New Rider Tips and advice | GTAMotorcycle.com

New Rider Tips and advice

buffone

Active member
Got my M2, got the bike plated (Start 401, purchased from a member here!) and did two 20 minute ride on residential streets near my house.

Any tips to get smoother on the throttle (particularly in first and second gear)?

Any tips to get smoother shifting gears? I feel like I'm either rolling off the throttle two quickly and engaging too much engine braking, or rolling off waaaay too slowly slowing the bike in a different way before upshifting.

Finally, how long before you guys started venturing onto arterial roads?
 
Any tips to get smoother on the throttle (particularly in first and second gear)?
What is the actual negative effect that you believe being smoother with the throttle will solve? Or is this a question about how to be linear and precise with your wrist? (answer: don't death grip the bars)


Any tips to get smoother shifting gears? I feel like I'm either rolling off the throttle two quickly and engaging too much engine braking, or rolling off waaaay too slowly slowing the bike in a different way before upshifting.
Practice. Sounds like you are still thinking about how to shift and are too distracted to think about when to shift. Can't do both within the time frame of a couple seconds. You'll know when you shifted properly because of the positive feedback from the motorcycle.

Finally, how long before you guys started venturing onto arterial roads?
Practice till starting off, shifting, stopping on a point are no longer a 'how do I?' but 'when do I?'. When do I start off? When the light is green and the way is clear. When do I come to a stop? When the light is red or an impassable obstacle is ahead. When do I have to change gears? When the engine tells me I need to.

If you have to think about how to operate the motorcycle to avoid the semi that ran the red after you've already identified that the semi ran the red, then you aren't ready. (hint: Next is Predicting that the semi will run the red)

Moral of the story. Practice.
 
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What is the actual negative effect that you believe being smoother with the throttle will solve? Or is this a question about how to be linear and precise with your wrist? (answer: don't death grip the bars)
I'm hoping to reduce how herky jerky I am in low gears, at low speed. I'm trying to open and close the throttle smoothly but it just feels like I'm going from wide open to off it completely (even though I'm trying to move it a millimetre at a time). I'm death gripping them to some extent, but I've experimented with lighter or alternate grips (for example:
). But given the width of my bars that feels awkward or impractical. other grips, or lighter grips make me feel like I don't have much control of the bike.

Practice. Sounds like you are still thinking about how to shift and are too distracted to think about when to shift. Can't do both within the time frame of a couple seconds. You'll know when you shifted properly because of the positive feedback from the motorcycle.
I am practicing. But I can't really tell if I'm practicing correctly. Here's what I'm doing when I shift up: 1. roll off the throttle. 2. pull in the clutch. 3. Shift. 4. roll on the throttle as I ease out the clutch. I'm trying to do this quickly. Should I be doing steps 1 and 2 simultaneously? In a different order? Should I roll off the throttle completely, or just a bit?

I appreciate your answer to the last question.
 
From what you have mentioned, I feel your shifts are taking slightly longer and that's scrubbing speed which means that when you actually get to the higher gear the bike is struggling. I maybe wrong. Upshifts should be quicker and an experienced rider can subconsciously do it without thinking about it. Once the bike moves off from a standstill, you can let go off the clutch lever completely before accelerating. So, number 4 would be 4 & 5 if the bike is at speed.

Also, don't be afraid to rev your bike a bit. You don't need to upshift as soon as you are past 3k rpm. Not saying you should redline it, but you can stay in the gear as the revs go a bit higher (depending on your motorcycle) before upshifting. If you're taking longer to upshift that should help too. Again, practice is the key.
 
. 4. roll on the throttle as I ease out the clutch. Should I be doing steps 1 and 2 simultaneously? In a different order? Should I roll off the throttle completely, or just a bit?

I appreciate your answer to the last question.

Don't roll on as you release the clutch, just release the clutch quickly, then roll on when the clutch is fully engaged. You only ride the clutch out with a bit of gas in first gear (past a walking speed, the clutch is out fully).

Also, if you're jerky on the gas at low speed, drag the back brake (parking lot speeds, slow speed maneuvers). You can also control the power to the rear wheel by slipping the clutch in or out.

Some bikes are jumpy on and off the throttle. Fuel cut, emissions controls, and injection mapping can make it difficult.

As Aens said, it takes practice.

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
 
Keep going around the block until you are bored and not thinking about shifting. There is also traffic, which you are mindful about and oh there goes that shift. If there is a large parking lot near you, go there and practice shifting and braking. Go counter clockwise and clockwise too as you go around. When it becomes boring again, venture out a bit further. The more time you spend doing the shifting and braking the less you will think about it. Learn how to start it quickly, when you stall it, so you don’t get nervous in traffic. After all these years of riding I manage to do it at least 2-3 times a season to my embarrassment.
Oh and practice left turns simulating a stop at a green light waiting for traffic to clear. Would be bad to stall the bike here.
Good luck.
 
Find a hill with no traffic, preferably in a parking lot, and practice hill starts, before you come to one in traffic.
 
Advice as a new rider -- I am one too... practice clutch work... It's probably WAYYYY understated in the M2 classes... Within a few weeks of riding my bike... good clutch work will help you in stop-go traffic... putting in 1st gear and go... inching yourself to make a left hand turn... inching foward in drivers who drags their brakes.... good clutch work will help in the long run.

As to your gear shifts... and remembering what I usually do... its a little different...

You have...
1. roll off the throttle.
2. pull in the clutch.
3. Shift.
4. roll on the throttle as I ease out the clutch

I usually do this.
1. Let the throttle go (the thing is spring loaded, once you let loose, the throttle is off)
2. Clutch in
3. Shift
4. Clutch out (fully out... as opposed to easing it out)
5. Throttle on

(But remember... I do this on upshifts only....)

I suspect you have jerky shifts because you are easing out the clutch after you shift... once the bike is in motion AND on an upshift.. there is really no need to "let the clutch out slowly" after gear shifts... the only time I actually ease clutch out is when I am downshifting... where I don't want to let the wheels lock up as I downshift gears...

which is similar what... @matt365 is saying...
 
... the only time I actually ease clutch out is when I am downshifting...

Once you get comfortable, try and "blip" the throttle on downshifts.

Clutch, click down a gear, shot of gas, release clutch quickly.

It all happens very quickly when you're good at it. Far smoother way to downshift, and doesn't upset the chassis, if you have to do it in a corner

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
 
Once you get comfortable, try and "blip" the throttle on downshifts.

Clutch, click down a gear, shot of gas, release clutch quickly.

It all happens very quickly when you're good at it. Far smoother way to downshift, and doesn't upset the chassis, if you have to do it in a corner

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
I guess similar to heel-toe/rev matching as in a car. :).
 
Once you get comfortable, try and "blip" the throttle on downshifts.

Clutch, click down a gear, shot of gas, release clutch quickly.

It all happens very quickly when you're good at it. Far smoother way to downshift, and doesn't upset the chassis, if you have to do it in a corner

Slipper clutches have turned this technique into a lost art.

Hard on the brakes, banging down from a 6th gear straightaway to a 2nd gear corner while trying not upset traction... when it's done right, it's sexaytime. ❤️‍🔥❤️‍🔥❤️‍🔥
 
Advice as a new rider -- I am one too... practice clutch work... It's probably WAYYYY understated in the M2 classes... Within a few weeks of riding my bike... good clutch work will help you in stop-go traffic... putting in 1st gear and go... inching yourself to make a left hand turn... inching foward in drivers who drags their brakes.... good clutch work will help in the long run.

As to your gear shifts... and remembering what I usually do... its a little different...

You have...
1. roll off the throttle.
2. pull in the clutch.
3. Shift.
4. roll on the throttle as I ease out the clutch

I usually do this.
1. Let the throttle go (the thing is spring loaded, once you let loose, the throttle is off)
2. Clutch in
3. Shift
4. Clutch out (fully out... as opposed to easing it out)
5. Throttle on

(But remember... I do this on upshifts only....)

I suspect you have jerky shifts because you are easing out the clutch after you shift... once the bike is in motion AND on an upshift.. there is really no need to "let the clutch out slowly" after gear shifts... the only time I actually ease clutch out is when I am downshifting... where I don't want to let the wheels lock up as I downshift gears...

which is similar what... @matt365 is saying...
Thanks so much for this answer. While riding around for a few hours trying this this and that, it became apparent that I was being too slow and deliberate with the shifting. I sped things way up, and started shifting as you suggested and the shifts are fast, smooth, and predictable.

Thanks!
 
Don't roll on as you release the clutch, just release the clutch quickly, then roll on when the clutch is fully engaged. You only ride the clutch out with a bit of gas in first gear (past a walking speed, the clutch is out fully).

Also, if you're jerky on the gas at low speed, drag the back brake (parking lot speeds, slow speed maneuvers). You can also control the power to the rear wheel by slipping the clutch in or out.

Some bikes are jumpy on and off the throttle. Fuel cut, emissions controls, and injection mapping can make it difficult.

As Aens said, it takes practice.

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
Thanks for the reply. Once I stopped riding the clutch in 2nd gear and above and just started releasing it quickly, everything improved. Your advice was much appreciated
 
Thanks so much for this answer. While riding around for a few hours trying this this and that, it became apparent that I was being too slow and deliberate with the shifting. I sped things way up, and started shifting as you suggested and the shifts are fast, smooth, and predictable.

Thanks!
Yessss!! and practice the clutch!!

I sometimes think... 0-10kph = clutch work... anything above 10kph = throttle work....

the clutch (and rear brakes) will be your friend for slow speed manuevuers... U-turn will be your next challenge...
 
Once you get comfortable, try and "blip" the throttle on downshifts.

Clutch, click down a gear, shot of gas, release clutch quickly.

It all happens very quickly when you're good at it. Far smoother way to downshift, and doesn't upset the chassis, if you have to do it in a corner

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
I've seen, like, a million YouTube videos about down shifting and blipping the throttle and I banked it away for when I became more experienced. Your explanation is so simple, that I tried it, over and over, on a long ride last night and it worked like a charm. Thanks!
 
For a new rider at least I'd suggest pulling the clutch in before rolling off the throttle.

Reasoning;

When you roll off the throttle you immediately begin to lose momentum. One of the factors of a smooth upshift is having enough momentum at the time. While you`re still figuring things out and getting muscle memory down this loss of momentum could be contributing to a more difficult upshift.

When you pull in the clutch, power is cut to the wheels but you coast instead of decelerating (engine breaking). So your momentum does not decrease substantially right away.

Eventually you'll become comfortable enough to do all the required movement seamlessly and more or less together.
 

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