Rebuilding a 2 stroke? | Page 11 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Rebuilding a 2 stroke?

bitzz said:
A fuel filter is a GOOD idea. If it is sized correctly you WILL NOT have feed problems. (If you still worry about feed, put a larger diameter clear fuel line on AFTER the filter. That will act like a reservoir). All my bikes are gravity feed fuel systems, they all have filters and fuel starvation because of the filter has never been a problem.

Draining the tank and carb is a GOOD idea. If you installed that "dry break" in your fuel line use that to drain the tank. To drain the carb loosen the screw on the bottom of the float bowl and drain it into a small bowl (I use the lid of a spray can). The screw is easily reached with a long straight screw driver.
The jets in that thing are so small I would drain the carbs if it was going to sit more than a week or two.

This time BE SURE to get the head and barrel " re torqued" after you put a couple of heat cycles into that motor.
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Thanks for the advice.

I did intend on making arrangements with you once it warmed up a bit more to get to you for the retorque. It was past the 500 km you recommended when it failed. It was at 1200 km. I'll follow up with Pro6 about that since they didn't mention it this time. They did say they already put it through several heat cycles although that was before they fixed the carb, which kind of surprised me.
 
Here's some pics of the crank for those interested.

Old crank:
43V5QPN.jpg


Old crank closeup:
Qu1DeKJ.jpg


New crank:
xUwrDlX.jpg


New crank closeup:
ebS9SLa.jpg


I kept it thinking I could just replace the connecting rod based on what they had told me previously but there was a miscommunication there and the wear was not what they originally told me. Seeing this new wear it doesn't look like there's anything worth keeping here. Pro6 said the same thing. Might keep it just because.
 
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Piston and power valve:
8xy8nzt.jpg

ppWCYjh.jpg


Cylinder:
0AQgWs1.jpg
 
Closeup of piston damage:
RHA3lxv.jpg
 
Fixed the crank images that weren't working.
 
Rode to work yesterday and today. Bike seems to be running well. It popped out of 4th on me today, though. Looks like I might be looking at even more repairs in the future.
 
Delboy said:
Ouch :(

Glad to see you are up and running again
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Thanks! I'm glad too but the season is pretty much over. I'm already breaking the rule Pro6 told me (no riding the thing under 10C).

Just did a quick compression check. I still only got about 100 PSI. Seems low. Guess I'll ask Pro6 if they did one.

Low fuel light just came on and I wanted to ride tomorrow but I also don't want to fill the tank again. Wonder what my range is once the light comes on. It's only about 50 km round trip to work. Reserve (which I presume means when the light comes on) is 3.5 L which should get me to just over 50 km (my average on Fuelly is 5.9 L/100 km)... Maybe I'll risk it and just carry a bottle of SeaFoam to use as fuel if I run out (actually that's probably not the greatest idea).

Tried to find the carb drain screw but nothing stood out to me. There is nothing labelled as such in the parts catalog that I can find. Google search didn't help too much. Some searching and looking at the parts catalog found me some posts saying the drain screw is on the bottom of the carb but also holds the main jet in and holds the whole float bowl to the rest of the carb? That doesn't seem quite right to me. Anyone have tips?
 
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GateKeeper said:
From what I see what you said is correct, remove that big bottom screw and the main jet comes off as well as the entire bowl
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That sounds messier to drain then I thought then. :/

Guess I'll need some rags. Wonder how I even access that.

Also, the plug looked like it had some dings in it around the outside.

JAh7wn9.jpg
 
GateKeeper said:
From what I see what you said is correct, remove that big bottom screw and the main jet comes off as well as the entire bowl

https://youtu.be/zR6Np-49WVE
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Thanks for the video. Is it possible that the hose sticking out of the side at 2:09 is the drain hose? Maybe just loosen the bolt rather than remove and it can be drained? Still dunno how to access that with it on the bike, anyway, though. Maybe a wrench through the side somehow.


At least it looks easy to remove the carb.


Odd that in the step where he says to turn off the fuel all he does is pull the fuel line. And somehow no fuel goes everywhere? Or will that not happen like I think it will?
 
See at 2:01 what looks like a nut he is unscrewing from the bottom of the carb, that's your drain. Unscrew it then put it back in. If you can't get a wrench in there from the side you might be able to loosen the hose clamps on each side of the carb and twist it to gain access to the drain. It won't make a huge mess there is only a small amount of fuel in there.

I didn't see where you mean by removing the fuel line but do you mean the line to the carb? If so there's probably a valve (should be shutting this off when you turn the bike off) between the tank and the carb. It will be a small valve with a tiny handle that you turn on direction from off to on. If that doesn't make sense I'll take a pic of one off a dirt bike. If this isn't what you mean, sorry disregard it.
 
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blackcamaro said:
See at 2:01 what looks like a nut he is unscrewing from the bottom of the carb, that's your drain. Unscrew it then put it back in. If you can't get a wrench in there from the side you might be able to loosen the hose clamps on each side of the carb and twist it to gain access to the drain. It won't make a huge mess there is only a small amount of fuel in there.
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I can see that's the drain. Pro6 told me there would be a screw out the side and a hose. I'd like to catch it rather than have it dump all over the top of the transmission and then the ground. Having a hose would be easier. Maybe that won't happen though. I'll have to look at it again tomorrow when it's light out (it was already getting dark at 5ish when I did this). At 2:09 you can see a hose sticking out sideways that appears to be somewhat related to that bolt but on second look it's probably a float overflow?
naq4twM.png


blackcamaro said:
I didn't see where you mean by removing the fuel line but do you mean the line to the carb? If so there's probably a valve (should be shutting this off when you turn the bike off) between the tank and the carb. It will be a small valve with a tiny handle that you turn on direction from off to on. If that doesn't make sense I'll take a pic of one off a dirt bike. If this isn't what you mean, sorry disregard it.
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There is some kind of vacuum fuel tap on the bottom of the tank with two hoses that go to the carb. I never noticed a lever on it but I will look for that, as well. Or maybe if I disconnect the vacuum hose first it will close the fuel tap and I don't need to worry about it? I never got around to putting in a fuel line disconnect like Bitzz mentioned earlier. If I can just turn it off somehow then I don't see the need.

Got a pic of that tap:
cJNl3xU.jpg
 
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Okay, yeah that hose is either going to be a vent or overflow for the bowl. Anyways the only way your draining it is good old lefty loosey righty tighty on that drain bolt. I think your overthinking the amount that's going to come out, it might be a couple of bottle caps worth of fuel. The gas will evaporate and if the small amount of oil on the case really bugs you hit with some contact cleaner and a rag. All done.

Now what I said about that valve, disregard what I said. I expected one very similar to a plumbing shut off valve then yes you would be able to just yank the line off the carb. Can't help you there sorry dude.

Are the fairings easy to take off that bike? I'd start by taking off the side that the exhaust doesn't run along and see if you can access the carb that way. Failing that I guess you might have to take it out like in the video, seems like a pita just to drain the thing.
 
You might end up with 20ml of gas draining out. Put a rag under the bowl, remove the nut, and store the bike.

That is the over flow hose in the picture. If your float sticks open that's where the gas will leak out.
 
Thanks.
 
Well Pro6 thinks my low compression reading is because I did it without disconnecting the fuel line, which seems incorrect to me. They want me to redo it with the line disconnected. Maybe I'll just bring it back to them to test. Although I gotta disconnect to winterize anyway.
 
That doesn't really make a lot of sense to me either, if anything I would think it would be the opposite.

Anyways if you question it then you probably should take it back to the shop that did the work just to double check. If there is a problem it's a lot easier to deal with it now then later and you just spent quite a bit of money on that thing.
 
Agreed. I'm out of town for the rest of the week so hopefully I still get another good day to ride it over.

I did find that drain bolt.

Look at the little gap in the fairing above the front sprocket cover.
vPLIbOk.jpg


Little closer.
TCQYILN.jpg


There it is!
nfBjGhf.jpg


Might be able to get a wrench in there and a little cap to catch it (maybe, or just rags).
 
Why bother? Just turn off the petcock, start it up and run it till it dies. Carb is drained.

Sent from my SM-A500W using Tapatalk
 
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