|
|
|
Anyone into gardening here?
- Thread starter shanekingsley
- Start date
Move??
Sent from my MotoE2(4G-LTE) using Tapatalk
Sent from my MotoE2(4G-LTE) using Tapatalk
Weeds are often soil and environment indicators. For Creeping Charlie, it typically prefers: moist soil, shady conditions, thin grass areas that are low in nitrogen, low in organic matter and having poor drainage.
So the best ways to control it involve changing the environment that your grass is growing in to make the grass more healthy while promoting a less than favourable setting for the Creeping Charlie. Improve the drainage. Add organic matter higher in nitrogen content. Overseed with shade tolerant species if that problem area is shady and the grass is thin as a result. If you are watering regularly, water less often (infrequently but deeply). It's usually shallow rooted, so sometimes if you let the soil dry out, you might be able to rake a good portion of it up using a hard rake, since it spreads by above-ground runners (stolons).
Or... rent a sod cutter and strip the whole lawn area and re-sod it.
And by the way, it's edible - the flowers are sweet and sometimes used as a garnish when icing cakes. (It's been used as a diuretic, for kidney ailments and as a decongestant)
So the best ways to control it involve changing the environment that your grass is growing in to make the grass more healthy while promoting a less than favourable setting for the Creeping Charlie. Improve the drainage. Add organic matter higher in nitrogen content. Overseed with shade tolerant species if that problem area is shady and the grass is thin as a result. If you are watering regularly, water less often (infrequently but deeply). It's usually shallow rooted, so sometimes if you let the soil dry out, you might be able to rake a good portion of it up using a hard rake, since it spreads by above-ground runners (stolons).
Or... rent a sod cutter and strip the whole lawn area and re-sod it.
And by the way, it's edible - the flowers are sweet and sometimes used as a garnish when icing cakes. (It's been used as a diuretic, for kidney ailments and as a decongestant)
Lol Not an option.
Sent from my custom purple Joe Bass mobile device using Tapatalk
Strange...not a shady area, gets at least 5 hours of sun. Never really noticed the moist soil, but can be as the neighbours have their downspout emptying there. But I share a lawn with them and they have next to none. Low nitrogen and bare spots are probably my fault as I kinda neglected it. The area os only about 7 x 15 so maybe resod is the way to go.
Thanks Shane
Sent from my custom purple Joe Bass mobile device using Tapatalk
Thanks Shane
Sent from my custom purple Joe Bass mobile device using Tapatalk
Any tips on transplanting a tree? The living/dining rooms at my cottage get baked by the sun in the afternoon, and two trees have sprouted in my front yard. One is perfectly positioned to offer shade eventually, but one is far too close for comfort to the building. They're obviously native and growing well - how big a hole do you dig (in the late fall I presume) to get the bulk of roots for a 4 foot tree?
How about a six inch diameter walnut tree that was born in the wrong spot? Back yard obstacle course location.
klrguy: Why do you say they are obviously native?
For transplanting, yes, wait until late summer/early fall - but not too late, unless you are there to make sure it can be watered in nicely. Outside air temps should ideally be between 8-20degC. Water the tree a few days before digging it up, to minimize root stress. Dig out the rootball at a size of about 18" diameter + 12" deep and if you have to remove some of the outer soil with a trowel, then fine, but ideally keep as much roots as possible ad try not to damage them.
When you replant it, try to use as much of the original soil as possible in your new hole, as this will also help reduce transplant shock. Your new hole should be about 2x the diameter of the rootball and 1.5x the depth. After planting it in and making sure there are no big air pockets in the root zone of the new location, water it in slowly and heavily and make sure it gets regularly soaked until the ground freezes. Since it's your cottage and you might not be there as often to water it, mound up the soil about 8-12" away from the trunk in a circular fashion, to keep water localized to the root ball area when it rains or gets watered. You can also put a layer of some mulch down to help prevent the soil drying out, but make sure that it's no more than 3" thick and at least 3" away from the trunk to allow that area to breathe. Mixing in some organic matter (ie compost) with the soil in the new hole, will also help with nutrient and water retention.
nobbie48: For the Black Walnut - a 6" diameter tree is pretty tall and know that it has a taproot, so it can be a bit more involved than a tree with a fibrous root system. Without seeing it, I would guess that you would need to dig about 48" diameter rootball and about 18-24" deep, but also trying to dig up the entire taproot without severing it if possible. Then follow the tips above while making sure that the tap root is also well placed in the new hole.
Good luck!
For transplanting, yes, wait until late summer/early fall - but not too late, unless you are there to make sure it can be watered in nicely. Outside air temps should ideally be between 8-20degC. Water the tree a few days before digging it up, to minimize root stress. Dig out the rootball at a size of about 18" diameter + 12" deep and if you have to remove some of the outer soil with a trowel, then fine, but ideally keep as much roots as possible ad try not to damage them.
When you replant it, try to use as much of the original soil as possible in your new hole, as this will also help reduce transplant shock. Your new hole should be about 2x the diameter of the rootball and 1.5x the depth. After planting it in and making sure there are no big air pockets in the root zone of the new location, water it in slowly and heavily and make sure it gets regularly soaked until the ground freezes. Since it's your cottage and you might not be there as often to water it, mound up the soil about 8-12" away from the trunk in a circular fashion, to keep water localized to the root ball area when it rains or gets watered. You can also put a layer of some mulch down to help prevent the soil drying out, but make sure that it's no more than 3" thick and at least 3" away from the trunk to allow that area to breathe. Mixing in some organic matter (ie compost) with the soil in the new hole, will also help with nutrient and water retention.
nobbie48: For the Black Walnut - a 6" diameter tree is pretty tall and know that it has a taproot, so it can be a bit more involved than a tree with a fibrous root system. Without seeing it, I would guess that you would need to dig about 48" diameter rootball and about 18-24" deep, but also trying to dig up the entire taproot without severing it if possible. Then follow the tips above while making sure that the tap root is also well placed in the new hole.
Good luck!
Thank you very much for the details - appreciate it. Maybe 'native' wasn't the correct word - I just meant that they self-seeded/rooted and are growing quite healthily with very little active help from me or anyone else.
Thanks again
Unless there is an owner's change of heart about reworking the spot the tree is future firewood. I'm guessing a tree like it would be several grand at a nursery but there are only three options for getting it out in one piece. Cut down a 12" cedar, demolish a garage or hire a Sikorsky Sky crane.
I guess it's being grown from seed? Do you know what damping off is? Potting soil can hold too much moisture due to the high peat content. Is it in a pot?
@FLSTC you have cukes already? I have 1 fava bean, and the zucchini is starting to flower but that's it.
And you put your cucumber plants vertical? I mean, have them climbing? I just let mine spread out.
Sent from my custom purple Joe Bass mobile device using Tapatalk
And you put your cucumber plants vertical? I mean, have them climbing? I just let mine spread out.
Sent from my custom purple Joe Bass mobile device using Tapatalk
FLSTC
Well-known member
I must admit, I am just posing here. Mrs FLSTC plants the veggies (and ornamental plants). I just do the lawn mowing, trimming, and weed pulling.
FLSTC
Well-known member
After the dandelion pandemic in early May, I found this weed to be the biggest trouble. Basically I just kept ahead of it by doing about 10 - 15min of weeding every day.
I've rented a sod cutter from Home Depot before - works well. Problem to dump the old sod though. One of my coworkers replaced his front lawn with river rocks. We've got some nice ground cover plants in the backyard that could also replace the lawn - maybe not on a large scale...
I presented the lawn covering idea to my wife, she didn't like it. Also said no to artificial grass.
I've started doing what you said. Weed a bit every day. Cut a bit shorter. And grass seed.
Sent from my custom purple Joe Bass mobile device using Tapatalk
Because of the pie shaped lots that my neighbors and I have (we are in the bend) we have little to no front. 2 of my neighbors have done the river rock with trees and bushes. They used the bigger tocks which imo look better. If I didn't share the front with a neighbor I would consider it. (Stupid American auto correct)I found a photo of the 'river rock' front yard..
Sent from my custom purple Joe Bass mobile device using Tapatalk
|
|
|
|
|