Meh, reading 2 minutes into it almost turned me into a nerd.... More than enough for meAll I need to know is that if I have a nerd related problem I can call you and if you have a bike related problem you can call me
Werd!
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Werd!
FZ6GoldenRetriever
Member
what kinda pussy winterizes the bike? i rode thru last winter, as low as -10c. did go down twice tho. once from black ice and one from slush. minimal damage thanks to sliders lol.
Same. It wasn't even a "go-down" down. More like a swerve through the snow, which slows you down so much you're tipping in slow motion, easy to catch yourself lol.
Only thing is, the new bike has much more metal and chrome exposed, I know the salt will destroy it since I don't have a garage to give the bike a nice wash in, don't think I can get around this :confused1:
I was thinking the same.
Your oil filter will sit fairly empty.
And if the argument goes that the oil in the engine (pre-change) is acidic to some degree, and ruins the engine, then you'd want to run it. When you drain the oil, not every drop comes out. Thin films of the old oil will still be around most of the journal bearings and such. So the very oil you want to not attack your engine, will still be the oil against the engine. At least if you then run the engine, that will be swapped out. Not sure though.
Does anyone actually switch from the dry greases to the heavy wax?
O
Obiwan Kenoobie
Guest
Jtracc600
Member
i just changed my oil less then 1000km ago with synthetic. i am not going to spend another 60$ to just do a oil change for the hell of it. the oil is still new... you dont need to changed the oil if you just did it, thats just stupid and a good way to remove currency from your wallet.
Hawk
Well-known member
Canada Trash sells an engine storage spray to fog the cylinders. I use Seafoam mixed in the fuel for storage. Plus after draining the 4 carbs, I blow a small amount of straight Seafoam up through the drain holes into the drained carbs. I did this last winter and in the spring the choke/fuel system had never worked better. It had months for Seafoam to work on cleaning the small passages in the carbs. I also leave the battery in the bike and use the battery tender connection installed on the bike. A fully charged battery will not freeze plus colder temps slow down the discharge rate of the battery as it sits.
squid pro quo
Well-known member
so i have a carb engine .. sounds like the thing to do is NOT drain them and just to add fuel stabilizer, run the engine for 5 minutes to get it flowing into the carbs and the whole fuel system .. then store it with the carbs FULL of stabilized fuel.
sklein25
Member
NO! Add the fuel stabilizer, top up the tank with more fuel (to the top), and run the bike for a few minutes to distribute the stabilized fuel mixture through the carbs! As you are running it, turn the fuel tap to the OFF position and watch as the bike slowly konks out on it's own cuz you have cut off the fuel supply to it. Now drain all the carbs of any little bits of fuel still left in the float bowls, manually with a long screw driver or long allen key (whichever your float bowl leak screw takes). It's up to you if you want to remover the battery to put it on a tender charger or just leave it in the bike and carefully connect the tenderer to it directly.
Unless you have $$$ burn, I honestly don't thing it's even necessary for you to under go another oil change so soon. AT how many KM's was your bike at 2 months ago when you had the full service done?
Cheers..........
Steve
frekeyguy
Well-known member
just change the oil in the spring, add fuel stabilizer and get your wheels off the ground.
watcanido
Member
Just a question does one really have to do all that? can't someone just start the bike let it run for like 20 minutes in a garage and then put it on a motorcycle stand (front and rear) and cover it after? then repeat in like 2-3 times a week? would this be okay to do for winter?
frekeyguy
Well-known member
you dont really need to drain the carbs (this might come bite me), but you do need to add fuel stabilizer and top up your tank.
you really shouldn't start it every so often, unless its in a heated garage, no point, you will be dry starting it as the bike just sits for a long period of time.
Agent-Gixxer
Member
When you guys change your oil?
1) After a ride when the engine is warm?
or
2) After sitting overnight?
I usually drain the oil after a short ride to get the engine warm and that's what the manual say.
1) After a ride when the engine is warm?
or
2) After sitting overnight?
I usually drain the oil after a short ride to get the engine warm and that's what the manual say.
V
Valkyrie
Guest
So uh, how bad is it if your battery is still sitting in the bike? I did everything else mentioned here but I didn't have a chance to get the battery out. It's sitting outside covered in a sheltered place...
V
Valkyrie
Guest
Can I just remove the battery, get jumper cables and boost it from a car and then replace the battery in the motorcycle? The battery was brand new last season.
I have a charger so I wouldn't.
However - read through this....http://www.gtamotorcycle.com/vbforum/showthread.php?t=74797
Might help you decide on a charger or a tender and may give you some food for thought.
T
However - read through this....http://www.gtamotorcycle.com/vbforum/showthread.php?t=74797
Might help you decide on a charger or a tender and may give you some food for thought.
T
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