tell how bumpy it may be. In some cases, nothing. Others, major bumps requiring a reduction of speed and great caution. But how do I know from a distance? I chose to take it easy, slowed down, and picked my way through.
Just as it was on the Alaska Highway, the Klondike Highway is also remote and isolated. You can travel a great distance without encountering a soul. But so beautiful and pristine.
Stopped for fuel in Cormacks and I met an older gentleman riding a GSA. Chuck Berry was his name (really!), riding all the way from Florida. An Iron Butt rider, he intends to ride to Prudhoe Bay, then across Canada to Newfoundland. Have you been riding all your life, I asked? "No, I'm 78 years old, but only started riding at 65." Amazing. He was no slouch on the bike, either, quite willing to twist it.
I arrived in Dawson City at 3:45pm, made my first stop at the visitor centre. The campground downtown was full, the hotels too rich for me. It was suggested I stay at the Yukon River campground across the river. A ferry runs twenty four hours a day, free of charge. A little less convenient, but the ferry ride is brief, and the campground is quite lovely and picturesque, lots of shade, right on the banks of the river, plenty of space, free firewood. Twelve bucks a night on the honour system. As I discovered later, the downtown campground is nothing more than a dusty parking lot full of rocks. They are jammed in like sardines, no privacy, no shade, no fun, at twice the price. I'm in the right place.
There are tons of bikes in town for D2D, of course. Not surprisingly, BMW is the most popular choice. Plenty of KLRs, a couple of brand new Africa Twins, and even a stunning Ducati SR2. Surely the Duc was trailered; every bike in town is filthy, the SR2 was spotless. I have seen one other girlie, this one a '99 885i.
I had dinner, bought some important provisions (beer and water!), then back to the camp site. It was 10:00pm, still bright sunshine, so I wandered about and stumbled upon a riverboat graveyard a little down river from the campsite. Abandoned and forgotten, it was a wee bit haunting.
Finished the day writing this blog in my handy dandy camping chair, beer in hand. Very quiet and peaceful. Still light out when I retired well past midnight.
Critter count: zero!
Tomorrow: day off!
On the Klondike Highway between Whitehorse and Dawson City.
The Tiger could use a freshening.
The Yukon River ferry.
Looking back to Dawson City.
Nice campsite!
ADV bikes everywhere.
The Yukon River, from the campsite, shortly before 10:00pm.
Abandoned riverboats.
Midnight.
Hi to my family and friends at home! ☺
via Tapatalk
Last edited:
Thanks Joe.
D2D, Dust to Dawson, is a gathering of motorcycle riders, primarily dual sport bikes, but any bike is welcome. Held annually in Dawson City, during the summer solstice. Various activities and a steak dinner. Not sure about ice cream. A highlight is the midnight group photo.
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Day 11, Friday June 17. Dawson City, YT. It's my day off!
After riding for ten days straight, it was a welcome change to sleep in and enjoy a day off. No need to bust down the campsite. I gathered some things, hopped on the bike and took the short ferry ride into town.
This was my first opportunity to tend to some much needed laundry. Rather than wait around, I went for a light breakfast at one of the hotels, out on the deck in beautiful, bright sunshine. Back to the laundromat, a quick thirty minute dry, and it was done.
I wandered about town (everything is within walking distance), gave myself a few history lessons, admired the gold rush architecture, did a few chores. Banking, grocery store, gas. Other than CIBC and Home Hardware, I didn't see any national chain type businesses or restaurants. Everything is independent, mom 'n pop. Just about every street in town is gravel; on a dry day such as this, the town becomes a dust bowl.
The big event of the day for the D2D crowd was the poker run on the motorbikes. I was feeling particularly lazy and chose to skip it, but I did buy my D2D dinner ticket. This event has grown over the years, this year they had about 300 bikes. The group is so large that the only building large enough to accommodate dinner is the hockey arena.
Back to the campsite to enjoy a big bag of fresh fruit, something I'm not getting enough of on this trip. After that, the most luxurious treat of all: an afternoon nap in the tent!
Into town for the dinner bash, a chance to hang out with like minded gear heads. The place was jammed, most seats were taken. Feeling a little lost, I heard my name called. It was my three buddies from Alberta. Bill, Dave, and Phil, three Harley riders looking a little out of place in the sea of dual sport folks. They were having a great time, in any case. Good of them to save me a seat.
Following dinner, the motorcycle games, a light hearted skills competition in the hotel parking lot. I'm new to this D2D thing, so I chose to watch rather than participate.
The games went on for some time. I took a break, went up the street to the Downtown Hotel, home of the famous Sour Toe Cocktail. I was keen to do it, but the line up was way too long. It takes some time for each person to complete, as the fellow presiding goes through the ceremonial fanfare each time. Maybe next time?
D2D wrapped up at midnight, with a group photo of all the bikes stuffed in the parking lot. Each bike is then issued the prized D2D fender decal.
I called it a day and slipped into the tent, my focus now on days ahead.
Tomorrow: The Top of the World, and beyond.
More ADV bikes!
A nice '99 885i.
And another one!
I dig the Transalp.
A couple of new Africa Twins.
Thumbs up to the Adventure CBR!
Would you believe even more ADV bikes?
The Downtown Hotel.
Typical street scene in Dawson City.
Lunch time!
D2D dinner.
Let the games begin!
via Tapatalk
After riding for ten days straight, it was a welcome change to sleep in and enjoy a day off. No need to bust down the campsite. I gathered some things, hopped on the bike and took the short ferry ride into town.
This was my first opportunity to tend to some much needed laundry. Rather than wait around, I went for a light breakfast at one of the hotels, out on the deck in beautiful, bright sunshine. Back to the laundromat, a quick thirty minute dry, and it was done.
I wandered about town (everything is within walking distance), gave myself a few history lessons, admired the gold rush architecture, did a few chores. Banking, grocery store, gas. Other than CIBC and Home Hardware, I didn't see any national chain type businesses or restaurants. Everything is independent, mom 'n pop. Just about every street in town is gravel; on a dry day such as this, the town becomes a dust bowl.
The big event of the day for the D2D crowd was the poker run on the motorbikes. I was feeling particularly lazy and chose to skip it, but I did buy my D2D dinner ticket. This event has grown over the years, this year they had about 300 bikes. The group is so large that the only building large enough to accommodate dinner is the hockey arena.
Back to the campsite to enjoy a big bag of fresh fruit, something I'm not getting enough of on this trip. After that, the most luxurious treat of all: an afternoon nap in the tent!
Into town for the dinner bash, a chance to hang out with like minded gear heads. The place was jammed, most seats were taken. Feeling a little lost, I heard my name called. It was my three buddies from Alberta. Bill, Dave, and Phil, three Harley riders looking a little out of place in the sea of dual sport folks. They were having a great time, in any case. Good of them to save me a seat.
Following dinner, the motorcycle games, a light hearted skills competition in the hotel parking lot. I'm new to this D2D thing, so I chose to watch rather than participate.
The games went on for some time. I took a break, went up the street to the Downtown Hotel, home of the famous Sour Toe Cocktail. I was keen to do it, but the line up was way too long. It takes some time for each person to complete, as the fellow presiding goes through the ceremonial fanfare each time. Maybe next time?
D2D wrapped up at midnight, with a group photo of all the bikes stuffed in the parking lot. Each bike is then issued the prized D2D fender decal.
I called it a day and slipped into the tent, my focus now on days ahead.
Tomorrow: The Top of the World, and beyond.
More ADV bikes!
A nice '99 885i.
And another one!
I dig the Transalp.
A couple of new Africa Twins.
Thumbs up to the Adventure CBR!
Would you believe even more ADV bikes?
The Downtown Hotel.
Typical street scene in Dawson City.
Lunch time!
D2D dinner.
Let the games begin!
via Tapatalk
Last edited:
Day 12, Saturday June 18, Dawson City, YT to Delta Junction, AK. 510km.
Note: I have no cell service in AK, wifi is tough to come by in all but built up areas. Updates will come as I'm able. Also, do not waste your money on Roam Mobility. It is a frustrating and ultimately useless service, only good for urban areas.
Today was to be the run on the aptly named Top of the World Highway, from Dawson City to Tok, Alaska. The TWH crosses into Alaska at Poker Creek. Going into town for breakfast would have meant two ferry rides for me, plus breakfast time, and nobody seems to move very fast in Dawson City, so I had a Clif bar and an apple instead. But where's the coffee? I waited for Bill, Dave, and Phil to cross.
It was 10:00am by the time we got going, only 100km to Alaska! The majority of the Top of the World is gravel, some sections hard packed, others loose. Without rain the last few days, it was incredibly dusty; at times visibility was severely limited. Conditions became tougher nearer the border, the bike darting about, trying to find a happy way. After some time, I noticed I was not seeing any of the scenery; the riding demanded 100% focus.
11:30am and we're in Poker Creek, the "most northerly land border port in the USA". It's also the easiest border crossing. I handed over my passport and was not asked a single question. Not one. A moment later, the passport is returned, he shows me the Poker Creek moose stamp, says have a nice day.
The four of us took a short break, shook hands on our achievement, took a few photos. Bill, Dave, and Phil went on, while I stayed back, agreeing to meet in Chicken. On my own now, I briefly pondered things, shed a tear, then hopped back on the bike.
The first few miles of the highway after the crossing are wonderful, billiard table smooth asphalt, unlike the dirt road on the Canadian side. Fast, sweeping curves, swooping uphill and down, what a ride! The party was over too soon, though, suddenly we're back on gravel. Different this time, though, much tighter, up and down through forested sections, even some really slow switchbacks. But still the same gravel, rutted, full of pot holes.
The first town is Chicken, population 15 (but it swells to 30 in the summer!). One flush toilet in town, no internet, no cell service. Plenty of bikes the parking lot of the gift shop/saloon/cafe. The cafe boasts of their chicken pot pie and homemade dessert pies, apple, cherry, and blueberry. I was going to have a slice of apple, then I spied a gigantic homemade brownie. Tough choice. For a moment, I foolishly considered having both, but common sense won out. So did the brownie. The three Alberta guys were in the saloon having a beer. I sat down in the cafe with another familiar face: Chuck Berry from Florida!
The saloon is a great old place, tiny, but jam packed with stuff. The ceiling is covered in hats. They don't know how many, but I suspect thousands.
After lunch, it was the second section of the TWH, to Tok. More gravel, more fun!
At Tok, I refuelled. I met a nice guy from Arizona. He and I instantly struck an agreement: he'd help me with my bike, if I'd loan him my chain lube. I need help when lubing the chain, someone to simply lift a bit of weight off the back wheel, just enough to allow it to spin. He needed to lube some squeaky steps on his motor home. Win, win! One more favour from him was to help me push the bike off the centre stand. If it's not on a perfectly level, smooth surface, it's enormously difficult to push off, especially when loaded up. Of course, I can do it on my own, but so much easier with a gentle push from a helper.
Fairbanks was a bit further than I wanted to go, so I stopped in Delta Junction. There was a dumpy motel, I guessed $59. The woman said "Sure, I have a room. $129." There was only one possible reply: "Could you direct me to the nearest campground, please?". I got a $15 tent site in an Alaska state park.
Upon setting up, I discovered a ruptured can of beer in one of the side cases. Ziplocs, people, use 'em!
The bike and all the gear are filthy dirty, especially from today's dusty ride. Even the GoPro is splattered in bugs. Speaking of GoPro, this Hero 4 Session is driving me nuts. It has a horrible user interface. Very difficult to use, many missed videos, it's not on when I think it is and vice versa. Sometimes, I can't even turn it off. Best to avoid, I think.
I had a good meal at a surprisingly nice restaurant; in fact, it seemed a bit it of place in this town. I may have looked out of place as well. It seems I've taken on a somewhat homeless appearance. Dirty motorcycle gear, unshaven, generally dishevelled. Whatever, I'm on vacation!
I bought a single, giant sized can of beer at the liquor store next door and happily sipped on it at the campsite.
By the way, I'm confused with the time. We picked up another hour entering AK, so that should be four hours behind EDST. My wife says not so. There was only three hours difference when we spoke. Can someone explain it to an idiot, please?
Critter count: zero.
Tomorrow: the Arctic Circle
Google maps is unable to plot a course on the Top of the World Highway, so I had to draw this one myself.
The highly coveted Poker Creek, AK passport stamp.
With Bill and Dave.
Chicken, AK
Gift shop, saloon, café.
Attack chickens?
Bill, Dave, and Phil warm the stools in the saloon.
Alaska state campground.
The not so pro GoPro.
Thunderbike crash bars make perfect beer holders.
Look closely, you might see mountains. The Alaska Range is the most spectacular yet.
Too bad my camera sucks.
via Tapatalk
Note: I have no cell service in AK, wifi is tough to come by in all but built up areas. Updates will come as I'm able. Also, do not waste your money on Roam Mobility. It is a frustrating and ultimately useless service, only good for urban areas.
Today was to be the run on the aptly named Top of the World Highway, from Dawson City to Tok, Alaska. The TWH crosses into Alaska at Poker Creek. Going into town for breakfast would have meant two ferry rides for me, plus breakfast time, and nobody seems to move very fast in Dawson City, so I had a Clif bar and an apple instead. But where's the coffee? I waited for Bill, Dave, and Phil to cross.
It was 10:00am by the time we got going, only 100km to Alaska! The majority of the Top of the World is gravel, some sections hard packed, others loose. Without rain the last few days, it was incredibly dusty; at times visibility was severely limited. Conditions became tougher nearer the border, the bike darting about, trying to find a happy way. After some time, I noticed I was not seeing any of the scenery; the riding demanded 100% focus.
11:30am and we're in Poker Creek, the "most northerly land border port in the USA". It's also the easiest border crossing. I handed over my passport and was not asked a single question. Not one. A moment later, the passport is returned, he shows me the Poker Creek moose stamp, says have a nice day.
The four of us took a short break, shook hands on our achievement, took a few photos. Bill, Dave, and Phil went on, while I stayed back, agreeing to meet in Chicken. On my own now, I briefly pondered things, shed a tear, then hopped back on the bike.
The first few miles of the highway after the crossing are wonderful, billiard table smooth asphalt, unlike the dirt road on the Canadian side. Fast, sweeping curves, swooping uphill and down, what a ride! The party was over too soon, though, suddenly we're back on gravel. Different this time, though, much tighter, up and down through forested sections, even some really slow switchbacks. But still the same gravel, rutted, full of pot holes.
The first town is Chicken, population 15 (but it swells to 30 in the summer!). One flush toilet in town, no internet, no cell service. Plenty of bikes the parking lot of the gift shop/saloon/cafe. The cafe boasts of their chicken pot pie and homemade dessert pies, apple, cherry, and blueberry. I was going to have a slice of apple, then I spied a gigantic homemade brownie. Tough choice. For a moment, I foolishly considered having both, but common sense won out. So did the brownie. The three Alberta guys were in the saloon having a beer. I sat down in the cafe with another familiar face: Chuck Berry from Florida!
The saloon is a great old place, tiny, but jam packed with stuff. The ceiling is covered in hats. They don't know how many, but I suspect thousands.
After lunch, it was the second section of the TWH, to Tok. More gravel, more fun!
At Tok, I refuelled. I met a nice guy from Arizona. He and I instantly struck an agreement: he'd help me with my bike, if I'd loan him my chain lube. I need help when lubing the chain, someone to simply lift a bit of weight off the back wheel, just enough to allow it to spin. He needed to lube some squeaky steps on his motor home. Win, win! One more favour from him was to help me push the bike off the centre stand. If it's not on a perfectly level, smooth surface, it's enormously difficult to push off, especially when loaded up. Of course, I can do it on my own, but so much easier with a gentle push from a helper.
Fairbanks was a bit further than I wanted to go, so I stopped in Delta Junction. There was a dumpy motel, I guessed $59. The woman said "Sure, I have a room. $129." There was only one possible reply: "Could you direct me to the nearest campground, please?". I got a $15 tent site in an Alaska state park.
Upon setting up, I discovered a ruptured can of beer in one of the side cases. Ziplocs, people, use 'em!
The bike and all the gear are filthy dirty, especially from today's dusty ride. Even the GoPro is splattered in bugs. Speaking of GoPro, this Hero 4 Session is driving me nuts. It has a horrible user interface. Very difficult to use, many missed videos, it's not on when I think it is and vice versa. Sometimes, I can't even turn it off. Best to avoid, I think.
I had a good meal at a surprisingly nice restaurant; in fact, it seemed a bit it of place in this town. I may have looked out of place as well. It seems I've taken on a somewhat homeless appearance. Dirty motorcycle gear, unshaven, generally dishevelled. Whatever, I'm on vacation!
I bought a single, giant sized can of beer at the liquor store next door and happily sipped on it at the campsite.
By the way, I'm confused with the time. We picked up another hour entering AK, so that should be four hours behind EDST. My wife says not so. There was only three hours difference when we spoke. Can someone explain it to an idiot, please?
Critter count: zero.
Tomorrow: the Arctic Circle
Google maps is unable to plot a course on the Top of the World Highway, so I had to draw this one myself.
The highly coveted Poker Creek, AK passport stamp.
With Bill and Dave.
Chicken, AK
Gift shop, saloon, café.
Attack chickens?
Bill, Dave, and Phil warm the stools in the saloon.
Alaska state campground.
The not so pro GoPro.
Thunderbike crash bars make perfect beer holders.
Look closely, you might see mountains. The Alaska Range is the most spectacular yet.
Too bad my camera sucks.
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Day 13, Sunday June 19. The Lost Day. Delta Junction, AK to Fairbanks, AK 218km.
So much for the Arctic Circle today.
The prior night was extraordinarily windy. I thought the tent was going to blow away at one point. Even so, it was the best tent sleep I've had so far. I woke to grey skies and the same wind. A weather alert had been issued. It made packing up the tent a bit of an adventure. The day's plans were in doubt.
I considered my options over breakfast. I understand the Dalton highway is tricky at the best of times. Rain can turn the gravel sections into a slick and sloppy mess. I'd rather avoid.
I rode on to Fairbanks, about one hundred miles from Delta Junction. Not long into the ride, I realized it was no longer windy. As a local explained to me later, "It's always windy there!"
Questionable weather, a late start to the day, and an oil change which needed to be done sooner, rather than later, had me changing plans. I'd also carelessly misplaced my Buff, so I set out to find one in Fairbanks, following a short stop in North Pole, AK.
Finding the Buff was a frustrating ordeal; what should have taken twenty minutes or so took well over an hour and no less than five different stores. Even at a proper outfitter, I was looked at with blank stares. "What's a Buff?"
The next stop was Adventure Cycleworks on the north side of town. Dan is a one man band working from his own home, who provides mechanical and tire services to riders twenty four hours a day, seven days a week. No appointment necessary. Nice guy, good conversation, great service. He had me on my way in about an hour.
With much of the afternoon gone, I spoiled myself with a Starbucks and some free wifi. Time to catch up on some writing.
I pitched the tent at a local RV park, and had a much needed shower.
Dinner at the independents is always hit and miss; you never know what you're going to get. Tonight, I was a loser. Bland food, indifferent service, cold coffee.
So, here I am, late Sunday night, under light rain, typing away in the tent.
Monday weather is not promising...
Between Delta Junction and Fairbanks.
North Pole, AK
The River's Edge RV Park in Fairbanks. It's actually nicer than the photo suggests.
via Tapatalk
So much for the Arctic Circle today.
The prior night was extraordinarily windy. I thought the tent was going to blow away at one point. Even so, it was the best tent sleep I've had so far. I woke to grey skies and the same wind. A weather alert had been issued. It made packing up the tent a bit of an adventure. The day's plans were in doubt.
I considered my options over breakfast. I understand the Dalton highway is tricky at the best of times. Rain can turn the gravel sections into a slick and sloppy mess. I'd rather avoid.
I rode on to Fairbanks, about one hundred miles from Delta Junction. Not long into the ride, I realized it was no longer windy. As a local explained to me later, "It's always windy there!"
Questionable weather, a late start to the day, and an oil change which needed to be done sooner, rather than later, had me changing plans. I'd also carelessly misplaced my Buff, so I set out to find one in Fairbanks, following a short stop in North Pole, AK.
Finding the Buff was a frustrating ordeal; what should have taken twenty minutes or so took well over an hour and no less than five different stores. Even at a proper outfitter, I was looked at with blank stares. "What's a Buff?"
The next stop was Adventure Cycleworks on the north side of town. Dan is a one man band working from his own home, who provides mechanical and tire services to riders twenty four hours a day, seven days a week. No appointment necessary. Nice guy, good conversation, great service. He had me on my way in about an hour.
With much of the afternoon gone, I spoiled myself with a Starbucks and some free wifi. Time to catch up on some writing.
I pitched the tent at a local RV park, and had a much needed shower.
Dinner at the independents is always hit and miss; you never know what you're going to get. Tonight, I was a loser. Bland food, indifferent service, cold coffee.
So, here I am, late Sunday night, under light rain, typing away in the tent.
Monday weather is not promising...
Between Delta Junction and Fairbanks.
North Pole, AK
The River's Edge RV Park in Fairbanks. It's actually nicer than the photo suggests.
via Tapatalk
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found the same thing tho it is perhaps better in the east. WHat was worse was seeing others with cell service
be happy for the dust ....in the wet that is just about the squirmiest section of road I've driven and we were in a AWD!!! Good for you to get through it upright.
THAT's a good thing to know
http://www.advcycleworks.com
Weather looks locallized near Fairbanks - you should ride out of it. Hard to tell whichway it's heading tho.
http://radar.weather.gov/Conus/alaska_loop.php
Good luck.
If you need a rain break and a good coffee....we enjoyed the visit here
https://www.uaf.edu/museum/
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We travel a lot and I've used Roam for many trips. It's OK, it's not perfect, but it can't make cell service appear where there is none to begin with which is what seems to irk many people. That said, you wouldn't get *any* cellphone to work in some places people expect Roam to work.
When the guy next to you is getting cell and you aren't ....it sucks.
https://www.roammobility.com/coverage
Maybe it's better now in the west but it was almost a waste of money for us.
https://www.roammobility.com/coverage
Maybe it's better now in the west but it was almost a waste of money for us.
wonderings
Well-known member
I purchased a roam mobility sim. I was a bit surprised to see the coverage, not sure why I just assumed it would be pretty big. Anyways for the trips I have this year they are all in coverage areas, so the saves alone is worth it. Before any trips out west I will be checking to see if it is worth it.
Roam favors the TMobile network which isn't as large as the alternatives like AT&T. If you want AT&T level service it's prudent to just get a PAYG sim from them instead. Roam does have an expanded network feature that will include AT&T coverage however but it's primarily voice and text only, data allotment is small.
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