We don't remove the engine, we just throw it in reverse when its off so that it's locked down. From what I've read, many small outboards don't lock in forward gear so that if you run into something it just pops the motor up. Generally the prop force keeps it fully down in forward, but in Neutral and Reverse it locks.
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Outboard Motor Vibration in Neutral?
- Thread starter MaksTO
- Start date
The boat is a Kelt 7.6. It's a very unique engine layout for sure. Often there's a mount hung off the transom, but this is inside the cockpit and in front of the rudder. Unconventional, but makes accessing the motor and steering with it at low speed very handy. Also means it doesn't get swamped in rough seas!
Edit: It's actually a french design, though design was changed slightly when they bought the manufacturing rights in Aurora. I think in Europe it had the engine as you described, but for Canada it seems they put the well in the cockpit instead of in the cabin. I agree, having engine in the cabin would be a PITA.
Ha! I knew it would be a frenchy. Several Kelts in my harbour , great value / performance for the money . One is convereted to stern hung motor and he has added electric start and tips it up when sailing to minimize drag. I had a Niagara 30 with a well , we put a bracket on the mast down inside the cabin and put the motor down there when racing . Great idea till you need to haul it out in 4ft waves and get it back into the well .
Electric options get better every year and more manufactures are getting on it . Our FlyingTiger 7.5 had a Torqueedo electric outboard, that was 14yrs ago and it was 5 yrs old when we got it . It worked but barely .
Kelt was another builder that died as a direct result of the massive Canadian marine implossion thanks to C&C. Banks were calling operating lines of credit everywhere in that industry
Electric options get better every year and more manufactures are getting on it . Our FlyingTiger 7.5 had a Torqueedo electric outboard, that was 14yrs ago and it was 5 yrs old when we got it . It worked but barely .
Kelt was another builder that died as a direct result of the massive Canadian marine implossion thanks to C&C. Banks were calling operating lines of credit everywhere in that industry
Oh cool! What harbor are you at?
We briefly thought about doing transom hung, but then steering at low speeds would be a pain, and it would be less visually appealing. Inboard is nice when it works - and hopefully our fix holds up for a good long time
I think if electric dropped down to around $5k for a 6hp equivalent we would jump on it, but for now we have other fish to fry (I have to install new standing rigging and a new roller furler next week... hopefully that goes OK).
Didn't know C&C caused a marine manufacturing implosion in Canada - what caused it out of curiosity? Was it the general economic crash? Our Kelt is a 1984, which I believe was the last year they were manufacturing them. Love the boat - but also curse the damn carpet headliner inside... Gotta figure out how to get all the mildew out of that so I can sleep in the boat comfortably
I’m out in Bronte , if you’re ever over our way stop in . I’m the Commodore of Bronte yacht club , such as it is .
New furler and standing rigging ? You tripled the value of the boat . I put a Selden furler on last yr , replaced a 25yr old Harken that was F’d , no parts available.
C&C started the avalanche, they way over extended, the US put a large tariff on imported boats , the US coastguard passed a ruling that any inboard sailboat had to be diesel ( added 8k to every boat) and as CC started to tumble the financing banks pulled CS boats , Tanzer, Kelt ( which also has a hand in star marine) and a dozen others under . Hinterholler , Goeman, and so on. Smart guys that were part of C&C success but stayed independent contractors like Klaco and Bruckmann are still in business doing well .
We bank on 3-5k a season in upgrades and maintenance. Once we get everything perfect we sell and buy some other floating turd ….
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New furler and standing rigging ? You tripled the value of the boat . I put a Selden furler on last yr , replaced a 25yr old Harken that was F’d , no parts available.
C&C started the avalanche, they way over extended, the US put a large tariff on imported boats , the US coastguard passed a ruling that any inboard sailboat had to be diesel ( added 8k to every boat) and as CC started to tumble the financing banks pulled CS boats , Tanzer, Kelt ( which also has a hand in star marine) and a dozen others under . Hinterholler , Goeman, and so on. Smart guys that were part of C&C success but stayed independent contractors like Klaco and Bruckmann are still in business doing well .
We bank on 3-5k a season in upgrades and maintenance. Once we get everything perfect we sell and buy some other floating turd ….
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Nice! I'm out at QCYC on the Toronto Islands. Hoping to do more trips this year, so I'd definitely like to swing by Bronte sometime
I wonder if we organize a reciprocal cruise with your club - I should check our schedule.Our furler stopped working last year so it was time for new (Went for Selden 104s). Forestay had a broken strand too, so that was also a sign for me to replace the rigging of unknown age. Thankfully for a boat this size it wound up being a little cheaper than I was originally thinking. Regardless the more i read the installation manual the more I realize this might be more than a days work for a first timer. Need to install a Halyard Restrainer as well so now I have to research what kind of rivets to use etc etc. It never ends!
Interesting to know about the US Tariffs and massive push to Diesel. I guess that explains why you see so many of them around now (at least partly).
3-5K in costs a year sounds about right. I always look at other boats, but feel like this one was such a steal for us and is a good platform to learn repairs on too. I just assume any other boat will also have similar problems (or worse), so I'm sticking to the devil that I know for now
We got away with basically no big expenses for two entire summers, so this year is the first time we are really splashing on maintenance / upgrades.
Your selden ( excellent choice) should come with a halyard restrainer in the box and two self tapper screws to affix it . Do not use rivets . And remember to offset the restrainer about 1” and a fair lead below the entry box at the mast head. I like QCYC , I don’t think we have any reciprocals booked with you guys this yr. If you come to Bronte , all 27nm away , I have an open bar tab at the YC …. . All sailors look at other boats , we have been up and down the ladder , I’m sailing a C&C 29-2 right now , it’s a good two people/ one dog boat . I just bought a new Suzuki 6hp for my zodiac , I checked the bracket and it locks down in forward . Odd .
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Best part about the selden , it’s all in the box , the wankers at Harken charge extra for the stay wire and lower connection, it comes with the Selden. Mine took 1.5hrs and two beers to assemble. The metric confused me a little , but not a lot .
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I'll definitely get in touch once we are in sailing condition and planning trips - would be cool to come spend a weekend at Bronte and hang out!
Interesting your engine locks in forward - I guess different models / manufacturers do different things.
Spoke to the Rigging Shoppe and they also confirmed what you said re included restrainer - thanks for bringing it to my attention! Didn't realize Harken doesn't even provide wire or connector, wow...
They told to screw in the restrainer as opposed to rivet so I will have to find a Tap and Dye Set and appropriate machine screws. I assume maybe a cm long or so will do and not be too long.
Still a little worried about doing all the measurements as I had to chop the bottom of my old forestay off since I couldn't remove the Sta-Lock, but hopefully I can get it close enough...
Oh and I need to find a long enough tape measure as I don't think I have any that are 30 feet long
It's always something.
When you buy a 50ft tape , do not buy the cheap vinyl one . If you’re working on a hot day , they can be long by 1/2 -3/4 of an inch . That sucks when you cut stainless .
Machine screws to fit the restrainer should be in the box , they even have blue loctite already on them. They use to ship the appropriate tap in the carton as well so look for that also.
I’ve set my furler up with a dyneema soft shackle top and bottom so I can change headsails with no tools . I also use a soft shackle on the halyard so it won’t chafe the foil. 1st season my stainless shackle would get caught in the furler slot and stick a bit , now it’s all smooth .
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Machine screws to fit the restrainer should be in the box , they even have blue loctite already on them. They use to ship the appropriate tap in the carton as well so look for that also.
I’ve set my furler up with a dyneema soft shackle top and bottom so I can change headsails with no tools . I also use a soft shackle on the halyard so it won’t chafe the foil. 1st season my stainless shackle would get caught in the furler slot and stick a bit , now it’s all smooth .
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I'm confused, can't this be done without measuring? Attach at the hard end, pull tight and mark at the easy end? I've never been fancy enough to have roller furling.
My dad had a 100' cloth tape. It was feet out at 100'. Into the bin. Long steel tapes work but they are expensive and not used often.
I have a 100ft steel logging tape , it’s expensive but less expensive than being out by a foot on a barn foundation.
The selden furler has a wire forstay that goes through the hollow aluminum foil , you need to get the wire length right so the mast has the appropriate rake . You cut the wire to length using a spec table that is provided , you subtract for top fitting and allow for the drum . It’s easiest if you have a flat place to work , 35 40ft clear , and if concrete you want a bunch of towels to put down, don’t wanna scratch a new unit .
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The selden furler has a wire forstay that goes through the hollow aluminum foil , you need to get the wire length right so the mast has the appropriate rake . You cut the wire to length using a spec table that is provided , you subtract for top fitting and allow for the drum . It’s easiest if you have a flat place to work , 35 40ft clear , and if concrete you want a bunch of towels to put down, don’t wanna scratch a new unit .
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I just finished assembling a code sail furler , continuous line on the flat drum and an 80ft torsion rope that the sail furlers around , top down instead of bottom up . Sail and furler coil and go in the bag . Unit made by Karver in France . Worth about 6k and attaches to a 15k code 0 sail . Not my boat lol .
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Just installed the rigging yesterday! Measuring seemed to be almost too easy so hopefully I did it all right. Took a full day between assembling furler, prepping mast, and getting it up in the crane and on the boat. Weather was freezing so that really slowed things down. \
Only issue I ran into are tack horns on the bow just behind where the Forestay attaches - spoke to Rigging Shoppe and they said just to chop it since it's apparently an old school thing that I likely will never use. The new drum is a lot beefier so it bumps into the horns. Doubled up on toggles for now just to clear it, but the rig cannot be tensioned until I cut the horns off and remove the doubled toggle. Was going to go today, but I haven't had a day off in over a month between work work and boat work - getting some rest today and hopefully back to the boat in a week or so.
I think another full day of work and I can get the sails up to test if I measured everything right. Everything looks good, still, fingers crossed!
Tapping the mast for the restrainer was fine. Oddly enough the Furler came with Torx bits, restrainer, machine screws, and a drill bit. But NO tap???? Thankfully I have a friend who came with a bunch of taps to help out in that regard. All seems well
Only issue I ran into are tack horns on the bow just behind where the Forestay attaches - spoke to Rigging Shoppe and they said just to chop it since it's apparently an old school thing that I likely will never use. The new drum is a lot beefier so it bumps into the horns. Doubled up on toggles for now just to clear it, but the rig cannot be tensioned until I cut the horns off and remove the doubled toggle. Was going to go today, but I haven't had a day off in over a month between work work and boat work - getting some rest today and hopefully back to the boat in a week or so.
I think another full day of work and I can get the sails up to test if I measured everything right. Everything looks good, still, fingers crossed!
Tapping the mast for the restrainer was fine. Oddly enough the Furler came with Torx bits, restrainer, machine screws, and a drill bit. But NO tap???? Thankfully I have a friend who came with a bunch of taps to help out in that regard. All seems well
Nice , glad its working out well . Tack horns on the bow is a 70's thing , awkward , ugly and certainly useless now. If your headsail halyard has a snap shackle be sure to clip it 'split ring out' so you dont scratch up the pretty foil, and if its a clevius style use the smallest that fits so it stays out of the furler groove. getting rid of the double toogle is a good idea, the lower the drum can be to the deck the happier everyone is . I'm a big fan of "deck sweeper" #1 's , not getting that with the tack 2ft off the deck.
Good to have further confirmation that Tack Horns are useless - thank god! Just going to take a dremel to it on Sunday if I have time I think.
Currently I actually just tie a bowline on my halyards. Used to have a shackle on the main with one of those spring releases, and it came off once and skied the halyard. Boat is too small to climb the mast so someone had to go up in the mast crane - huge PITA so we just opted for a bowline.
Is there any reason I should consider changing halyards to a shackle end? Halyards basically never come off the sail during the year as we leave the Genoa furled and the Main down with a cover over the boom. Either way I'd need a knot on the halyard so figured just having a knot and no shackle just removes another point of failure, though I may be wrong on that front.
Nope you are not wrong , knots are free , don’t scratch the mast or foil and are pretty bullet proof ( if you can tie a knot) .
We change headsails sometimes twice or three times a week , sometimes mid race . Nobody is fooling around with knots . But that’s us . My halyards are mostly spectra synthetic so they don’t really tie well into a knot . And my hobby is splicing so lots of loops on my boats .
We used to send people up the mast crane , then I got involved in management of the yacht club , now I yell at people even thinking about it . My life is managing liability…..
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We change headsails sometimes twice or three times a week , sometimes mid race . Nobody is fooling around with knots . But that’s us . My halyards are mostly spectra synthetic so they don’t really tie well into a knot . And my hobby is splicing so lots of loops on my boats .
We used to send people up the mast crane , then I got involved in management of the yacht club , now I yell at people even thinking about it . My life is managing liability…..
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