Ride the Divide *pics* | GTAMotorcycle.com

Ride the Divide *pics*

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Hi, we've been in Colorado for almost a week now, riding the passes along the Continental Divide.

Got a day off today, so I'm slowly collecting all the pics and videos from the past few days of riding. Here's one that pretty much typifies what we've been going through:

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More to follow.
 
I almost didn't notice the guys behind the pole at first. Gotta zoom way in for that.
 
Every July/August, the valleys of the BC interior experience intense heat (average temps around 35C) and as a result, forest fires ensue. In addition, tourists from Vancouver and Calgary, on their summer vacation, descend on our town and the population seems like it doubles, causing congestion on the roads as RVs and boat trailers clog up what little road infrastructure we have.

We've been here long enough that we know this is the best time to skip town. The idea is to head to higher ground and take advantage of the altitude and elevation of the Rocky Mountains to take the edge off this summer heat.

Also, it doesn't hurt that some of the best motorcycle roads are in the same places where the mountains are, and the tallest ranges are along what's called the Continental Divide.

What is the Continental Divide?

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It's a ridge that separates the continent's river systems. If water were to fall on this imaginary line, anything to the west of this line would find its way to the Pacific Ocean and anything east would eventually wind up in the Atlantic Ocean.

While there are many famous roads along the divide, like Loveland Pass and Independence Pass, we're on enduros for this trip, so our plan is to ride more of the off-road trails instead of tarmac. Less traffic and a lot more fun!

There's a reason why we chose Colorado for this trip, instead of other states and provinces along the Continental Divide. Back in 2009, Neda was part of a charity ride for breast cancer called Adventures for the Cure, involving twelve women riding dual sport bikes around the state. One of the sponsors was Progressive Insurance, and she was asked to be involved in their marketing campaign. The ad was run in many motorcycle magazines in print:

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She also got to meet Flo!

Neda and I got into dirt-biking shortly after the ride and she's always wanted to show me some of the trails that she did with the Dirty Dozen. As a result, she's been excitedly doing the majority of the route planning for this Colorado trip.
 
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We've set up a base camp to launch day rides within the area at Peak One campsite just outside Breckenridge, Colorado. Elevation 9600 feet (3000m) above sea level

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Home suite, home!

We're also taking a day off to acclimatize to the altitude, hiking around around the very scenic campgrounds.

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Our tent site backs up to a man-made lake, the Dillon Reservoir, which supplies water to the city of Denver and its surrounding areas. Kayaking and stand-up paddling is a popular activity here, as well as disc golf (with frisbees) along the coast of the reservoir.

While walking around the expansive campsite, we're constantly out of breath and we have to remind ourselves that it's the high altitude that's messing with our stamina and that we're not really *that* out-of-shape. Well, maybe more of the latter in my case...

During the Dirty Dozen charity ride, Neda fell ill with Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) and had to be taken to the hospital. In order to prevent that from happening again, we're on a steady diet of Diamox, pills that blunt the affect of altitude sickness. However, one of the side effects is drowsiness and tingling in the hands and feet. They weren't joking! The day after we starting taking the pills I had to take a nap in the middle of the afternoon and all throughout the day, we experienced the Friendly-Neighbourhood-Spidey-Sense in our hands and feet.
 
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Text-book definition of a shade-tree mechanic!

We're also spending our first day here prepping our bikes and while Neda's bike is okay, mine is not doing so well...

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Battery dead. Tried to bump it, but the gravel road offered no grip for the rear tire, and even in third gear I'm just not heavy enough to get traction over the rear wheel. Damn 500cc single. Need to eat more Big Macs! I guess I could have tow-started it with the Husky, but it was just easier to jump-start it from the truck. Ran it for a few minutes but the battery wouldn't hold a charge. Fugg.

So we trailered the bike over to the local dealer in town. Obviously being peak season in a tourist town, they were booked solid for service, so I borrowed a multimeter and a continuity tester from them to check the charging system and to try to ferret out any parasitic draws. Did all the wrenching right in their parking lot. I discovered that the resting charge and running charge was the same. NOT GOOD. It might be either the stator or regulator. Fugg.

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I'm not very good at wrenching, so when stuff goes wrong, it always ends up being self-sabotage rather than a true mechanical failure. So before doing any further testing of the stator and regulator wires, I started going backwards in time in my head - reviewing all of the latest mods I've installed on the bike. I honed in on the Baja Designs LED headlights that I put in before our Mexico trip a couple of months ago. Those lights turned out to be way too bright for on-road use, so I ended up disabling it fairly early on in the ride. So just to eliminate this source, I unplugged the LEDs at the harness, started the bike up and got 13.96V from the charging system. Huh! Not great, but better than the 13.3V before. I think this will charge now? Gotta keep an eye on it. Fingers and toes crossed.
 
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Back at camp, Neda makes dinner

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Also, this little guy comes over to help inspect my front wheel

Or maybe he's more interested in what Neda's cooking up? Nah. He looked like he was definitely checking tread depth and air pressure.

The sun sets fairly late this time of year, but sleep comes easy thanks to our Altitude Sickness pills and our hands and feet tingle in anticipation of tomorrow's first ride!
 
I've been asked why we camp so often and make our own food instead of eating out. While it is way more convenient to check in and out of motels and go to restaurants, it's also insanely expensive. I don't mind camping, but if we were independently wealthy, I'd personally much rather sleep under a roof. So it's more out of financial necessity rather than a love of roughing it. We've also been feeling the impact of the recent surge in inflation and our dollar isn't going as far it did just a year ago.

I wrote up a ride report last year entitled: Ride BC for less than $50/day. This is just not possible today.

As an exercise, we did check prices of motels on the way to CO. The Rocky Mountain Range is a huge tourist draw, with all of its nature on offer to summer vacationers. With surge pricing, the average rate for accommodations is $200 USD/night! Add to this, the exchange rate sucks for Canadians right now, so it ends up being $265 CDN just for a place to sleep. The camp sites that we've been able to find averages out to around $25-30 USD/night. 1 night in a motel = 9-10 nights at a campsite. That kind of math just makes it more viable to stay out for longer instead of burning through our travel funds at lightning speed.
 
How are the fuel prices that way?
Seems from your North BC trip, fuel was $1.70 ltr, (noticed in one photo, Ontario isn't far behind now at $1.60)
 
How are the fuel prices that way?
Seems from your North BC trip, fuel was $1.70 ltr, (noticed in one photo, Ontario isn't far behind now at $1.60)

In Colorado, prices here are around $3.89 USD per gallon. So about $1.36 CDN per litre, if my math is any good?

We get taxed to death up in Canada, it's disgusting.
 
In Colorado, prices here are around $3.89 USD per gallon. So about $1.36 CDN per litre, if my math is any good?

We get taxed to death up in Canada, it's disgusting.
Wow that's alright.
Yes agreed, the Canadian way...
 
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Our first day of riding! Today we're easing ourselves into the dirt roads around the area, just to get a lay of the land before we go hardcore. I did some research and found an OHV area just east of town called Golden Horseshoe Trail System. Google Maps won't route through these trails, so I had to overlay my mapping SW over it - it's the track in red.

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Tiger Road runs off the main highway and on the way to the OHV area we pass by some really swanky houses. Lots of money here. Probably secondary homes and cottages for the rich Denver crowd...

There's a staging area where the asphalt ends and Tiger Roads becomes North Fork "Road". Quotes because it's basically a chewed up gravel road where off-road vehicles are allowed to roam. Even though it's a Friday, there seem to be a lot of side-by-sides ripping up and down North Fork.

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What makes North Fork Road popular with the OHV crowd is that there are all these tiny single track trails that run off it. Most of them are in-and-out dead-ends, so we explore a dual-track that looks a bit larger.

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Fook! It's gnarly! I thought we were going to take it easy today?

Neda motors up the hill, but I'm still feeling lethargic - either because I'm out of shape or because of the Diamox pills. Let's just blame the drugs shall we?

Because I'm tired, I end up sitting most of the time which is a BIG MISTAKE. I make it up the hill and we decide to turn around and head back. But on the way down, I hit a huge rock and the bike seat bounces up and launches my seated ass right off the motorcycle like a beach ball and I land awkwardly on my side on a pile of rubble. Ow.

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This is where I fell

It wasn't even a particularly difficult section, and I was going super-slow downhill. But I shouldn't have been sitting. I could feel a huge bruise forming on my back and left thigh already. I thought we were taking it easy on our first day!!!!
 
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At the foot of the trail, we passed by a Can-Am RZR and a couple of MX bikes so we waved hello, then turned off to continue towards the rest of North Fork.

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A little water crossing

Shortly after the crossing we were confronted with a wall of boulders. The executive decision was easy to make: Nope. Nope. And nope. Not today, Satan.

We turned around and the MX guys smiled at us, "Pretty gnarly!"

We laughed and continued back the way we came in.

Okay. So the new plan is to double back and continue south on Tiger Road and try our hand at Georgia Pass. The first part of the road is called Parkville Road and it was *not* a walk in the park.

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First section is pretty nice

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But then the gnar returned with a vengeance

This was probably the most challenging section of Parkville "Road" - we were riding uphill up a creek bed that still had water running down it. Pictures don't do justice to how steep it was, and Neda was kicking up quite the spray while her bike danced across the rocks.

I. Thought. We. Were. Taking. It. EASY. TODAY!!!!!
 
The trail was very crowded for a Friday. We passed a ton of Razors, Jeeps and trucks. While we flew past them on the potholes and gravel sections, they all passed us right back in a see-saw-game of catch-up on the uphill rocky climbs, as we picked our line slowly up and down the trail. Most of them had pretty good trail etiquette, giving us lots of space and letting us know how many vehicles were left in their convoy as we passed them.

We didn't see any motorcycles here though. I wonder why...?

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Finally we reached the summit! Posed for the obligatory "OMG Can't Believe We Didn't Die" shot...

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This is the Continental Divide sign up at the top of Georgia Pass. I'm going to start collecting these from now on

So basically, if I kicked my bike over on the left of the sign, it would tumble all the way into the Atlantic Ocean. But if it fell towards the right, it would end up in the Pacific Ocean...

I'm going to try to keep it upright, I think. :D

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The view is sublime from up at the top of Georgia Pass!
 
Parkville Road continues downhill and it's an OHV trail. We watched all the Razors turn off on that road. But since we're street-legal bikes, we could continue onto the rest of Georgia Pass, labelled County Road 54 all the way to the main Highway 285. This was just a normal graded gravel road, suitable for passenger vehicles, but after the morning we just had, we were happy just to cruise along and enjoy the scenery on the way back down from the summit.

At Hwy 285, I turned the navigation over back to Neda and she led me through some of the roads that her Dirty Dozen crew took back in 2009. The first stop was a ghost town called Como.

A lot of these pictures that we took were re-shots of her ride 14 years ago!

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When Neda saw this trailer outside this run-down building, she exclaimed, "OMG, I can't believe it's still here!!! I gotta get a shot of this and send it to the ladies!" :)

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Then she led me to another ruin and said, "I wonder if the... OMG! Look! It's still here!!!!"

She was giddy with excitement! There really is something amazing about things that don't change one tiny bit even after a decade and a half... Ghost towns and grandparents are like that.
 
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We did manage to make new memories as well!

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I tell people that my motorcycle handles like it's on rails, now I have the picture to prove it

This is the old abandoned Como railway station.

Leaving the ghost town behind us, we take the Boreas Pass, which is a light gravel road that runs between Como and Breckenridge. The Dirty Dozen ride was an introduction to Adventure riding, so the roads the organizer took the women on were very easy.

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Still, with some great scenery though!

Neda was telling me over the intercom how the ride leaders were telling the ladies to "Sit when it's easy, stand when it's hard. Don't tire yourself out!" But everyone was so excited about off-road riding, that they stood on their pegs anytime there was gravel beneath their wheels! :)

We sat the entire time on Boreas Pass. North Fork Road and the altitude sickness drugs really forked up our energy levels...
 
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At the summit, we stopped to take a quick pic of the CD sign. Yes, Boreas Pass is a CD trail!

The skies towards Breckenridge were threatening rain, so we had to quickly hoof it back before we got wet.

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Fork. Too late. And it was hail too...

The thing about MX helmets is that, although it vents a lot of air when you're going slow, it also lets in a lot of crap. Dust quickly forms around your mouth, giving you a "roostache". And hail... well, it manages to find it's way in between the goggles and the chin bar and pings off your lips and cheeks, stinging you with each strike. ouch. ouch. ouch.

We pass by this big wooden water tank. Neda yells over the intercom, "WAIT! WE HAVE TO STOP HERE!"

Why?!?

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Oh

A KwikPic and then back to the hail. As soon as we reach the main road, at least it had the decency to revert back to normal rain...
 
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We grossly misjudged how long this ride would take us. We don't have any food other than Cliff's bars and we are fookin starving! AND it's pouring rain.

We reach the commercial centre of Breckenridge and we're both surprised at how swanky it is.

Neda tells me a story of how when she rode the Boreas Pass fourteen years ago, the organizers gave all the women the option of continuing to ride or go shopping in Breckenridge. Of course my wife chose to keep on riding (of course), along with two others. But the rest of the ladies opted for shopping. We could both see why now. Lots of swanky, high-end stores here. It reminded me of mountain resort towns like Banff or Vail.

This has been quite the trip down memory lane for Neda. But also, for the paths-not-taken, she now has the opportunity to see what she missed the first time around. Just that it's raining cats and dogs right now. We ride by tourists caught out in the storm, running from shop to shop.

Our original plan was to head to the grocery store and buy some food to cook up back at the campsite. But there's no way we're cooking in the rain and we're both starting to get very hangry and short with each other. So we decide to splurge a bit, because we just so happened to ride by The Perfect Place to eat:

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PHO Real! LOL! We LOVE Vietnamese food! Done and decided!

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Not the cheapest pho we've ever eaten, but when you're cold, wet and miserable, this was comfort food to soothe the soul!
 
The food was so good inside, and the weather was so bad outside. We thought we could wait out the storm, but the rain just went on and on like it would never stop. So after a good long while sitting inside the warm restaurant watching the angry, grey sky above Breckenridge, we ventured out into the cold and wet. It's only 10 kms back to our campsite, surely we can survive a little rain, right?

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Wrong. So very wrong. Those in charge upstairs had something different planned for us

Halfway back to Peak One, tiny ice cubes shot down from the clouds as if they were fired out of machine guns. Cars and trucks were pulling over because the hail was not melting on the pavement, but collecting in a slushy, soupy, slippery mess underneath our tires. The force of the ice pellets penetrated our rain suits and riding gear, leaving huge welts on any exposed body parts not covered by armor - our forearms and thighs taking the brunt of the abuse from above.

We had to pull over and seek shelter. I spotted literal shelter up ahead - it was a bus stop. So we turned our bikes off and sprinted towards sanctuary. Passing cars and trucks splashed icy water against the glass of the bus shelter, as we finally gained a respite from the hailstorm. We stayed huddled in there, helmets and full gear on, looking like we were waiting for public transit to spirit us away from this freezing madness.

Ten minutes passed and the skies turned blue and clear again, the only evidence there was any havoc from earlier was a sea of ice cubes still amassed on the pavement. Our bike seats were covered with white pellets and we brushed them off and continued our slippery ride back to the campsite.

I honestly believed we were going to take it easy today...
 

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