Honda Grom Insurance | GTAMotorcycle.com

Honda Grom Insurance

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Hi everyone,

New rider here, about to do the new rider course to obtain my m2. I'm planning to get a Grom as my first bike and move to something bigger as I get some experience under my belt. I'm wondering what other recent new riders paid for their first year on a small bike? The best quote I've gotten is $116/month through Riders Plus/ Echelon, full coverage, $500 deductible - it obviously comes down a few bucks if I play around with the deductible. Is that good, or have others done better? Also, I don't have much of a car insurance history in Canada as I just moved over from Aus last year and they don't consider that unfortunately.

Cheers!
 
Welcome, I have a Grom as a 2nd bike.

$116 seems okay, depending on your situation; location, age, driving record, etc.

Expect it to drop by about half after the first year.

Currently i pay $35/month for mine, i'm about to turn 41.

Also, while the Grom is a good bike..it's not a great only bike if you plan to ride with anyone else. While it's highway legal, you won't be passing anyone and it's not an overall comfortable experience.

That being said, if you plan to stay mostly solo and do your thing, you should have a blast!
 
Welcome, I have a Grom as a 2nd bike.

$116 seems okay, depending on your situation; location, age, driving record, etc.

Expect it to drop by about half after the first year.

Currently i pay $35/month for mine, i'm about to turn 41.

Also, while the Grom is a good bike..it's not a great only bike if you plan to ride with anyone else. While it's highway legal, you won't be passing anyone and it's not an overall comfortable experience.

That being said, if you plan to stay mostly solo and do your thing, you should have a blast!
Thanks for the info mate.
I'm in Niagara so I plan to stay off the highways completely and only duck on if I really need to. I figured I'd gain some skills on a smaller bike and the resale seems good enough that I won't take a big hit when I want to go bigger. I don't have any friends who ride so I'll be solo going into this season, hopefully I'll meet some people at my course and go from there. Cheers
 
Thanks for the info mate.
I'm in Niagara so I plan to stay off the highways completely and only duck on if I really need to. I figured I'd gain some skills on a smaller bike and the resale seems good enough that I won't take a big hit when I want to go bigger. I don't have any friends who ride so I'll be solo going into this season, hopefully I'll meet some people at my course and go from there. Cheers

Not trying to push you away from the Grom.. but do talk to the instructors and folks on here as to why to Grom or not to Grom.. I think its a fun 2nd bike.. but for a daily commuter.. I'd say get something bigger so at least you can get in and out of harms way... As @Evoex says.. the pick up for a small bike is limited.. and even if you are "ducking on to the highway".. there will be times where you need to speed up to stay in flow of traffic.. so not sure if the Grom will cut it..

as for insurance.. i pay $135 for a 400cc bike... I got my m2 last year... so I think its "somewhat" inline that you got quoted for $116? I went to Rates.ca to compare quotes when I first looked at bikes... may be a place to look and compare?

either way.. hope you passed and welcome!
 
Insurance. It's your first bike. It should be something inexpensive that you expect to drop at least once, therefore do you really need full coverage? I don't think I ever had fire, theft or collision coverage on any bike.
 
Insurance. It's your first bike. It should be something inexpensive that you expect to drop at least once, therefore do you really need full coverage? I don't think I ever had fire, theft or collision coverage on any bike.
Yeah, I'm not sure how to go about going for just a third party type insurance? I do want theft protection however since the bike is small and easier to pick-up and take. I'll have it outside and work and overnight on occasion so I want to have comfort knowing I'm covered should anyone decide to take it.
 
Yeah, I'm not sure how to go about going for just a third party type insurance? I do want theft protection however since the bike is small and easier to pick-up and take. I'll have it outside and work and overnight on occasion so I want to have comfort knowing I'm covered should anyone decide to take it.
Comprehensive covers theft. Collision is the expensive one that covers if you are at-fault in a crash. I would not be getting collision. If the crash is a not at fault crash, insurance will pay even without collision coverage.
 
Yeah, I'm not sure how to go about going for just a third party type insurance? I do want theft protection however since the bike is small and easier to pick-up and take. I'll have it outside and work and overnight on occasion so I want to have comfort knowing I'm covered should anyone decide to take it.
If you’re financing the bike will require full insurance until the loan is paid off.

You can get fire/theft and 1 way insurance otherwise.
 
If you’re financing the bike will require full insurance until the loan is paid off.

You can get fire/theft and 1 way insurance otherwise.
Eww. Good point. No way would I be financing my first bike. I would save up or buy a used one that I could pay cash for. Collision insurance for a new rider is expensive and if you make a claim, that probably kills your dreams of riding as future insurance will be crazy expensive. Buying a first bike with some scars lowers the total cost of ownership substantially as another scar barely affects to value so you can avoid many cosmetic repairs.
 
Eww. Good point. No way would I be financing my first bike. I would save up or buy a used one that I could pay cash for. Collision insurance for a new rider is expensive and if you make a claim, that probably kills your dreams of riding as future insurance will be crazy expensive. Buying a first bike with some scars lowers the total cost of ownership substantially as another scar barely affects to value so you can avoid many cosmetic repairs.
Ok, thanks guys - I wasn't sure how to go about this on comparison sites but I figured it out. It brings me down to 99/month if I take away collision insurance. I'm paying cash so the bike won't be financed.
 
Try a grom first. You may not like it.

As a second bike to mess around, they're fun. As an only bike? They're not...

We use them at the m1x motorcycle course. Try one there if you haven't done your course yet (most schools have a few on hand).

I hate them as a training tool. Too easy to ride. Really don't have to learn to shift (some redline 1st everywhere to get to course speed...) Hard to feel the "push" of push steering. Its like riding a toy. Imagine learning on that, and then jumping to a large cruiser, or a sportbike... good luck.

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
 
Try a grom first. You may not like it.

As a second bike to mess around, they're fun. As an only bike? They're not...

We use them at the m1x motorcycle course. Try one there if you haven't done your course yet (most schools have a few on hand).

I hate them as a training tool. Too easy to ride. Really don't have to learn to shift (some redline 1st everywhere to get to course speed...) Hard to feel the "push" of push steering. Its like riding a toy. Imagine learning on that, and then jumping to a large cruiser, or a sportbike... good luck.

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
Thanks for the advice mate, much appreciated. I'll wait until after the course to commit to the purchase of the Grom, I've got a fully refundable deposit down on one currently. I do like the idea of something easy to ride but understand it isn't necessary the best step in gaining experience for something larger. I've done quite a bit of research and feel my expectations are realistic but I'll take your advice and ease back on my eagerness to jump in. Cheers.
 
My suggestion, buy a dual sport bike.

Wr250r
Xt250
Crf300L
Klx300
Klx250

They're all practically indestructible, hold their value well. Corner good on street worthy dual sport tires. They all still suck on the highway, but the grom is worse in that respect.

Cheap insurance. High resale value. Ugly enough that most won't try and steal them.

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for the advice mate, much appreciated. I'll wait until after the course to commit to the purchase of the Grom, I've got a fully refundable deposit down on one currently. I do like the idea of something easy to ride but understand it isn't necessary the best step in gaining experience for something larger. I've done quite a bit of research and feel my expectations are realistic but I'll take your advice and ease back on my eagerness to jump in. Cheers.
A CBR125 has 50% more power, more conventional handling/ergonomics and insurance should be about the same.
 
Try a grom first. You may not like it.

As a second bike to mess around, they're fun. As an only bike? They're not...

We use them at the m1x motorcycle course. Try one there if you haven't done your course yet (most schools have a few on hand).

I hate them as a training tool. Too easy to ride. Really don't have to learn to shift (some redline 1st everywhere to get to course speed...) Hard to feel the "push" of push steering. Its like riding a toy. Imagine learning on that, and then jumping to a large cruiser, or a sportbike... good luck.

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

Interesting take, they are by far my favourite choice for the M2 course.

Low seat height, low torque and as you pointed out easy to ride.

The course is not designed to prepare them for bigger bikes or the street, it's how to learn the nuances of operating a motorcycle and to pass the exam. 2 days is not enough time to prepare someone for 'out there' and that's something I struggle internally with. If I ever opened a newspaper and saw a student of mine had passed I would feel extremely guilty....but we have limited time and i can't be filling their head with anything but course content..they aren't prepared to absorb it.
 
Interesting take, they are by far my favourite choice for the M2 course.

Low seat height, low torque and as you pointed out easy to ride.

The course is not designed to prepare them for bigger bikes or the street, it's how to learn the nuances of operating a motorcycle and to pass the exam. 2 days is not enough time to prepare someone for 'out there' and that's something I struggle internally with. If I ever opened a newspaper and saw a student of mine had passed I would feel extremely guilty....but we have limited time and i can't be filling their head with anything but course content..they aren't prepared to absorb it.
Yes, its to pass the test... but... if that were the sole purpose, why would we teach ready position, safety checks and shoulder checks? Those aren't on the test... but we teach it so they do it on the street.
Lines, cones, proper speed (25-35kph), don't fall over or crash... thats the test.
We train to a higher standard to prepare the student for the street.

The 13" wheels steer almost telepathically... you can't feel push steering. The bike will do course speed in first... why bother learning how to shift. If they do this, they won't have that knowledge in their bag of tricks when it comes to street riding.

Its often the timid ones that gravitate to the Grom (or ones who already know how to ride and just want something different to play on.)



Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
 
If I ever opened a newspaper and saw a student of mine had passed I would feel extremely guilty....

Been there.

Had that.

1 Death before a students scheduled course.

1 after (he was talking about speeding. Smoked a turning car at twice the limit)

And one paraplegic.

Not fun, but people are responsible for their own choices.

After the course, I always say:

Once you process your paperwork for your m2, just because you can ride on the highway with a passenger at midnight, doesn't mean you should... take it slow. Practice. Don't ride above your experience level. You're all now parking lot experts, at 30kph with cones and white lines...
Take it easy.

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
 
Yes, its to pass the test... but... if that were the sole purpose, why would we teach ready position, safety checks and shoulder checks? Those aren't on the test... but we teach it so they do it on the street.
Lines, cones, proper speed (25-35kph), don't fall over or crash... thats the test.
We train to a higher standard to prepare the student for the street.

The 13" wheels steer almost telepathically... you can't feel push steering. The bike will do course speed in first... why bother learning how to shift. If they do this, they won't have that knowledge in their bag of tricks when it comes to street riding.

Its often the timid ones that gravitate to the Grom (or ones who already know how to ride and just want something different to play on.)



Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
Correct, good instructors will throw in some elements which transfer to the street to build good habits. My point really is about, we can't spend nearly the time needed to keep them safe out there.

Students with horrible throttle control? They get the Grom. Students who almost tip over because they are vertically challenged? They get the Grom. It has it's merits. One needs to consider your demographic as well. These days i'm largely in Markham...you know...
 
Been there.

Had that.

1 Death before a students scheduled course.

1 after (he was talking about speeding. Smoked a turning car at twice the limit)

And one paraplegic.

Not fun, but people are responsible for their own choices.

After the course, I always say:

Once you process your paperwork for your m2, just because you can ride on the highway with a passenger at midnight, doesn't mean you should... take it slow. Practice. Don't ride above your experience level. You're all now parking lot experts, at 30kph with cones and white lines...
Take it easy.

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
Bingo and sorry to hear about that..terrible
 

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