Lithium Ion Battery | GTAMotorcycle.com

Lithium Ion Battery

inreb

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Are you using? Working out ok? Any horror stories? Any good deals out there? :cool:
 
I heard it's not that great in the cold
 
I have a Shorai one. It does not work in the cold plain and simple absolute zero crank. Would i do it again? Nope too much of a pain in the ***. It is light as hell and fits just like a regular battery though.

lfx14a4.jpg
 
I have a Shorai one. It does not work in the cold plain and simple absolute zero crank. Would i do it again? Nope too much of a pain in the ***. It is light as hell and fits just like a regular battery though.

lfx14a4.jpg

I have a shoari as well but the bigger one, 18 something in the model name. Works just fine in the cold to start my FZ1, but I do leave the key on so the headlight is on while im putting on my gear. Seems to work a bit better that way. Had mind for at least 3 years and just leave it in the bike during winter hooked up. Starts right up in the spring.
 
I haven't had much issue with mine. I have Shorai and use it in 750cc V-Twin. It's true that they don't like colder temps. But for proper toy bike not used for touring they are certainly very good.

In colder temps like sub 10C, I sometimes boost it for 10-15mins with a normal trickle charger (make sure it has no desulfate high voltage mode) to make sure it's topped off. Especially when I do a lot of short low speed riding.
 
The ones for bikes are part of the Lithium Ion family but they are Lithium Iron (technically Lithium Iron Phosphate) . The "iron" types do not need a special charger unlike what we typically refer to as Lithium Ion (like in cordless tools).

I have one and so far have nothing but good to say with one small exception... they do not have as much reserve, not an issue if the bike starts easy but if for whatever reason it is giving you trouble they will run out of juice slightly quicker (had water in the gas issues that left me pushing the bike home, MIGHT have got it started with a normal lead-acid...maybe).
 
I have a shoari as well but the bigger one, 18 something in the model name. Works just fine in the cold to start my FZ1, but I do leave the key on so the headlight is on while im putting on my gear. Seems to work a bit better that way. Had mind for at least 3 years and just leave it in the bike during winter hooked up. Starts right up in the spring.

The Earth X site mentions in the snowmobile section that it helps to warm the internal battery components by running current through to achieve a higher cold cranking amp. They say to crank for 10 seconds wait and do again and it will raise the internal battery temp. I guess having your lights on is doing the same thing.

I have the Earth X in my KTM and its been great. Lasts longer, cranks faster so far. They say they will go longer at spec voltage but will drop off abruptly.
 
the shorai, does get stronger as you crank, i stab at mine several short bursts in the cold and it fires up. and its a 7ah in a 1000cc
 
the shorai, does get stronger as you crank, i stab at mine several short bursts in the cold and it fires up. and its a 7ah in a 1000cc

The ballistic is like that too. Seems dead at first but warms with each crank then starts no prob
 
I had one in my race bike and end up putting the regular one back on - once they die once it is impossible to get them back to full power.

On a street bike I wouldn't waste my money on it
 
I had one in my race bike and end up putting the regular one back on - once they die once it is impossible to get them back to full power.

On a street bike I wouldn't waste my money on it

They are pricey but I think I can justify it as I have three bikes (can only ride one at a time amirite?) that call for the same battery capacity. Also I added about 10lbs. of frame bracing on one bike, I'd like to get that back.
 
They are pricey but I think I can justify it as I have three bikes (can only ride one at a time amirite?) that call for the same battery capacity. Also I added about 10lbs. of frame bracing on one bike, I'd like to get that back.
Is it a street bike? why do you need the weight reduction?
 
Is it a street bike? why do you need the weight reduction?

It's a street bike and I don't really need the weight reduction. Come to think of it, I don't even need the frame bracing. This is not going as planned.
 
Is it a street bike? why do you need the weight reduction?

Why not? It's cheaper than buying horsepower mods.

How did the unit in your race bike bit the dust? The only problem is older bikes with charging system not putting enough volts out. Other than that, you will not save weight in more effective way. Sure, on some heavy pig street bike 6 or so pounds won't matter, but on other bikes it will make a difference, especially on top heavy bikes with battery right under your seat.

I liked the result on my bke.
 
Why not? It's cheaper than buying horsepower mods.

How did the unit in your race bike bit the dust? The only problem is older bikes with charging system not putting enough volts out. Other than that, you will not save weight in more effective way. Sure, on some heavy pig street bike 6 or so pounds won't matter, but on other bikes it will make a difference, especially on top heavy bikes with battery right under your seat.

I liked the result on my bke.
After putting the bike on the trailer I pushed the kill switch and forgot to turn the ignition off, couple of hours later the battery was dead, charged it with the appropriate charger but never really worked well again
 
Is it a street bike? why do you need the weight reduction?

In all seriousness, the frame bracing doesn't allow use of the original battery box. A smaller, lighter battery will be mounted on a DIY inner plastic fender.
 

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