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M exit test

Need some advice on how to do an emergency stop for the m exit test

Emergency stop as in pull over to the side of the road? Or as in someone jumped in front of you and you need to stop?

If its the former, its just pulling over and turning on your hazards if you have any.

If you need to stop in a hurry, do a quick look behind you to make sure you aren't going to get rear ended, squeeze the brakes hard enough that you stop fast, but not hard enough to lock the wheels. Once stopped, do another check behind you.
 
Came home a little while ago from the riding portion, it ended up going well. They had some XT 225 (Carbed) & 250 (FI) pulled for us to use although they didn't have enough pulled out so they ended up bringing out a TT-R 125L for someone. The 1st half was being pushed around to learn balance, braking & turning then after a break it was time to fire them up! they showed us how to start them for both the carbs & injected bikes & got us to try starting them, up to this point I was on a 2007 XT 225 (during one of my breaks waiting for others to finish the exercise I sized up the bike & saw a sticker on the front of the frame that had 1/07 on it, i'm guessing it was the manufacture date, January 2007 so i'd say 2007 model (Final model year for the XT 225)) but when we went to try to start it up I was asked by a instructor if I could switch bikes with someone who was short & I said sure so I moved up to a XT 250 (06/12 so June 2012 manufacture date, Late 2012 or Early 2013 Model (Edit: After looking at Wikipedia i'd say 2013 as that's when the USA XT 250 got a FI engine instead of carbs)) for the powered portion that was the rest of the night. After the engine starting portion we had to walk back and forth along a parking spot line using the clutch with the engine started & when we felt we were ready to shift into 1st & move forward to get used to moving under power & getting feet off the ground after starting under power along with finding the friction point of the clutch. After that it was the same as the pushing to get going & learning the brakes except it was under the power of the engine. Never fell/dropped the bike & Didn't hit anything so it ended up going ok, only problems I had was finding neutral (Half a shift up from 1st between 1st & 2nd, I was doing full shifts so I would go from 1st to 2nd instead of 1st to neutral) & maintaining/balancing power & clutch so it wouldn't stall. I don't know how many times I stalled the bike, was my 1st time driving/riding a fully manual transmission. At the end of it though I was getting the hang of it, the last 5-10 minutes was single file follow the leader in 1st gear & during that time I only stalled it once getting going after having to stop for someone that stalled ahead of me. All in all It was fun & looking forward to riding again, was a good time.
Edit 2: Timing can be a bit cruel at times, This is the helmet I ended up picking up today (Would have gotten plain black but the only one I saw on the shelf was small, for the one I got they had a small & medium on the shelf, I tried the medium on & it fit ok so I got it): http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/v...er-helmet-butterfly-graphic-0272280p.html#srp
Payed full price of $59.99 ($67.79 after Tax), just checked & now it's on sale along with all the other helmets in stock for 20% off.
 
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Go back with your receipt and they will refund the difference.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Good deal that you actually got to ride them under power and not just being pushed around.

So do you think you'll follow through with the whole process then? M1 -> M2 -> M?
 
Good deal that you actually got to ride them under power and not just being pushed around.

So do you think you'll follow through with the whole process then? M1 -> M2 -> M?
Considering how much fun I had going around the lot even with all the stalling I think I will at some point, i'll likely be getting a automatic to start with though (a scooter, something like a 1985 Elite 150, 2006 Vino 125, 2010 SH150i, ETC) and likely take a course at some point to learn/practice more for driving/riding a manual (or find a dirt cheap dirt bike to learn on, even if it's chinese crap).
 
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Considering how much fun I had going around the lot even with all the stalling I think I will at some point, i'll likely be getting a automatic to start with though (a scooter, something like a 1985 Elite 150, 2006 Vino 125, 2010 SH150i, ETC) and likely take a course at some point to learn/practice more for driving/riding a manual (or find a dirt cheap dirt bike to learn on, even if it's chinese crap).

If you have a place to ride one a dirt bike is a great way to learn the ropes. It'll also teach muscle memory, help with conditioning muscles commonly used while motorcycling (you might be surprised by what aches after a few hours on a dirt bike...), develop balance and so on. All in a non-threatening, non-judgmental environment. You might even look into spending some time with, say, Trail Tours in Peterborough (I'm not aware of any such facility in our - greater KW area -- neck of the woods); effectively rent a dirt bike, get some lessons for a day and see what you think of that.
 
From memory, it's something like:

- head-bob check
- mirror check
- right turn signal
- locate a safe place to stop; don't stop in front of fire hydrants or someone's driveway
- come to a smooth, safe stop; head-bob, mirror check
- if your bike has hazard lights, turn them on
- side-stand down, dismount bike and lean it on the side stand. Make sure the following examiner sees this complete (turn and face them for a second.); there was no need to shut the bike off as I recall; the handbook doesn't mention getting off the bike but I did...
- get back on. cancel hazards, turn on left-turn indicator
- head bob, mirror check
- when safe to do so, re-join the flow of traffic; turn off indicator

If you do all that you should be good I'd think.


I might have seen somebody say something about setting your helmet on the shoulder, too
 
Make sure that when you're checking for head bobs, you check your blindspot as well.
 
Make sure that when you're checking for head bobs, you check your blindspot as well.

Curious how do you have a blindspot on a bike? There is no posts etc like a car to block your vision.


Sent from the moon!
 
Curious how do you have a blindspot on a bike? There is no posts etc like a car to block your vision.


Sent from the moon!

Beside you and slightly behind, and right behind you.

Sometimes also known as a bicycle check, but cars and motorcycles could get in there if you're not checking, as well.

For the most part you're checking that someone isn't trying to go inside you.

motorcycle-blind-spot1-262x266.jpg
 
I might have seen somebody say something about setting your helmet on the shoulder, too

Unless the examiner stipulates that -- i.e. make like you're a motorcyclist in need of help -- I'd leave the helmet on.
 
Unless the examiner stipulates that -- i.e. make like you're a motorcyclist in need of help -- I'd leave the helmet on.

"make like you're a motorcyclist in need of help" -- as opposed to the kind of emergency stop where you are not in need of help? am I being picky and pedantic?
 
"make like you're a motorcyclist in need of help" -- as opposed to the kind of emergency stop where you are not in need of help? am I being picky and pedantic?

I see the stop as being something like "Do I have a flat or something stuck in my tire?". Pulling over and checking something like this doesn't require one to remove his helmet and place it at the curb as a signal to other riders. Well, unless you find a rail spike in your tire or something :)

If such a stop is because you really do have something in your tire or your chain departed and you really are stuck, the helmet off makes more sense, if for no other reason than to make the call to CAA easier. But during the road test, no.

I figure it's like answering questions in court: don't make assumptions and don't answer what wasn't asked. If the text of the guidebook says check, signal, stop, get off, get back on, signal, check, leave then just do that. Don't try to read more into the test than is there.

The online guide calls it a "roadside stop" and says, when stopped:

"The stop

This driving task includes the actions you take after stopping. Remember to do the following:

Signal
If your motorcycle or moped has four-way flashers, turn off your signal and turn on the four-way flashers.


Park





Depending on the parking surface, position your motorcycle or moped so it will be stable when the kick stand is down. Shift into neutral, or turn off the engine. Put the kick stand down."

That's it.
 
My wife and I are almost up for the 18 months to get our Full M. We had our M2 safety course at Centennial College (Ashtonbee campus at Warden/Eglinton), we have learnt a lot there but a bit far from our home (Markham). And we found that Learning Curves has the M2 Exit course at their Markham location. The cost for the two schools are very compatible, $435 and $395.5 for Centennial and LC respectively.

Course time is longer at Centennial (riding session on full day Saturday and test on Sunday) than LC (only 3-4 hours in the morning on the day of course). But LC offer a free re-test if required.

Anyone here have any experience with the two schools for their M2 Exit course to share? It sounds like the Centennial is a better course for their longer riding session.

BTW, both my wife and myself own our own bikes (CBR300 and CBR500) and we have rode at least 2000km.
 
You can do it through a school/course. Conestoga College has an M2 Exit program. It's pretty good because it starts off with M1-exit basics (you re-do the M1X test to prove basic proficiency), follow up with parking lot exercises mimicking some of the road-course stuff (esp useful for guys that may have picked up some "bad" habits after up to 5 years of M2 riding), go out for a group ride with the instructor (with radios; they'll talk to individuals on different channels to give them tips during the ride...) before actually doing the road test (just you leading an examiner in a car following and giving instructions over the radio.)

It was worth every penny to me.

x 2
 
My wife and I are almost up for the 18 months to get our Full M. We had our M2 safety course at Centennial College (Ashtonbee campus at Warden/Eglinton), we have learnt a lot there but a bit far from our home (Markham). And we found that Learning Curves has the M2 Exit course at their Markham location. The cost for the two schools are very compatible, $435 and $395.5 for Centennial and LC respectively.

Course time is longer at Centennial (riding session on full day Saturday and test on Sunday) than LC (only 3-4 hours in the morning on the day of course). But LC offer a free re-test if required.

Anyone here have any experience with the two schools for their M2 Exit course to share? It sounds like the Centennial is a better course for their longer riding session.

BTW, both my wife and myself own our own bikes (CBR300 and CBR500) and we have rode at least 2000km.

Just did M exit test with LC over the weekend at Hamilton.
I think the practice session that you get with them in the morning is more than enough to fix some of the bad habits you have and pass the test.
They carry out the course in a group of 5 students, the instructor will give you a pre-determined route and you will ride as a group. The instructor will follow from the behind and look at your riding skills. You do this total of 5 times by switching out the lead person.
Also another advantage of doing the test right after the practice session is that your memory is that much fresher.
 
Yep it's GINT0324. I've never ridden on a motorcycle or even a dirt bike before, so I'm not sure how i'd handle myself on a bike, my Ontario Works worker was nice enough to give me the $130 to sign up for it. If it goes well & I decide to go for my Licence then she'll give me $80 for the M1 Package (the $500 for the M1X course would be to much for them unless I already have a job lined up & need it for transportation to & from work, so if I take the M1X course it'd need to come out of my own pocket). I live in a rural town, nearest city bus stop is about a 1 and a halfish hour walk (according to google maps, it's 1 hour 34 minutes, 7.9km), For the cost of a decent-good ebike i'm sure I could find a decent Scooter or Cruiser in the 125-250cc range (Maybe Max of 500cc) that would be faster & have a better Range, just need to Register, Safety & Insure it & Pay insurance every month + a Tank of Gas might only cost roughly $12 assuming a 9L tank & would last a week, maybe 2 or more compared to a ebike that might need to be recharged after every round trip(if it makes it on the charge)
as for gear, it's as you mentioned:

Besides a helmet, gloves would be mandatory as we can't touch the bikes with our bare hands (I have some work gloves that should be ok)
For jacket, I have a old work king jacket that i'm hoping would be decent enough
For pants, I have some jeans (with no holes, so I won't need their duct tape to cover the holes)
As for Boots, I have some green rubber boots that Might be ok? if not then I have 1 or 2 pairs or steel toes, hopefully one of them would cover my ankles otherwise if the green rubbers or steel toes are not enough then I need some boots also.
I currently have about $170 to go towards stuff, I was hoping to get my fishing licence this month that should be $30-35 so that would leave me with $135-140 for a helmet & whatever else I'd need. Checking Canadian Tire they have 1 helmet (3/4 w/visor) at the Elmira location for $100 ($113 after Tax) where I could get my fishing licence also that would leave me with roughly $23-27 for whatever else I need, another option is the Waterloo location on Weber street where I could get a 1/2 helmet for $60-70 (about $68-79 after tax, maybe call & get it some transferred to the Elmira location to try on there?), or I could check out Zdeno Cycle on Victoria street & go to Natural Sports for my fishing licence.


Royal Distributing is selling a Bell full face for $99 on clearance (vortex i think?) THat I would buy over anything at Canadian tire. Check Kijiji for gloves. You can score some good ones for cheap i think. Steel toes will work but make shifting awkward. Rubber boots might not pass muster. Just bring them both and ask.
 

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