Machine shop to make a couple of spacers. | GTAMotorcycle.com

Machine shop to make a couple of spacers.

C

Clem

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I'm into the home stretch with my winter project... already... LOL

I'm replacing the standard cast wheels (because new ones came with the project and look much nicer) with a set of spoked rims and since the new front hub is off a Kawasaki I need a to get a new set of spacers made.

They need to be a little longer than the standard ones and I'm also ditching the speedo drive (as I installed an electronic speedo) but the axle diameter is exactly the same - so no bearing changes. The hub just needs to be centred between the forks. I already have a brake caliper mounting bracket for the new set up so I'm good there. Alloy spacers are fine.

Does anyone know of a machine shop in the GTA that can knock out a set?

The rear wheel is actually a bolt in so that's the easy bit, although I will need to space the drive sprocket out 0.8 mm from the engine.

Once this is done its off to Powder Coat for the frame and chassis pieces and then final assembly

Thanks in Advance
 
I assume you know the exact specifications and dimensions that you need. I would strongly suggest that you attempt to find something that already exists in the world. Then if you come up dry, try the prototyping route, as that's not going to be nearly as cheap as one would think a simple spacer should be.
 
High school machine shop, or is that a thing of the past?
all you need is access to a small metal turning lathe for a while and a little bit of bar or tube stock in aluminum or brass,
and yes, very exact dimensions in metric measure.
 
Most important thing.You need to supply the EXACT dimensions to whoever does this for you.Tolerance will probably be to within 0.0254mm.
 
Thanks All.

Thanks Bitzz, I may just take you up on that. Yes, Yamaha Forks, Kawasaki Hub.

I'll be running sealed bearings so probably won't use the seals so the spacers could be a lot thicker than normal. I need to mount the hub and take measurements. I have a bore gauge that I could possibly get in between the fork leg and bearing once the hub is centred. The forks them selves will be fairly ridged as I can bolt them into the triple clamps and then bolt on the fork brace to get a good measurement

I also ran the fork tubes between 2 V blocks with a dial gauge and they are both about 2 thousands out so I think its a good starting point.
 
If you're not using the stock seals use a "Z" bearing.
The spacers butt against the bearing (this is tres important) and the seals ride on the spacers... so NO the spacers will NOT be a lot thicker. The difference in length of spacers will be dictated by the difference in width of hubs.

I don't like the plan with a bore gauge. How are you going to center the hub...by eye?

Get distance between faces on forks minus the distance across the hub at the bearings divided by 2 will give you spacer sizes(assuming the hub is symmetrical).
or
Measure the stock hub with stock spacers to get your starting dimension.

Have you built the wheel yet? It would be a LOT easier to use a Yamaha wheel.
I have Yamaha spoke hubs, or complete wire wheels, for sale if you would rather. I have magnesium TZ hubs if you want to go all out, and spend your children's inheritance, on this.
 
bitzz said:
If you're not using the stock seals use a "Z" bearing.
The spacers butt against the bearing (this is tres important) and the seals ride on the spacers... so NO the spacers will NOT be a lot thicker. The difference in length of spacers will be dictated by the difference in width of hubs.

I don't like the plan with a bore gauge. How are you going to center the hub...by eye?

Get distance between faces on forks minus the distance across the hub at the bearings divided by 2 will give you spacer sizes(assuming the hub is symmetrical).
or
Measure the stock hub with stock spacers to get your starting dimension.

Have you built the wheel yet? It would be a LOT easier to use a Yamaha wheel.
I have Yamaha spoke hubs, or complete wire wheels, for sale if you would rather. I have magnesium TZ hubs if you want to go all out, and spend your children's inheritance, on this.
Click to expand...

Yes, The wheel is built. Front and rear came with the project. Its apparently a common swap as the back is a bolt in.

I've only done this once before and then I used a paid of inside dividers to center the wheel in the forks. I then used the dividers to measure between the bearing and fork (measuring in line with the center of the fork) and took a reading with a micrometer. There was a guy in the guelph area that used to do custom engineering and asked me to measure this way when he made a set of spacers for me some some years ago . Thoughts?

The bore gauge is too big to fit. Unfortunately the hub is not symmetrical... Grrrrrr!!!

Ha, Ha. My Kids inheritance is already long gone... LoL
 
I hate asymmetrical hubs. Its much worse with old drum brake systems as those things always had a big piece sticking out from the backing plate. I just did spacers for a CB77 hub in a CB350 with XS650 forks

For asymmetrical hubs (particularly if you throw in that they may be conical or other factors) I normally center the RIM, assuming I'm confident that the wheel was built correctly, I then use inside dividers to measure from the bearing to the fork leg vertical centers and read off the dimensions on a micrometer (like the guy in Guelph - I'm assuming its Rich Biggs)

I also like to make up a set from Schedule 80 PVC just to check before tearing into the metal.

If you are running wider spacers without the seals I always like to put a little lip up against the bearing surface as it removes the possibility of tearing up the rubber seal on the bearing.

If you get the measurements I'm sure Bitzz could easily whip you up a set
 
There's a nice little metal turning lathe for sale in Grimsby for five and a half ;)
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