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NEW RIDERS/refresher

Hello everyone!
Also if let's say I ride the bike to mechanic to get it certified and cops pull me over what happens? (i have no insurance) Would they understand that I'm only taking it to mechanic and not really riding or they'd still fine me?

Would they understand? Oh yes they wold totally understand - understand how to make you sorry you ever looked at your ride! The no insurance fine is $5k to start, the failing to register change of ownership and no plates and tow bill to get you off the side of the road.... It's just reality so know your limits and play within it. It's dangerous to count on someone else giving you a break.
 
Great review.

I'd like to know more about the gear though. What's the difference between a jacket and a back protector? I though most jackets had this built in?

Not unless you buy a real high-end jacket... $5000+... (grin)

Leathal
 
Nice Review. Just one question: you mention not to brake in a corner, which is logical. However, if you are coming into a corner too fast (beginner mistake) and think you may go of the road; is it better to use the front brake or the rear?
 
Nice Review. Just one question: you mention not to brake in a corner, which is logical. However, if you are coming into a corner too fast (beginner mistake) and think you may go of the road; is it better to use the front brake or the rear?

good question-
This can be a bit tricky especially for someone new.
If you are carrying that much speed then what I WOULD DO is look at the corner setup and brake as much as I can (front brakes, shave the speed off), lean over further than normal to pull the bike into the corner. I have ridden the front brakes partly through a corner from the same situation BUT I knew the bike would want to "stand up" therefore I compensated by shifting my weight to the side of the turn and pulled the bike down with me even further.

If you are carrying that much speed at least you will hopefully low side the bike. If I can't make that turn then my next goal is to low side the bike.

As I mentioned, that's what I would do...also the above info I don't think a new person would be comfortable doing and probably does not know all the things involved. The mindset and knowledge will not come together so quickly in that moment.

Just go SLOW...practice your technique, speed is a natural result of proper technique...it rarely if ever works the other way around.

LOOK,LEAN, BELIEVE.
 
LOOK,LEAN, BELIEVE.

You're soo deep D! I never new that about you.

So since your 250 only has one rotor on the front, does that mean you can only execute your senerio in one direction since it will pull opposite??
 
Nice Review. Just one question: you mention not to brake in a corner, which is logical. However, if you are coming into a corner too fast (beginner mistake) and think you may go of the road; is it better to use the front brake or the rear?


similar question. where i work, the driveway into our parking lot is actually on a signifcant bend on a busy thoroughfare.
so i have to slow down and brake, right? during the turn so i can make an even sharper turn into our driveway.

or how about when exiting the highway sometime the exits are curvy and you have to brake to slow down, right?:confused::confused:

i'm hoping they explain this @ rider training.
 
It is okay to GENTLY use the FRONT brakes to gently slow down during a gentle curve (they teach this at Humber).

It is NOT safe to brake hard during a curve at speed, as this will likely lead to a crash. Applying too much rear brake while decelerating AND beginning to lean over to enter a corner will lead to a crash because while you are decelerating, there is less weight on the rear tire. Too much braking under this condition will cause the rear tire to lock up and slide. Unless you are a very advanced rider, it is not advisable to use rear brake while entering a corner (a technique called trail braking -- see below)

The ideal is to do all your significant braking before even entering a corner, and then negotiating the corner by modulating the throttle and your lean angle. For this reason it is very important that you are familiar with a corner before trying to take it fast. Start familiarizing yourself with a corner gradually (at slower speeds, progressively trying it a little faster, and a little faster each time), so that there is lots of room for error and correction.

Realizing too late that a corner you've rushed into is tightening far quicker than you can lean the bike (that is, the curve is turning sharper than you can turn your bike) is a very, very bad thing and should be avoided at all costs. Essentially, if you find yourself in this situation, it is already too late. In this circumstance the only option is to look for a safe run-off (not likely to exist unless you are at a racetrack), stand the bike up and pray that you can keep it up as you go "cross country". Any sudden steering inputs or braking while you are going "cross country" will likely lead to loss of control. Stand on your pegs to help absorb the bumps.

But most likely, there will be nowhere to safely run off (due to ditches, fences, oncoming traffic, etc). All you can do in this circumstance is look through the corner, and lean harder into the corner (push-steer harder), and pray that you have enough traction to not low-side (fall over on your side). Leaning hard into corners at speed is an advanced skill and should only really be practiced in earnest at a racetrack under qualified instruction.
Tire technology these days is incredible. With luck, you will not be going so fast as to overcome the tires ability to grip the road during the leaning, and you will make it through the corner.

Racers do what's call "trail braking". In trail braking, you are still braking during the initial part of the curve. This is possible because as the motorcycle is progressively leaning over, there is still enough traction to allow some braking which is progressively decreased as the bike leans harder into the corner. Imagine this equation:
(grip for braking) + (grip for cornering) cannot be greater than the maximum traction available.

if all your traction is used up for cornering, even a little brake tap will cause loss of grip and a crash. Knowing how much traction you have for a particular corner at a particular speed for a particular tire pressure, for a particular temperature day only comes with experience.

Hope that helps.


similar question. where i work, the driveway into our parking lot is actually on a signifcant bend on a busy thoroughfare.
so i have to slow down and brake, right? during the turn so i can make an even sharper turn into our driveway.

or how about when exiting the highway sometime the exits are curvy and you have to brake to slow down, right?:confused::confused:

i'm hoping they explain this @ rider training.
 
Hey!

I'm a beginner looking to buy my first bike. I'm looking at private ads on website and being a beginner I don't really know much ab out bikes so I'm scared about purchasing one! I noticed you said you can pay a reputable shop to inspect one? Do you recommend any in the downtown Toronto area? How does it work? Cost?

THANKS!
 
this is helpful information. from the sounds of it, i might be spending more on gear than the cost of my first bike.
someone mentioned a jacket for $5000?:confused:

nope.
You should look for used gear, you can find some really good deals on this site.

budget for $1000. for a Good Helmet, Jacket and Pants atleast.
Gloves are cheaper compared to rest, around $50 for a good pair.
boots - depending on what kind of riding you are dooing, also depending on how much walking you are doing.

I have a pair of SHIFT HAVOC pants and wear my usualy ankle high leather boots. more of a street setup.
 
Speaking from experience I strongly disagree. First, what are stock settings and how can one ensure that their bike is set up to these settings? Second, there is more than enough adjustability, at least among SS bikes, that can lead to great instability if not set up correctly.

RE:Suspension.....Unless you are majorly underweight or overweight you are not going to benfit well enough from a suspension alteration to even bother. Unless of course you are an expert rider and are seeking more performance from your bike. The R&D that goes into all these current motorcycles makes them suitable for any rider from the get go, barring the above mentioned few. Leave the suspension alone, if you can't ride like Nickey Haden, stock settings and other performance will do fine.
 
Re: New Riders tips-Buying/Insurance/Gear/Riding

Keep in mind the insurance coverage noted above is a good thing, but if you are financing the bike, the lender will require you to have full coverage, and they have their own min/max of deductables.
 
I'm a new rider picking up a new bike 09 Ninja 250. Im pretty small Im 5'5 weighing 120lbs how do I know what to adjust in my suspension? Since i dont even know what style i have sort of speak should i bring it in to mechanic to change the settings, or is there some good articals for me to read reguarding this, or is the stock settings ok for my weight (im thinking im too light).
 
hey Im a newb at this so excuse the dumb question you guys mentioned a back protector and i ve seen a guy wearing only that downtown is this becuase its doesnt fit under the jacket or because hes a "pro"? And is the padding in the jacket u buy not good enough? finally Im thinking of getting a 09 Hyosung gt 250r any feed back on this bike???
 
nope.
You should look for used gear, you can find some really good deals on this site.

budget for $1000. for a Good Helmet, Jacket and Pants atleast.
Gloves are cheaper compared to rest, around $50 for a good pair.
boots - depending on what kind of riding you are dooing, also depending on how much walking you are doing.

I have a pair of SHIFT HAVOC pants and wear my usualy ankle high leather boots. more of a street setup.

Drive to Guelph, there is a huge store with prices competing US internet stores
Royal distributing or something.

jacket - 150/200 and up
Joe Rocket pants - 150-200
cool gloves - 70
Icon helmet - 170
hiking boots in wallmart for ~50
plus taxes
And you are ready to go...
 
Re: New Riders tips-Buying/Insurance/Gear/Riding

Thanks for the info!!!
 
THIS!!:
I'm a new rider picking up a new bike 09 Ninja 250. Im pretty small Im 5'5 weighing 120lbs how do I know what to adjust in my suspension? Since i dont even know what style i have sort of speak should i bring it in to mechanic to change the settings, or is there some good articals for me to read reguarding this, or is the stock settings ok for my weight (im thinking im too light).

I'm somewhere along the same with this guy, weighing little more, tippy toe a little to stand up the bike at full stop. Thought about if lowering the bike will help me have an easier time stopping and controlling the bike. someone mentioned earlier there are great articles about adjusting suspension and so on, anyone care share?
thanks
 
great info here.

I am a newbie and wanted to know how do I check what size of helmet would I fit in? I mean is there a way to measure around my head or do i really have to try it on (do they have different helmet sizes that you can try on before purchasing? :confused: )

Proper way to measure your head is across the center of your forehead and behind your ears. then compare to the sizing chart on the helmets fact sheet/box/specs etc...
 
Recommend watching these videos at start of the season:
(Skip the helmet selection part if u want)
There are other videos on the 'stages' he talks about (white, yellow,orange and brown)and other tips
More in-depth..on emergency situation.
 

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