Reg rectifiers | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Reg rectifiers

Some of those other concepts like the speed of your belt drive relating to the speed of your crankshaft is actually part right, although the technology you are missing -> http://www.eurekamagazine.co.uk/des...ey-improves-internal-combustion-engine/39568/

Which is also somewhat irrelevant if your alternator is connected to one end of the crankshaft and somewhat less relevant considering you are running it off a multi-cylinder engine that has its crank throws staggered.
... and the last thing you want on a serpentine belt drive is stretch or free-play, they need to be tight all the time to maintain their maximum of ~98% efficiency, that's why you want that gizmo in the link given above.
 
...
if the charging system is putting out less current
than the total of all devices on the vehicle
the battery is in a discharge state
and it will die, bigger battery will take longer to do this

So did Honda install an inadequate alternator, rectifier and regulator on that bike? or are the owners adding extra loads that are exceeding the system? or is your battery not taking a charge like it did when it was still good?

You know what shorts out a lead acid battery and gives it a higher resistance <- battery sulfation, (recognized by that whitish sludge that accumulates mostly in the bottom of the battery acid)
 
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people have found a workaround
I like it

would prefer to have an electromagnetic fielded alternator on every bike
but it's not feasible on most

if your bike is a 900 lb land-yacht
with a place to mount and drive an external alternator
you can think of doing it

don't know why you have such a problem with this
 
"The starter does not turn over the motor fast enough for the alternator to put much of a load on the starter."
:/ according to physics the highest loads on the starter motor should be realized the moment you first try to get things moving from a dead stop,
that's why a lot of ac motors add a capacitor start.

Capacitor <- stores energy for when you need it the most, kinda like a special type of battery, very useful for smoothing out (regulating) your power supply.

"
don't know why you have such a problem with this" um, I'm not the one having electrical problems. In fact, you added commutator brushes and a rubber drive belt to yours so your bike is going to need parts and service before mine.
 
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if you're bike is sitting there with a dead stator
it needs maintenance now

some inventive people have found away around taking the engine out
don't like it? don't see anywhere suggesting it's mandatory
 
:| Even if that was correct, which it isn't, all you have accomplished is to increase the load through the rectifier circuit and give it more heat to dissipate not less.

So where does the excess power from the stator go?
 
an alternator with electromagnets does not produce excess voltage
it's output is not dependent on RPM
the output is matched to the load by the voltage regulator using variable field
nothing to dump off

a permanent magnet stator system can make excess voltage
it's output is completely dependent on RPM
if load is less than stator output
excess current is dumped off to ground through a resistor
kind of a good idea, the alternative is a fire
the resistor gets hot, that is it's job, heat is dumped off through a sink
this heat is what causes the RR unit to fail frequently on some bikes

here it is in pictures, to make it sparklingly clear
one system has a toaster, can you see it?
the other one doesn't need a toaster ~ variable field

http://[img]https://i.imgur.com/M23Yq3L.gif[/img]

http://[img]https://i.imgur.com/Y9pB8Qj.jpg[/img]
 
Real live Honda three phase alternator with permanent magnets: Where's my toaster?

Schematic1.jpg
 
If I struggled with schematics then I would never have been able to repair non-contact tonometers and objective auto refractors for a living, the service manuals for one of those machines required over a hundred pages of complex schematics.
& you pointed to the regulator/rectifier, good luck making toast with a zener diode.

What you showed is not incorrect, it just isn't the only way to accomplish the task.

Hopefully our friend noobie48 is picking up some knowledge from all this.
 
I think NB48 was doing fine

but you still didn't answer his question:

where does the excess current go, in a permanent magnet stator charging system?
 
good grief :banghead:
Well first off you are the one that said there will be excess current generated:
an alternator variable field via controllable electromagnets is a far superior system
to a permanent magnet stator that has to have it's excess current dumped off by a heat sync
Secondly the stator on these bikes is the coil pack and not the permanat magnet which is the spinning part
Thirdly it's a voltage regulator and not a current regulator
and lastly you seem bent on making this a debate thread and already told him it goes to the toaster, so since my bike has no toaster it must go to my spark plug and a dare you to prove otherwise.
 
okay

you waded in here telling everyone they were wrong
condescension while being dead wrong yourself is not a flattering look

only reason I've bothered to reply is so others won't be lead astray
by your errant understanding of how this system works

and now your stator current goes to the spark plugs???
what happens to the current when there is no plug ready for it??

hint: find your toaster
post 31 will give you ideas what it may look like

okay brother
I'm out
 
Java, give it a break, in the very first post the op thought his new bike doesn't even "rely on reg recs"
As for the plug not being connected :/ look at the diagrams again, the red wire goes straight from the regulator to the primary coil and that is displayed in the exact same format on both yours and my schematic diagrams, a coil with straight lines next to it.
75861e41968a9a5b16763516cf862061.gif
 
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photo3.gif


IMG_18353.JPG
 
good grief :banghead:
Well first off you are the one that said there will be excess current generated:

Secondly the stator on these bikes is the coil pack and not the permanat magnet which is the spinning part
Thirdly it's a voltage regulator and not a current regulator
and lastly you seem bent on making this a debate thread and already told him it goes to the toaster, so since my bike has no toaster it must go to my spark plug and a dare you to prove otherwise.

First off: In a "shunt" regulated system there is in fact "excess" current produced, which the regulator "shunts" to ground. It is how the system functions.

Current is voltage times amperage... so YEAH it is a current regulator. if it regulates the voltage, it regulates the amperage output too. Ohm's law.

... and someone said that the output of an alternator is not affected by the RPM of the system. That too is incorrect. More RPM = more magnets traveling past more windings =more power (to a point) simple physics.
...oh and a generator regulator is not the same as a alternator regulator. It's been a while, but the way I remember it a generator regulator works on amperage and lets the voltage follow... which is why we used to drive around with our headlights on all the time , to lower the voltage, so we wouldn't cook our batteries. Yeah I'm that old.

But please do keep it up. Cheap entertainment.
 
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In a rotating system, stator means stationary.
You can have stationary magnets and a rotating winding. It'll work just fine.
It's just cheaper and easier to make the magnets rotate. I think Leece/Neville made an alternator with rotating windings.
 
Sorry if this is a bit of a thread hijack. Mods feel free to move or delete.

I have a real Shindengen FH020AA. It’s still a shunt but it uses modern electronics so not something that was developed in the 60’s. I bought it for a GPZ550 but ended up using a SH847 so it’s brand new never installed.

My son is restoring a CB350 and the charging system is single phase, 2 wire, permanent magnets. Is it possible to use the FH020AA with it just by connecting up the 2 wires. It references doing it on the internet but I can’t find anything definite. It would be much better that the 1960’s separate RR components that came with it.

Thanks
 

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