New battery did not solve my issue... I need help! | GTAMotorcycle.com

New battery did not solve my issue... I need help!

arogal

Well-known member
Was riding on the highway Friday night and my entire cluster including the rpm tack completely went out but bike was still running. My turn signals and headlight stopped working also. Made a stop and the bike wouldn't even turn so I got someone to give me a push, popped the clutch and it fired up.... Stalled as soon as I got home while getting out of 1st gear (2 min ride).
Bought a new YUASA battery and she fired up like a charm (after a full charge over night on the new battery).
Went for a ride this afternoon and bike ran great for about 45km.... Then darn, same exact thing hapenned, no power to any of the electronics but the bike was running off the stator. Bike finally died on me, I was in the middle of the boonies, cell phone died, and a thunderstorm rolled in. Couldn't have been any worse... I was in a serious pickle.
Ended up using someones phone to call a buddy and I had a very very sketchy strapped down bike from Milton to burly... Can't believe we made it back with 2 straps.
Took my brand new battery out and threw it on the tender, she was bone dead again.
Now to my questions.
1. What could be the issue here? My stator was replaced last year about 9000kms ago. That's the first thing that comes to mind as it stalled out on me after the battery went. But shouldn't they last longer than that? I can replace the stator myself, but I'm almost leaning towards a mechanic as I don't want to purchase something I don't need (like my battery).
I am getting a volt meter from work tomorrow. Going to test fully charged battery with bike off (should be around 11-12), and then again with bike running (should be around 13-14).
What do you guys think, I'm a bit stumped here and don't want to always worry that my bikes gunna hit the schit while riding.
2. . Is my new battery ok saying how its acid and is bone dry? I'm fully charging her again as I'm typing this.
Thank you
 
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if the new battery was acid filled and in a short time went dry
I'd suggest overcharging is the issue, rectifier-regulator issue

refill with distilled water and charge
do not add more acid if it had been full
 
if the new battery was acid filled and in a short time went dry
I'd suggest overcharging is the issue, rectifier-regulator issue

refill with distilled water and charge
do not add more acid if it had been full

It was a YUASA. Picked it up from Royal yesterday, poured the acid in it, let it sit for 2hours then let it charge over night on a battery tender Jr. Don't think it was an over charging issue.
I think the issue revolves around something that is charging the battery. Ugh! Better to happen now then beginning of season tho!
 
A bad regulator/rectifier can drain a battery in a short period of time.
 
dont shoot the parts cannon at it.
test out out the system and figure out what part of the electric/charging system is failing.

what bike is it ?
 
It was a YUASA. Picked it up from Royal yesterday, poured the acid in it, let it sit for 2hours then let it charge over night on a battery tender Jr. Don't think it was an over charging issue.
I think the issue revolves around something that is charging the battery. Ugh! Better to happen now then beginning of season tho!

In one post you say the battery is bone dead.
In a later post you say it is bone dry.

Is the battery fluid at the correct level in each cell? If not, you need to add distilled water so the fluid is between the min and max level for each cell.

Once this is done, then you can put it on the tender.

If you put it on the tender with the battery under filled, you are destroying the battery and creating a dangerous situation. Unplug it immediately.


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What is the voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running at around 2500 rpm and at 5000 rpm? (Boost the battery if you have to, in order to get it started, then disconnect the booster cables and make these measurements.

If it is below 13.5 volts or above 15.3 volts, you have a charging system issue.

This test should have been done before buying a new battery, because as you are finding out, a fault somewhere else in the system will ruin a new battery in short order if the other fault isn't fixed.
 
dont shoot the parts cannon at it.
test out out the system and figure out what part of the electric/charging system is failing.

what bike is it ?

It is a 2009 zx6r. Both stator and rectefiar were replaced last year (talked to previous owner on phone this evening).
I am going to test tomorrow both before and after the bike has been fired up!
 
It is a 2009 zx6r. Both stator and rectefiar were replaced last year (talked to previous owner on phone this evening).
I am going to test tomorrow both before and after the bike has been fired up!

Just because a part is new doesn't mean it can't fail. Whatever caused the stator to fail the last time might still be present (overheating, etc.)
 
There are lots of cheap craptastic made in China stators/RR on eBay that only lasts a year....even Rick's can be hit or miss.

-Check voltage under load
-Check stator pins to see if any are shorted to ground
-You can also check stator output when bike is on
-Check RR for burnt diodes
-If either/both is toast, check integrity of wiring for burn/broken connectors or frayed insulator before replacing anything!
-Also make sure there are no obstructions to RR cooling and Oil level is sound.

When my stator crippled (running on 2 phases) the bike still ran but couldn't charge the battery, the load was enough to kill the battery to the point were it couldn't start the next time.
 
[video=youtube_share;0bN9sHL-hjs]https://youtu.be/0bN9sHL-hjs[/video]


The regulator/rectifier example in that video is pretty old and uses a mechanical regulator.
Modern R/Rs don't look like that. The modern regulator is electronic and "potted" or sealed in goo and you can't get at them. The first R/R he picks up in that video goes on a 1978 GS1000 (and many more 40 year old Suzukis) and it is entirely electronic.

I have fixed thousands of R/Rs over the years and my advice is if you can buy a replacement: DO SO.
Some of the best R/Rs are found on Hondas.

For the OP: Go back and read the last line in my post in your other thread about this. It will save you valuable beer drinking time and monies.
 
The regulator/rectifier example in that video is pretty old and uses a mechanical regulator.
Modern R/Rs don't look like that. The modern regulator is electronic and "potted" or sealed in goo and you can't get at them. The first R/R he picks up in that video goes on a 1978 GS1000 (and many more 40 year old Suzukis) and it is entirely electronic.

I have fixed thousands of R/Rs over the years and my advice is if you can buy a replacement: DO SO.
Some of the best R/Rs are found on Hondas.

For the OP: Go back and read the last line in my post in your other thread about this. It will save you valuable beer drinking time and monies.
My battery reached a full charge late last night. I will test the battery, and then again under load between 2000-3500rpm. See what volts it reads.
I thought I'd just swap out the Stator, but I am thinking of just dropping the bike off at Burly Cycle. I will be able to make it there fine with my current situation as its only 5kms from my house. Already purchased a battery that wasn't necessary, so I don't want to play the guessing game any more.
I do enjoy my beer drinking time and monies. So I will take your advice to take it to someone that knows what they are doing like you said in previous post. No idea what the cost of labour for an issue would be for this. Im thinking if it is a Stator/Rectifier issue I'll be looking at $6-$700 for parts and labour :mad:
I'll keep you guys posted on the readings later tonight.
 
Here are basic steps that you can do yourself before taking it to the dealer.

Check the DC charging voltage at the battery terminals with the engine running at various speeds. 13.5 - 15.3 volts? Good. Charging system OK. End.

Not good? Stop engine, unplug the regulator. Note that there are 3 wires the same colour leading to the plug (generally white or yellow). Those are the 3-phase AC inputs to the regulator - the output wires from the stator (alternator). Measure resistance between pairs of these wires (should all be the same and quite low, <1 ohm) and measure resistance between any of these wires and ground (should be infinity, open-circuit). Also check continuity between the "hot" DC wire out of the regulator (usually red) to the positive battery terminal, i.e. with the regulator unplugged, there should be +12 at that hot terminal of the connector plug. Make sure the regulator is securely grounded. Some of them have a wired ground (check continuity between that terminal in the plug and battery negative), some of them are grounded through the chassis (same, but between regulator housing and battery negative).

If you identify an open circuit or a short-to-ground, first inspect the wiring between that plug and the stator for issues (rubbed-through insulation, broken wires, unplugged terminals inside the plug, etc) or between the plug and the battery for issues.

If no fault is found with the wiring, set your meter to measure AC voltage on a scale approximately 100 volts. Start the engine and measure AC voltage through the same pairs identified above. There should be a healthy AC voltage there. It will vary with engine speed but probably 30 - 100 volts and at a given engine RPM it should be the same across each pair.

If at some point in all this, you identify a broken wire or an unplugged terminal or rubbed through insulation or some other such thing ... fix it.

If you have healthy AC voltage input to the regulator, and the regulator +12 and GND are securely connected to the battery, but not good charging voltage, the regulator/rectifier is bad. Replace it.

If you have a fault with the AC output of the stator, or a short-to-ground in the stator itself or an open-circuit in the stator itself, the stator is bad. Replace it.
 
Here are basic steps that you can do yourself before taking it to the dealer.

Check the DC charging voltage at the battery terminals with the engine running at various speeds. 13.5 - 15.3 volts? Good. Charging system OK. End.

Not good? Stop engine, unplug the regulator. Note that there are 3 wires the same colour leading to the plug (generally white or yellow). Those are the 3-phase AC inputs to the regulator - the output wires from the stator (alternator). Measure resistance between pairs of these wires (should all be the same and quite low, <1 ohm) and measure resistance between any of these wires and ground (should be infinity, open-circuit). Also check continuity between the "hot" DC wire out of the regulator (usually red) to the positive battery terminal, i.e. with the regulator unplugged, there should be +12 at that hot terminal of the connector plug. Make sure the regulator is securely grounded. Some of them have a wired ground (check continuity between that terminal in the plug and battery negative), some of them are grounded through the chassis (same, but between regulator housing and battery negative).

If you identify an open circuit or a short-to-ground, first inspect the wiring between that plug and the stator for issues (rubbed-through insulation, broken wires, unplugged terminals inside the plug, etc) or between the plug and the battery for issues.

If no fault is found with the wiring, set your meter to measure AC voltage on a scale approximately 100 volts. Start the engine and measure AC voltage through the same pairs identified above. There should be a healthy AC voltage there. It will vary with engine speed but probably 30 - 100 volts and at a given engine RPM it should be the same across each pair.

If at some point in all this, you identify a broken wire or an unplugged terminal or rubbed through insulation or some other such thing ... fix it.

If you have healthy AC voltage input to the regulator, and the regulator +12 and GND are securely connected to the battery, but not good charging voltage, the regulator/rectifier is bad. Replace it.

If you have a fault with the AC output of the stator, or a short-to-ground in the stator itself or an open-circuit in the stator itself, the stator is bad. Replace it.
Very detailed write up there Brian. I am not too too mechanically inclined when it comes to electrical, but my friend is an electrician for CN rail. I have sent him the thread and he should be able to give me a hand as he deals with this stuff (not necessarily on a bike) on a daily basis. He has been riding for 10 years and your language you speak in regards to electrical will make perfect sense to him.
This info will definitely save me some money at the shop.
Thanks again and I will keep you guys posted. Your help is all much appreciated!
 
Brian's advice is excellent

if you can get a volt meter across the battery and see excess voltage
safe to say the RR is the culprit and is overcharging the batt----this is where the water went

I can't think of a way a stator could fail and cause overcharge

if you do not see excess charge current, need to carry on with the rest of the TS
 
Battery was reading 13v after sitting all day off the charger, good sign, battery still good. Fired the bike up and revved the RPMs to 5k, dropped down to 12.5v. The volts should rise between 14 and 15, therefore I have concluded the battery isn't getting any juice. Turned bike off with voltmeter still connected to battery, it went up to 13v again. Need to remove fairings to get to stator and rectifier connections which is a PITA on the 09zx6r (easier to take whole front end apart to get upper fairings off)
Probably just going to bring in bike to burly cycle Saturday, it's 5km from house.
Just left battery in bike as it will be fine sitting for another couple days with no use.
 
That sounds like either your rectifier isn't rectifying, or your alternator isn't alternating. :)
 
That sounds like either your rectifier isn't rectifying, or your alternator isn't alternating. :)

Haha good one! I understand that talk LOL!
Ya man, not the end of the world, better now than beginning/mid season. Just want my black beauty back up and running! Fingers crossed it's just a bad ground or connection. Worst case replace one or the other (or both)... Nothing money can't fix right? Just strange because both were replaced last yr.....
Wish I did this before I got a new battery! What can ya do tho.
Thanks again Brian. You have good advice and help alot of people out on this forum, unfortunately I don't have much free time these days, and if I want to make the rest of riding season count I'll take it to a mechanic and get the job done correct and fast (well faster than I could).
 
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