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Rear Axle Bolt Seized
- Thread starter acernec
- Start date
Is the nut on the opposite end seized on the threaded end of the axle so it won't turn (or the whole thing turns and beats up the adjuster block, as shown in the photo), or is the nut on the opposite end successfully removed but the axle is seized inside the wheel?
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Here's what I'd do:
Option 1) Using the nut on the other side, spin the axle until the edges are parallel to the swingarm. Grab a spanner that fits the flatsides of the axle on the chain side, grind off the outer edges of the spanner so it fits in the detents of the swingarm. Ratchet on the brake side, modified spanner on the chain side.
Option 2) Mig weld a flat bar to the chain side of the axle. You can grind it off when extracted.
Hail Mary option: Slightly loosen the chain tensioner bolts, stick a screwdriver between the chain and rear sprocket. Have someone keep the bike pushed forward, this will apply locking tension to the axle and you might be able to loosen off the nut. This risks hurting your sprocket and chain, but if you're doing this to replace them it might be OK.
When you put it back together, place a dab of copper anti-sieze on the axle threads. If I recall, some FZs have an incredibly high torque spec -- over 100 +ft lbs -- under that pressure I'd be replacing the nut ever few times it's removed.
Option 1) Using the nut on the other side, spin the axle until the edges are parallel to the swingarm. Grab a spanner that fits the flatsides of the axle on the chain side, grind off the outer edges of the spanner so it fits in the detents of the swingarm. Ratchet on the brake side, modified spanner on the chain side.
Option 2) Mig weld a flat bar to the chain side of the axle. You can grind it off when extracted.
Hail Mary option: Slightly loosen the chain tensioner bolts, stick a screwdriver between the chain and rear sprocket. Have someone keep the bike pushed forward, this will apply locking tension to the axle and you might be able to loosen off the nut. This risks hurting your sprocket and chain, but if you're doing this to replace them it might be OK.
When you put it back together, place a dab of copper anti-sieze on the axle threads. If I recall, some FZs have an incredibly high torque spec -- over 100 +ft lbs -- under that pressure I'd be replacing the nut ever few times it's removed.
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Had this happen on my 2009 GSXR1K. Still no idea why as it was always tq to spec and always clean but anyways. Had it cut off and replaced axle/nut/blocks.
I second what Mike said. I would probably also try some heat on the nut. Or try partially slotting the nut with a Dremel or a die grinder and then splitting it with a chisel. Shouldn't be a big deal to tig or mig a new flat on the block..
Sent from my SM-G903W using GTAMotorcycle.com mobile app
boyoboy
Well-known member
this^
I think maybe that axle nut was put on with an air gun lol
old school tip for removing frozen nuts/bolts - I have brass rods of varying thickness', with brass rod (punch) at end of axle give it one or two solid hits with a large hammer, repeat at other end. the brass is strong enough to break free the bolt, but not strong enough to damage the bolt/threads.
Brass punches are a great addition to the tool box, especially for working on older bikes. but you do this first b4 even attempting removal.
best luck.
I think maybe that axle nut was put on with an air gun lol
old school tip for removing frozen nuts/bolts - I have brass rods of varying thickness', with brass rod (punch) at end of axle give it one or two solid hits with a large hammer, repeat at other end. the brass is strong enough to break free the bolt, but not strong enough to damage the bolt/threads.
Brass punches are a great addition to the tool box, especially for working on older bikes. but you do this first b4 even attempting removal.
best luck.
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boyoboy
Well-known member
has a good statement on cause of this (brianp)......."When assembled correctly - with the flat correctly lined up in the adjuster block so that the axle properly slides all the way in before tightening the axle nut - the adjuster block will never get chewed up like that in the first place. "
Mad Mike
Well-known member
This happens even when assembled correctly. The torque specs are so high, 108lbs, that the threads on the axle and nut will be distorted, probably tiny bits of thread shrapnel and a touch of galvanic corrosion are freezing the nut stuck. The force needed to release the nut exceeds the sheer strength of the soft aluminum tension adjuster so it fails.
Just a bad design. I think this is evidenced by the fact Yamaha altered the axle bolt on '17, and there is an aftermarket fix for the pre '17 axles.
boyoboy
Well-known member
an aftermarket kit? I hope the op reads this before ordering new parts. good info for the poster.
Yup Same here my L2 1000 did this few months back and still trying understand it but mine did not sieze it just locked up half way while backing off the nut too change the tire and soon it locked up i hit it littoe hard too back off and it just Stripped the nut and threads on the axle . I had my rear tire off and on few times before that with no problem and just like that it locks and strips . I always made sure it was super clean both installing and prior taking off and torqued it too spec 73 flbs . Im thinking it is a weakness in the nuts themselfs cause they are self locking tabs on them ( not the crown style ) like my 06 had that im thinking just bend or something and screws the threads .
makes total sense i wonder if there is aftermarket fix for the gixxers as my L2 1000 did same stupid thing had to hit up ebay in a panic and get one off a total different make model bike which lots interchange .
Mad Mike
Well-known member
The axle and nut should be replaced. You can use a Gilles titanium axle nut (crazy expensive) and a new '16 axle or upgrade to the the axle & nut used on a '17. Yamaha updated the design to eliminate this problem for '17, you need a new axle, nut and adjusters. Also, check the '17 manual, if I recall the torque specs are back to the normal 80-85lb range.
Double check this advice with your Yammie dealer.
Enough people are having trouble that it probably makes sense to clamp the side with the aluminum stop balls tight to the swingarm before attempting to loosen the nut. The added friction should allow you to get the nut off.
The plate mount location changed in '17... hence the new design.
J_F
Guest
light, cheap, doesn't rust
but yeah, there are certainly better materials
edit: never had the issue on my FJ09 - same setup
I'm wondering if it's low usage bikes that have the issue?
I put over 30k on it in 2.5 years = lots of chain adjustments
nut didn't have an opportunity to get seized to the shaft
but yeah, there are certainly better materials
edit: never had the issue on my FJ09 - same setup
I'm wondering if it's low usage bikes that have the issue?
I put over 30k on it in 2.5 years = lots of chain adjustments
nut didn't have an opportunity to get seized to the shaft
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Light weight (in a location that is also unsprung weight), easy to manufacture. When used as per design intent and not grossly overtorqued, there is no problem with it.
On my Kawasaki, the adjuster blocks capture the axle on both sides of the flat, not just one side; that's a doubling of the torque capacity before something lets go.
Happens quite often on new TRS trials bikes.The factory used a very high quality chain on them and they don't require adjustments.The fix is to take the nut off when new,apply anti seize to the axle threads (not recommended for you) and retorque.
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