Are you using WIFI AC, what speeds are you getting? | GTAMotorcycle.com

Are you using WIFI AC, what speeds are you getting?

-D-

-D-

Banned
Been meaning to ask here.
I googled but not finding info.

I have Rogers (Ignite modem). The newer Rocket modem that does AC.
I have Intel 7260 (I think that's the model) wifi card in laptop. One of the best and most compatible.
It does AC speeds.
Windows 10.

laptop is 10 ft from router.

My router will max out at 300mb (wifi card in laptop shows that too). That's good as I am getting max speed.

I tried connecting to the Rogers modem using both 2 and 5 ghz bands.
I could not get bast 72mbts or 150.

Anyone getting 500+mbts speeds with your AC setup?
 
Set your Rogers modem to bridged mode. Buy a better AC router from Linksys / Asus etc. For the money TP-Link is good value.
 
madcat said:
Set your Rogers modem to bridged mode. Buy a better AC router from Linksys / Asus etc. For the money TP-Link is good value.
Click to expand...

x2. First, do not use the modems built in WiFi (you mention router, but don't mention a brand so not really an issue, but just saying for others) - get a good quality router (I'll second the TPLink, I use a Archer C2 and it's great bang for the buck) and put the modem into bridge mode. Ironically the modems built in WiFi sucks, and if you hookup a router to it without putting it into bridge mode the modem itself becomes a bottleneck.

The other thing to keep in mind is that not all AC connections are alike. Some routers, when running in mixed mode will slow down to the speed of the lowest speed connection....so for example, if there's an older device in your house that is only connecting to the router in G mode (vs N or AC) then everything on that same network will also be forced to run at G speeds.

Anyhow, a good multiband mixed mode router (again, like the TP Link Archer series) do not suffer from this.

I have the Rogers Ignite 100 meg service and regularly see 120 megs over WiFi, with bursts up to 150+. This is basically the maximum of the connection, so I can saturate it to 100% without problems. This is over WiFi and only over an N (not even AC) connection as my Macbook I did this particular test on doesn't support AC.

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My son has a TP Link AC adapter and can saturate the modem at 120-130 megs forever without issue.

Anyhow, I think the root of your problem is a crappy router (you didn't mention what make/model) and not having the modem in bridge mode.

First thing to try is getting the modem into bridge mode with your existing router and see if that helps. If it does, the modem was part of the problem. If it only helps a bit, your router is still suspect.

Secondly, login to the modem and lock the 5ghz band to only N or A mode vs any mixed mode options. Reboot it, connect with your laptop again, and see if that helps. If it does, then the mixed mode stepdown is your issue - in this case you can always limit your older hardware to the mixed 2.4ghz band and leave the 5ghz band locked at N or A as a workaround. This can and will prevent some older or incompatible hardware from connecting to the 5ghz band however. This, of course, all relies on the fact your router is configurable like this - some older/crappy routers may not be, in which case, consider upgrading.
 
Most of this talk is so far over my head lol. I'm having issues with my WiFi speed and my non technical self is starting to assume it's the dlink 760 router I should start with. As Inreb would say, Amirite?

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Double post.


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Without a little more information and basic diagnostics it's hard to say for sure, however it's been my experience almost universally that D-Link hardware is crap, so it would be automatically suspect to me, but not necessarily at fault.

You can do some of the things I suggested above however, specifically with regards to locking out the B and G bands to see if that helps.
 
Ok, let's rule out my router. Pretend I do not have one.
I want to connect directly to the Rogers modem and use that wifi.
I did try that and set it to ac only (do not recall if I set it to bridged mode).

The question is, have any of you get faster speeds using just the Rogers modem???
thx
 
Probably a Hitron combined modem/router.

To connect directly to the modem, you need it in bridge mode as above, which Rogers support can do remotely, and a proper router,
that you then connect to with a Cat 5e or 6 or something cable, as people have said above.
 
The built in routers in most cable and DSL modems are notoriously lousy...which is kind of ironic since probably 90% of broadband customers use them out of simplicity, or simply not knowing that they can simply turn the internal WiFi off completely and use a vastly superior external router. Yes, it does add a layer of extra setup and cost, but the difference is almost always much better speed and much better range.

I'd say probably 75% of broadband customers really have no idea how to even test their speed after the fact so despite maybe paying for a 100mbit connection they really have no idea the built in modem wifi is only serving them 50% of that.

The Rogers CGN3 is no exception to this rule - the modem is good, the built in WiFi is a notorious piece of crap - simply go over to DLSreports.com and you can read all about the "my Rogers internet wifi is slow even though I have a 100mbit plan, why?!" stories. The CAT5 connections will get you full speed, but it's ultra rare to ever read any stories of the built in WiFi being able to saturate the connection - when I first setup mine I was struggling to get 30mbit through a connection capable of 130mbit.

Anyhow...when you limited it to AC mode only did it improve your speeds?

If you put it into bridge mode you should no longer have any WiFi from it whatsoever...as bridge mode is designed to basically turn it back into only a modem vs a modem/router combination. At that point you *need* an external router.
 
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PrivatePilot said:
The built in routers in most cable and DSL modems are notoriously lousy...which is kind of ironic since probably 90% of broadband customers use them out of simplicity, or simply not knowing that they can simply turn the internal WiFi off completely and use a vastly superior external router. Yes, it does add a layer of extra setup and cost, but the difference is almost always much better speed and much better range.

I'd say probably 75% of broadband customers really have no idea how to even test their speed after the fact so despite maybe paying for a 100mbit connection they really have no idea the built in modem wifi is only serving them 50% of that.

The Rogers CGN3 is no exception to this rule - the modem is good, the built in WiFi is a notorious piece of crap - simply go over to DLSreports.com and you can read all about the "my Rogers internet wifi is slow even though I have a 100mbit plan, why?!" stories. The CAT5 connections will get you full speed, but it's ultra rare to ever read any stories of the built in WiFi being able to saturate the connection - when I first setup mine I was struggling to get 30mbit through a connection capable of 130mbit.

Anyhow...when you limited it to AC mode only did it improve your speeds?

If you put it into bridge mode you should no longer have any WiFi from it whatsoever...as bridge mode is designed to basically turn it back into only a modem vs a modem/router combination. At that point you *need* an external router.
Click to expand...

Which model TPLink would you suggest?

Do they have Tomato for TPLink?
I think TPLink does DDWRT from factory????

lmk I see some on sale at Canada Computers

this
TP-LINK Archer C2600 Wireless Dual Band Gigabit Router
Item Code: NTTP001438

and this

TP-LINK AC1900 Touch P5 Touch Screen Wi-Fi Gigabit Router
Item Code: NTTP001768


Asus on sale also
 
Both Tomato and DDWRT do not work with most TPLink routers at this point, at least last I checked.

That said, I'm a pretty tech savvy guy and found the included firmware does 99% of what I needed/wanted it to..and it's solid, often going for months at a time between reboots without any issues. So I wouldn't necessarily consider that a negative.

I bought my Archer C6 from Canada Computers when it was on sale. 3 year warranty as well which was a bonus - heck, mine is still under warranty now, but it's outlived my last couple of Cisco routers already.

I'm not overly familiar with either of those models, but if they're on the same level as the C6 I use, I'd consider the solid choices. I've been really impressed by the entire lineup of TPLink hardware to date.
 
If the highest link speed you get is 300mbps, it sounds like you don't have channel bonding turned on. If you see something that says anything like channel width or 20mhz/40mhz/80mhz, turn it up. Try that first.
 
TwistedKestrel said:
If the highest link speed you get is 300mbps,
Click to expand...

Many lower end (and even some middle range) WiFi routers advertise crazy theoretical rates that in reality one can never have any hope in hell of achieving. Just saying.

And again, in theory, 300mbit of advertised throughput should be 3x what's required to saturate a 100mbit internet connection, therefore demonstrating that inability to even achieve that for many routers, even when configured perfectly and actually even showing that you're supposedly connected at the routers maximum capacity. Reality is the software overhead and laggy/lazy/lousy hardware bottleneck things in the end and even that actual 300mbit WiFi connection might struggle to get 50-75 mbit through it.
 
Link speed is not the same as throughput and I didn't claim it to be. It still could be indicating higher for an 802.11ac connection.

Top tip: never actually use channel bonding on a 2.4gHz connection, unless you live on the moon
 
I have an Asus AC66U router running Merlin (no reason, just to be cool, the OEM firmware works fine), connected to a Rogers Hitron CGN3. No clue what the throughput is using the modem wifi as I've always used the router. The tests below are with my 2013 Macbook Pro using the internal AC chip.

Did a few quick tests right now. Doing a speedtest comes back as 120mbps, if I run speedtest from my ethernet connected server it comes back as 200mbps. Rated internet speed is 250, most of the time I get it, sometimes I don't.

Transferring a large file from the server to my Macbook shows a pretty consistent 45-50MBps or 400mbps. Not sure if AC is the bottleneck there or the USB3 hard drive attached to my server.
 
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regder said:
I have an Asus AC66U router running Merlin (no reason, just to be cool, the OEM firmware works fine), connected to a Rogers Hitron CGN3. No clue what the throughput is using the modem wifi as I've always used the router. The tests below are with my 2013 Macbook Pro using the internal AC chip.

Did a few quick tests right now. Doing a speedtest comes back as 120mbps, if I run speedtest from my ethernet connected server it comes back as 200mbps. Rated internet speed is 250, most of the time I get it, sometimes I don't.

Transferring a large file from the server to my Macbook shows a pretty consistent 45-50MBps or 400mbps. Not sure if AC is the bottleneck there or the USBC hard drive attached to my server.
Click to expand...

With my current N setup I am doing 300m...I think you should be much higher, at least 600+
 
-D- said:
With my current N setup I am doing 300m...I think you should be much higher, at least 600+
Click to expand...

Hmmmm, never really looked into it. Speed has never been an issue.
 
regder said:
Hmmmm, never really looked into it. Speed has never been an issue.
Click to expand...

you have equipment and paying for a service that gives you a lot more speed
similar to owning a super sport and never getting past 4th gear, lol

I stumbled upon something years ago and it was as simple as a driver update to go from 72mbs to 300mbs.
Got the driver from Intel.
 
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