Well I tried to remove it this past weekend with no success, didn't try an extractor yet but an impact screwdriver did f all. I found out some jackass previous owner had over torqued a couple of the valve cover bolts...one was already helicoiled and the other just wanted to spin. So between the exhaust bolt, needing to re-thread a valve cover bolt, and having to sync my carbs this spring, I think I'm going to ride down to my buddies shop and let him have at 'er....I've already stripped the bike once so a second time if needed shouldn't be too bad at all.
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Bolt extractors
- Thread starter esphoto
- Start date
frekeyguy
Well-known member
Post a picture - so we can see what you are working with.
If you want to bring the bike down - I can help you extract is - bring beer. I have a welder, extractors etc etc etc...
This is what I'm dealing with. frekeyguy, if my plans with Torren fall through or doesn't work I'll take you up on that. I still have to get the rest of the bike together and fired up...finally ran the harness and now just have to get the carbs in, hoses ran, and should be good to go aside from this exhaust hiccup.
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Xhumeka
Well-known member
Is that before you tried to remove with an impact driver? Looks like you got a nice clean slot dremelled into the bolt, usually the only time that "fails" is if one of those half-pie's get impacted right off the top of the bolt so you have nothing left to grab onto. What exactly were you using, an impact driver (like a screw driver that you hit on the top with a hammer) or an actual electric/pneumatic wrench like pictured below?
Impact "screw" driver (hit on top with hammer) was what I had tried but it wasn't able to get a good grip and kept slipping so I stopped before I hit anything I didn't want to. It's a tight spot to try and fit a dremel in there, that was the best slot I was able to get but I don't think it was good enough.
frekeyguy
Well-known member
Space looks tight, but its hard to tell. The exhaust needs to come off to weld a nut on top and remove it. In my opinion - that stud will need to be drilled out - but you might get lucky.
Put the bike on a trailer / truck
that impact screw driver wont' do anything.
I would not use an extractor, learned from experiance trying to remove an exhaust bolt that the head snapped off. I tried using a bolt extractor the the extractor broke of in the bolt. Ended up having to find a new head for my 77 restoration. I would trailer it up to freakguy and let him at it.
I have plans with Torren to try and weld a nut onto it this weekend, taking the exhaust back off is no problem since its barely in there.
If that doesn't work I'll definitely be taking frekeyguy up on the offer or taking to my buddies shop in Toronto...You think I would need to trailer it? I know there would be an exhaust leak but I was planning on just riding it down if I needed to go that route.
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If that doesn't work I'll definitely be taking frekeyguy up on the offer or taking to my buddies shop in Toronto...You think I would need to trailer it? I know there would be an exhaust leak but I was planning on just riding it down if I needed to go that route.
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Once upon a time I was a machinist (25 years ago). I usually found centre punch the stud (exact middle), carefully centre drill, pilot drill with 1/8" or 3/16" drill bit and then drill it out with about 1/8" less than the tap drill size. You can usually grab the remainder of the stud with nasty nose pliers and pull/wind out the rest. Re-tap/chase the threads with a new or sharp tap. Of course I had the convenience of a good drill press and a machine shop. Left hand drill bits are also handy (if you can find them) as sometimes they just kinda grab half way through and wind out the broken stud. Good luck. Oh I don't recommend welding on a bike if at all possible as a bad ground can cause major grief.
frekeyguy
Well-known member
unless the head comes off - there is no way you can get that motor on a drill press or a end mill. If the head comes off - its much easier to do extract / fix that stud.
I do this all the time, just did it the other day on some peg mounts for a 2000 CR250R that were so seized in place that the head stripped before they came loose
I manually drilled the center with a 1/16 drill bit then 1/8 and larger and larger until I was close to the same diameter of the hex, then I hammered the hex key deeper into the bolt. And they came right out easily.
The key for me is drilling out the middle all the way through the end of the bolt, when you take enough material away from the center of the bolt they come out way easier without snapping extractors...
Heat usually helps as there is usually really old locking compounds that have them glued in place
Takes some patience to find center and drill straight through but it gets the job done, this guy has a tough one, but with some good machinist quality drill bits and patience its possible to get it out. No titanium coated drill bits from Canadian Tire or Princess auto though
Id probably try tig welding on a nut first though personally
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interesting idea. i like it for exposed studs. Lining it up by eye for the flush stud would be almost impossible most of the time.
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