Ok signals were installed but once on the road the headlight stopped working, and rear signals just stay solid only thing that's functionalIs flushmounts ugh..... Someone mentioned some kind of relay??? Anyways help!!!Jen
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Flushmount signals continued help!!!
- Thread starter KawasakiGal
- Start date
Krashasaki
Banned
I guess your dude wasn't as good as Krashasaki.
Not quite but I do think krashiki gave me a fake number! Jenn QUOTE=Krashasaki;1618006]I guess your dude wasn't as good as Krashasaki.[/QUOTE]
Your kit should have come with it's own resistor (one for each side) to provide correct load and help LEDs not burn out. The use of said resistor (usually they are covered in ceramic of some sort) makes your LED behave like a regular light bulb (assuming that's what was in there originally). Together with the resistor, the flushmounts should imitate the load of the blub and the relay will switch like normal. Without this you can see things like blinking way too fast or just staying on solid. Reversed polarity can be good or irrelevant depending on the LED lights, generally it will matter though.
I would also recommend at the very least a soldering iron. Those cap things with a thread inside are just an invitation for bad contacts and corrosion. When I did mine I used copious amounts of shrink tubing and some soldering. This, however, means that to do it right you need to be in a garage with electrical outlet handy.
The flushmounts are Proton LEDS....no resistor in box, and no mention of it in installation, we mounted exactly as told....found out although odd the headlight was just a coincidence burnout, so that is now fixed...so just down to the issue with the rear signals (which are stock non led) staying on solid when signal is turned on.
polo
Well-known member
What phucyall, and everyone said.
All this talk of relays, resistors and capacitors brings back memories from highschool. I once made a bell ring powered by a lemon.
Basically, what everyone is saying is to get someone who knows what they're doing to do it for you. Because, unless you know how to read a diagram like below, someone will be doing it for you. That diagram is actually from the 250R btw.
Good luck.
All this talk of relays, resistors and capacitors brings back memories from highschool. I once made a bell ring powered by a lemon.
Basically, what everyone is saying is to get someone who knows what they're doing to do it for you. Because, unless you know how to read a diagram like below, someone will be doing it for you. That diagram is actually from the 250R btw.
Good luck.
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If it worked before you hit the road and everything seemed fine, then see Ajaxguy's response.
If you need resistors you can have mine. I like the way mine flash fast.
+1 for heat shrink tubing if you're splicing cables.
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il check fuses.....I cant remember if rear lights were ever blinking or not...was paying attention to the front after install......
thanks Kuro!
thanks Kuro!
Did you use a digital flasher relay? A regular flasher won't work with LEDs, there is not enough amperage to operate the heat-triggered switches.
I think Retro's got the problem nailed. When I put LED turn signals on my bike, I had to find a flasher that would work. Normal flashers don't like LED's because they don't use enough electricity, so you either need these resisters in line, to make heat and draw more electricity, or a flasher that does not need that much current draw. I found my relay in a flea market, so I can't help you with a good source, sorry.
No relay was used at all, was hooked up as per instruction.....
I think I remember someone warning you that the flush-mounts would make you far less visible.
Who could have thought that google will have the answer </sarcasm>
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=80038
Just one of many many links that suggests that relay needs to be replaced. Odd because my flushmounts came with the special resistor and it made for a much easier install and no need to replace relays.
These seem to be the answer some people are suggesting
http://www.customled.com/products/load_equalizer/load_equalizer.htm
There is also this diode mod thing, bit I am not sure if this solves the issue of blink rate as well. It's been a while since I've taken my Electronics course and I am also too lazy to look up the stock wiring diagram for lights.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=79621
Edit: AHA! Found why yours is even more messed then usual. Thank Kawi for that. My Suzuki did not have this issue.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showpost.php?p=43426&postcount=76. Dunno if just resistors or just the diodes will fix it. Seems like you may need to combo it up. But then again you only have 2 LEDs right, the back are still stock?
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=80038
Just one of many many links that suggests that relay needs to be replaced. Odd because my flushmounts came with the special resistor and it made for a much easier install and no need to replace relays.
These seem to be the answer some people are suggesting
http://www.customled.com/products/load_equalizer/load_equalizer.htm
There is also this diode mod thing, bit I am not sure if this solves the issue of blink rate as well. It's been a while since I've taken my Electronics course and I am also too lazy to look up the stock wiring diagram for lights.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=79621
Edit: AHA! Found why yours is even more messed then usual. Thank Kawi for that. My Suzuki did not have this issue.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showpost.php?p=43426&postcount=76. Dunno if just resistors or just the diodes will fix it. Seems like you may need to combo it up. But then again you only have 2 LEDs right, the back are still stock?
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