Corrosion protection comparison test | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Corrosion protection comparison test

Re: What S100 had to say

That last part is standard lawyer speak. It also, unfortunately, reflects very poorly on the company with the implied threats of civil legal action.
You can bet that they wouldn't have included a similar 'friendly warning' had your review been positive towards their product, and negatice towards other products.
While thier comments about rigorous scientific processes are true in a technical sense (I'm an engineer and do a lot of substantiation testing on aircraft, with much higher standards than required for any motor vehicle), nothing about what you did was so uncontrolled as to indicate that a controlled test would make a siginificant difference.
There are a few specific instances that might generate different results (like dissimilar metal testing Aluminum/Steel would be a good example), the tests you did are valid enough.
I will see if I can find a local distributor for the ACF-50 in this part of the country. I never really had to worry about that when I lived in Arozona. :p
Cheers.

Thank you for your support and vote of confidence. That is what would be called "peer review" if we were both scientists in the same field :). Although I never intended it to be a full blown scientific experiment I did implement the basic principles I know of and certainly wasn't prejudicial against any product tested. After all, my results are falsifiable.

As for the lawyer talk, I did not find it specially threatening, but I will remove unnecessary remarks from my previous posts and try not to offend their sensibilities in the future. That does not mean I won't tell it as it is. I just don't need to add qualifications - the test speaks for itself.

I'm probably covered for the whole season with my stash of ACF-50 (Thanks a bunch Vahid!), but it might be a good idea to start a thread for a group buy. Four people per case is three cans per person at $15 or so a can, and the price is comparable to other products in the category.

Cheers,
Vlad
 
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Thanks Vlad for the info.

I have been using Nano Polish purchased from Crappy Tire. It seems to work well for me..

Have you heard anything about this product?
 
Thanks Vlad for the info.

I have been using Nano Polish purchased from Crappy Tire. It seems to work well for me..

Have you heard anything about this product?

Nano Polish sounds serious enough :), but I haven't had a pleasure. I think that polish is not really good for corrosion protection, let alone lubrication, because it cannot get into every nook and cranny that needs to be protected. Therefore it can (and probably will) significantly improve resistance to corrosion only on parts that are treated.

Personally I have pretty much given up polishing at all. Too much work and my Bandit doesn't look/run/last any better polished :). I do spray it all with 50% ArmorAll after almost every wash. I find it prevents bugs and dust from sticking and protects rubber/vinyl parts very well. Just don't spray it on your tires (and seat for some people).

There have used many polishing solutions over the years as my previous bikes were too ugly when dirty (just check zephyr.xxc.cc and imagine it covered in dust, mud, etc.). They rere also ridden less and looked at more often :). Now I can barely force myself to wash the bike twice a year or so - takes too much from my riding time :(.

Anyway, one of the best polishing producs I used is S100 carnauba wax (give credit when credit's due). It's easy to apply and buff off and really gives it a good shine. My experience with polishes is by no means extensive, so there's most probably an even better product out there. For aluminum (check the Zephyr again) I used Boms Away (http://bikecleaner.com/). It needs some elbow grease to, though.
 
Re: What S100 had to say

Thanks for the work Vlad, very informative.

local distributor courtesy of Rainman

http://www.corrosionauthority.com/

and welcome. I also saw your Intro post../J
I guess I have to go to their store to buy it? They don't even have the address on the website ;)

Will they even sell a small can?

Is the ACF50 a spray, or what? Can I apply it without needing a special tool?
 
Re: What S100 had to say

I guess I have to go to their store to buy it? They don't even have the address on the website ;)

You have to buy it in cases of 12 cans. I don't think there's a retail store in Canada that sells it, and even in US it's only in specialized marine/aircraft stores. The price is about $15 per can, including taxes.

The only Canadian distributor is (AFAIK) The Corrosion Authority. Here is the order page:

http://www.corrosionauthority.com/Acf-50 Order Page.html

Here are some online retailers I found, have no experience with any of them though:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acf50.php
http://www.skygeek.com/10013.html

It's a paradox that ACF-50 was first developed in Canada and it's production eventually migrated to US along with engineers that made it.

Is the ACF50 a spray, or what? Can I apply it without needing a special tool?

It comes in several different packages, but it's the same chemical in all of them. Aerosol can has a straw just like WD40. It's considerably thicker than WD40 though, and appears to expand a little after it's sprayed so it takes some practice to apply and a rug to clean the over-spray. No special tools needed.
 
Vlad, what bike parts do you use it on?

I spray it on pretty much everything. I just avoid engine parts that will be directly heated (exhaust, head, etc.), tires, brakes and clear plastic (windshield, visor...). It shouldn't do any harm there either, but I don't fancy the smell while it burn's off and there is a small chance it may fog clear plastic.

ACF-50 is fine for electrical contacts as well, I've read about people spraying it on some very sensitive equipment (like airplane dashboards, radio controls, swithhes, etc.) without any adverse effects.

As a basic rule of thumb you can use it on anything you would use WD40 on and then some.
 
Check out http://www.boeshield.com/ it is by far the best anti corrision spray I have ever used. It is an industrial product that was developed by Boeing. Its safe to use on all electrical contacts.

Interesting, I may give that sample drip bottle a try, thanks for the pointer.
 
I just phoned Boeshield and ordered some T-9.

Got great service from guy who answered, Tony.
 
Hm, it looks like another test is in order... :cool:
 
Following is email trail with Boeshield. ...../J

On 11/24/08, Boeshield Canada Sales <sales@boeshieldcanada.com> wrote:

John,

Thank you for the pointer to the forum.

Someone on the forum with the ID "twinn" said the following:
"Check out http://www.boeshield.com/ it is by far the best anti corrosion
spray I have ever used. It is an industrial product that was developed by
Boeing. Its safe to use on all electrical contacts."

I would like to qualify the use on "all electrical contacts". Boeshield
T-9 has a very high dielectric (it is a great electrical insulator) which
can even exceed that of the wire covering. This can be a problem on
contacts such as relays and contactors if the T-9 gets right onto the
contacts.

In the case of plugs and sockets (note: not A/C wall sockets) it is usually
an advantage. As an example, the contacts in a plug and socket used for
connecting trailer lights is usually of the wiping type. In that instance
Boeshield T-9 protects against corrosion and bad connections. The wiping
action of the contacts as the plug is inserted make a clean connection.

Since Boeshield T-9 is an insulator and a moisture displacer it can be used
on most wiring and circuit boards to eliminate corrosion and arcing. It
also has kick-butt salt corrosion resistance.

Regardless of how Boeshield T-9 is being used (corrosion protection and/or
lubrication) an important consideration is the need to allow sufficient set
time for the solvent portion to evaporate. The rate of evaporation depends
primarily on ambient temperature and amount of air circulation. Set time
can take from hours to days.

For motorcycle chains we advise "apply tonight, ride tomorrow". One can
apply and ride but you lose a lot do to the initial thinness of the product,
and it will collect dust like wet paint. Once it sets up it adheres really
well to the chain and tends to run very clean (which adds significantly to
the life of chains and cogs). There is no build-up upon re-application.
Though a water wash will not remove T-9, a good degreaser will take it off
(though I don't know why one would want to remove it).

We anticipate most riders will get about 500Km on a single application in
clean weather riding, cut that in half in wet weather riding because grit,
which sticks to the wet chain, will gradually scrape off the Boeshield T-9
(true for any lube).

Boeshield T-9 is wonderful on control cables. Also try it in locks, but
don't put it in a lock under freezing conditions because the liquid paraffin
lube in T-9 will harden like a brick if it is cold enough. However, once it
works-in (usually in a day) there is no problem and the locks become very
weather resistant.

Cheers,

Tony
....

John wrote:

Thanks Tony:

[1] About use on motorcycle chains, is T-9 'O-ring safe"?

...........

Tony wrote:

John,

I cannot give you an absolute answer regarding 'O' rings without actually testing a particular item. Since we do not have an actual testing facility we always ask the end user to test using our products on a sample before proceeding with large scale use.

Having said that, our experience has been very positive and we have not had any complaints regarding Boeshield T-9 affecting most plastics or rubbers. This is understandable when one considers that the original use for Boeshield T-9 is for aircraft. In that instance the product is applied by fogging into the airframe. All the hydraulics, wiring, etc. are still in place, though I understand there are some new rules regarding use where electrical contacts may be coated and may prevent proper contact.

Yes, you may copy the info I sent you to the forum.

Best regards,

Tony
Sales and Technical Support
Boeshield Canada
10 Canvarco Road, Unit 65A
Toronto, ON M4G 1L3

PHN: (416)696-9222
Toll Free: (800)538-5158 (Canada only)
www.boeshieldcanada.com
 
Following is email trail with Boeshield. ...../J

On 11/24/08, Boeshield Canada Sales <sales@boeshieldcanada.com> wrote:

Very informative, thanks. I like the fact that they sell retail in Toronto, so I'll pay Lee Valley Tools a visit when I get a chance. It will be a nice lunch time walk from where I work.
 
I just noticed some rust on the back of my pipes, and am a bit freaked out. I have to get one of these.

I also have to get some Mother's Chrome Polish, but I guess that doesn't do anything for rust. I'm thinking of using that on the chrome and T9 on the insides, or should I use T9 on everything?

I read on some places that this stuff stays sticky. Vlad - did your test piece of metal dry out completely?

Thanks in advance.

p.s. from http://www.theruststore.com/Boeshield-FAQs-W53C2.aspx (this sounds much less appealing than ACF50, anybody have experience to share?):

What should I avoid using Boeshield Rust-Free on? Since Boeshield Rust-Free is acidic, you need to rinse it thoroughly off painted surfaces, neutralizing it with soap and water.
p.p.s from http://www.gbbikers.co.uk/gbb/index.php?topic=30403.30;wap2 (if it cleans after a wash, is it only good for winterising?):

otherwise - if you put it on then wash it off. then yes - you'll need to reapply. but why bother?? if you can cope with washing the bike after every single ride in salty conditions then you don't need to use it.
I'm completely confused :) and need some sleep
 
Thanks for expalining the electrical info better then I ever could.

Mig21- Rust Free and T9 are two seperate products, Rust Free removes rust while T9 prevents rust.

In my experience with T9 on my jet ski and bike, I have never experienced any electrical issues. I used it as a fogging spray on the jet ski and as a lubricant on bikes.
 
I just noticed some rust on the back of my pipes, and am a bit freaked out. I have to get one of these.

I don't want to freak you out even more, but rust on the outside is an indication of much more of the same on the inside. I hope I'm wrong, but I don't think that pipe is going to hold much longer no matter what you do to it. If you insist, spray ACF-50 all over the inside of the cold pipe and let it stay for a couple of days. Be prepared to smell it burning when you start up next time.

I also have to get some Mother's Chrome Polish, but I guess that doesn't do anything for rust. I'm thinking of using that on the chrome and T9 on the insides, or should I use T9 on everything?

I'd forget about the polish, it's a waste of time in this case, IMO.

I read on some places that this stuff stays sticky. Vlad - did your test piece of metal dry out completely?

I have no experience with Boeshield (yet :) ). I didn't pay much attention to the stickiness property during my test, but I'd say ACF-50 is no stickier than WD-40. After a couple of months of exposure to street and construction dust the ACF-50 specimen was no more covered with it than others.

p.s. from http://www.theruststore.com/Boeshield-FAQs-W53C2.aspx (this sounds much less appealing than ACF50, anybody have experience to share?):

This is the Boeshield Rust Free FAQ, and that's a different chemical than Boeshield T9.

p.p.s from http://www.gbbikers.co.uk/gbb/index.php?topic=30403.30;wap2 (if it cleans after a wash, is it only good for winterising?):

There's washing and there's Washing :). I think it's sufficient to say that ACF-50 would probably resist washing off better than most other protectants. Bitumen and similar heavy duty protection doesn't count because it's too narrowly focused and lack any lubricating properties.

I'm completely confused :) and need some sleep

Hope this helps, now go get some sleep :). Seriously, dont over-think it and don't be afraid to experiment a little. What's the worst that can happen?
 
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Well, I just got me a can of Boeshield T-9. I'm now looking for test subjects in form of unpainted pieces of iron and aluminum. Ideally they should be cut from the same stock to make sure they are uniform. I'll find something eventually, but ideas and suggestions are appreciated.

BTW, that Lee Valley is an amazing store, well worth visiting even if one is not buying anything.
 

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